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  1. #1

    troubleshooting journy on first ski (2012 rxtx aS)

    been lurking and learning over the past few weeks, got a suggestion from nmpeters to post up a thread with results so i'll just start one and go from there. 2012 rxtx aS 260 56 hours at purchase, 60 hrs now. purchased with issue and got a good deal now need to fix and get LEARNED on skis. should be fun, and frustrating.
    edit- here's an attempt at cleaning this post up logically, many thinks to all that have posted and helped, some really great people on here!

    issue- ibr, check engine, battery lights coming on
    codes:
    U0129
    P0563
    P1661
    U16A4
    U16A5
    generally the ibr/cel, and batt trouble lights come on under power, revving to 6k real quick on the trailer gave me 16v at the battery one time i checked, short burst to save carbon ring) need to get ski in water on trailer as suggested and test voltages

    battery is new AutoCraft Gold Powersports Battery, Group Size BTX30L, 385 CCA build date 04/18 purchase date a month or two ago. pretty sure it's an east penn variant aka DEKA battery is always kept topped off with 1.1 amp "genius" agm charger in the garage where ski is parked.


    symptoms:
    was able to ride just fine for a little while jumping waves in the keys one day with oem reg, after market $45 reg gave battery voltage error immediately. after about 30 mins ski cut throttle and kicked to neutral. starts strong runs fine but stuck in neutral no/little throttle, and i mean STUCK in neutral. used ibr override to raise the ibr gate and get idle thrust but would not give me power and i had to idle in from a mile offshore. not fun.

    was able to cruise in eco mode as long as no hard/fast changes in rpm and staying below 6000rpm(as eco mode does) if i stopped for a while and then started going again it would be a crap shoot if it would cruise or do the whole kick to neutral, then immediately clear all codes when rpm's
    dropped back down around 3-4k.ski would make me go off throttle and back on to get power back.

    was able to ride freshwater at the miami airport lakes full power no issues for almost a full tank, sucked up a twig and was idling through the canals for a while and after finally clearing that obstruction got full power back but in sport mode quickly gaining in rpms's i'd get full loss of throttle and batt voltage light, which would self clear as soon as rpm dropped and i cycled the throttle off/back on.



    (new codes i'm not as worried about and can easily fix myself since you can access the tb without removing top deck of aS ski's)- sounds like throttle issue after riding salt and sitting two weeks at dealer untouched, throttle moves you can hear it, maybe leaky ic corroding tb or something hopefully engine is fine, ski was stored on saltwater dock for it's life, covered engine bay is clean but metals like supercharger and mounts have corroded some and lost their black paintjob, driveshaft is rusty which i hear is normal and prop is spotless clean, wire harness connections for the most part look good and some very few fuse connections have the beginnings of corrosion but barely discernible, have not checked buss bars(didn't know what they were at first to check them coming from automotive world that doesn't generally have them in fuse boxes)
    p160E
    P1614
    P1619
    going to clean up throttle mechanism, try and access the ic to pressure test it (damn aS ski no access)and if needed replace with bosch tb and mahle rubber coated metal gasket for $150ish total vs $799 fr seadoo oem throttlebody.
    dealer is looking to clean tb and clear that code so they can continue diagnosing. of course when i showed up the ski had sat 2 weeks and battery had discharged to 11.8volts making it impossible to replicate issue as regulator wouldn't over volt since all it's power was being sucked into the battery. good way to kill a regulator i hear but dealership doesn't seem too competent unfortunately. they just hooked their massive shop battery charger up to give it 13 whatever volts while they connected the canbus and of course the ibr module wouldn't respond at all not even the ibr override. everyone says never to jump or run these on a charger, not sure why the dealership would do that if it can be dangerous to the ski.


    for what it's worth the ibr has always worked flawlessly when it's actually worked, like on the trailer it goes up and down quiet and quick, no issues (ie doesn't seem like a linkage/binding issue. when the codes come on i obviously lose all function and go into limp or worse, forced into neutral.
    Last edited by Wrxkyle; 11-01-2018 at 02:22 PM. Reason: cleaning up my ADHD-esque scatterbrain thoughts


  2. #2
    Holy crap not many gonna read all that.

  3. #3
    There are two things to check if you're getting a battery light:

    1) check all fuses for melting and/or poor contact.
    2) Check the condition of the stator plug. This is a triangle shaped grey connector typically located on the side of the intake manifold. Its very common for the leads to burn up @ the pin/ wire junction.
    3) possible rectifier issue - its pretty rare, but can happen. Check your wiring here, and swap with a known good OEM one if possible.


    Finally, IBR modules are very sensitive to voltage under and overloads. I have seen IBR units get replaced due to a poor stator connection.
    However unlikely, it is possible that you have both a charging issue and also a bad IBR

    I would suggest hoooking a multimeter to the battery, back it into the water and leave it hooked to the trailer. If your issue is @ 6K RPM, rev is to said 6k while still attached to the trailer. you should not see more than ~ 14.7 VDC *over time*. And it goes without saying, your battery should not drop below ~13 VDC during this test either.

    good luck.

    let us know what ended up being at fault!

  4. #4

    Join Date
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    Having owned a '14 RXP-260 used in salt water and serviced at Riva, I can tell you that the electronics on modern Sea-Doos will drive you crazy when they don't work correctly. IMO, nobody can diagnose your issues on the internet. These machines will humble you when you're trying to diagnose them. In one service event I experienced with my '14, an intermittent low oil pressure light was finally eliminated by replacing a major cable assembly (with an approx. cost of $600 in parts alone). This is why I always advise people to never own a PWC that's not covered by the factory warranty.

  5. #5

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    This is just a thought having problems with a 12tx. Check all the buss bars in the fuse box for corrision. I had one and had to change the wiring harness. You may also want to check the connections on the ibr motor. Where the wires plug in, they have been known to corrode.

  6. #6
    gone fishing sucks2bu's Avatar
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    If all else fails and depending on distance from me. I have an extra voltage regulater we can throw on there and see if it solves one of your problems. Plus I know my way around a seadoo wiring harness. I think I have an extra parts harness laying around if you need any buss connectors or anything like that. Im in the Cutler bay area. Good luck.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by sucks2bu View Post
    If all else fails and depending on distance from me. I have an extra voltage regulater we can throw on there and see if it solves one of your problems. Plus I know my way around a seadoo wiring harness. I think I have an extra parts harness laying around if you need any buss connectors or anything like that. Im in the Cutler bay area. Good luck.
    wow thanks that would be great, i'm only an exit away from cutler bay. when i get the ski back from the dealer i may hit you up thanks!

    bus bars i just learned about and will check them, i checked cleaned and gresed every fuse and they were all clean though there was some very minor green corrosion forming on a few of the connectors that i cleaned the best i could with just inserting and removing the fuses a bunch using them as "scrapers" as a temp test while i ordered in carburetor-jet brushes (that are unfortunately just nylon and not steel like i thought) and deoxit. going to clean all major harness connections and go from there, stator plugs at the regulator looked good i didn't see any sign of burning or overheating, i assume there's another plug nearer the stator that i need to check too though right? biggest lamentation getting an aS ski- i'm a diy'er and removing the top deck is not diy friendly compared to other ski's. that and can't use a rack for extra fuel and cooler for fishing/offshore (but i just learned it has an 18.5 gal tank instead of 15.9 so i guess that helps)

    i checked the ibr wire connections and they looked good, i haven't tried unpinning the connectors though to look at them more closely. i wonder if adding a capacitor system like they use on car audio would smooth out the voltage spikes and make the system more reliable. if seadoo would just overbuild all the electronics to make them super reliable they would have killer ski's and a killer reputation. seems like they are just beginning to listen with the new '18 300 supercharger system no maintenance changes. if they can get their ibr and electronics and inter-coolers sorted out they'd really have a huge long term winner on their hands.

    very thankful for the help, feels good to know there are people willing to help reminds me of the old days on the suby/zilvia forums a decade ago before facebook killed them.

    @crash thanks as well, don't know why but i didn't even consider just leaving it on the trailer in the water for testing. makes sense though.

  8. #8
    no problem.

    It sounds like it is time to get intimate with a multi meter, and see what is going on. I would first start at the battery, while the engine is running under a load ( leaving it on the trailer, back into the water) and see what kind of voltage you get.

    From there, you can proceed to the fuse box, to make sure you are getting adequate voltage on the IBR circuits. The buss bars are pretty straight forward, its simply a link that spreads power... rather cheaply, to multiple connections. If they've ever been removed, it is very possible to have one cracked.

    If you find corrosion in a terminal port of the fuse box, or in a connector, here's a cheap trick---> Find a wire bristle brush, and cut a few of the "hairs" off . twist them together, and zip tie, or glue the end. Voila.. a scraper tool. I wouldn't suggest de pinning anything, unless you see excessive corrosion in a terminal or connection.

    Also, if you have an clamp type ammeter, you can check to see how much current draw the IBR motor has. It'll be the fatter wires on the IBR . that should be power in. Let us know what you find, and I can check specs when i get to work ( i'm at a dealership in georgia)

  9. #9
    update- replaced ibr module with a rev7 one (had rev6 and the motor section was pretty rusted.) found a buss bar that was corroded green on one end (the biggest longest bar) and cleaned it up, need to clean up the terminals with that trick but so far so good, now not getting ibr lights on the trailer intermittently. need to get down to the water though.

    also need to pressure test the ic as it could be leaking which could damage the engine and throttle body. just got the new regulator in so going to test with old one first then replace with new one if symptoms continue (i hope not) at 60 hours i didn't replace the bushings when doing the ibr so i'll have to do those at the 100hr mark but so far i'm finally hopeful.

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