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  1. #1

    Advice Please! Slightly hit a rock

    Hello Guys,

    I lost control while riding on the canal and slightly hit a rock on the side of the canal. Paint came off of the hull and I was able to see the fiberglass. I used this epoxy mix to protect the fiberglass and I will sand it and re do it again. I would also like to hear your opinion. What would you do to fix this? Thank you and appreciate your time!

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  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    What model and year is the hull?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What model and year is the hull?
    It is 2014 FX HO

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
    It is 2014 FX HO
    Hull material is NanoXcel?

  5. #5
    Yes. Correct

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SaNGRia View Post
    Yes. Correct
    You have already applied epoxy repair material to the damage area.

    And you plan to sand it smooth and apply another epoxy layer, correct?

    What is your concern?

  7. #7
    I just wanna know am i doing the correct solution on this issue. I never repaired a nanoxcell before. The reason i have had this epoxy mix was when i first got the ski there was 2 tiny scratches on the hull. I never even put this ski on a sand before but this happened unexpectedly and just want to fix it right.

  8. #8
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Yes, you appear to be doing it correctly as far as the products you have, as epoxy-based resins are required for these hull types. The main issue with the Nano hulls is difficulty in totally removing contaminates to insure a long and reliable repair, as these hull composites contain embedded 'waxy' filler which easily gets released thus contaminates the prepared surface as you work the repair site. This may compromise the bond of the repair, so the cleaner the better the bond.
    I also see that you have the 404 thickening filler, yet alternatively (and cheaper $$ ) know that good old fumed-silica works very well as a thickening agent, be it the you have to work upside-down. Just make sure you add fillers AFTER parts A & B are well mixed.
    Finally, I recommend adding some chopped-strand glass fibers to your mix for add strength, reduced cracking if/when the hull flexes. Since this is on the keel and subject to more wear, there are 'other' fillers on the market that can make the resin more abrasion-resistant.

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  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    Yes, you appear to be doing it correctly as far as the products you have, as epoxy-based resins are required for these hull types. The main issue with the Nano hulls is difficulty in totally removing contaminates to insure a long and reliable repair, as these hull composites contain embedded 'waxy' filler which easily gets released thus contaminates the prepared surface as you work the repair site. This may compromise the bond of the repair, so the cleaner the better the bond.
    I also see that you have the 404 thickening filler, yet alternatively (and cheaper $$ ) know that good old fumed-silica works very well as a thickening agent, be it the you have to work upside-down. Just make sure you add fillers AFTER parts A & B are well mixed.
    Finally, I recommend adding some chopped-strand glass fibers to your mix for add strength, reduced cracking if/when the hull flexes. Since this is on the keel and subject to more wear, there are 'other' fillers on the market that can make the resin more abrasion-resistant.
    Thank you so much. Should i dry or wet sand this mix?
    Last edited by SaNGRia; 09-28-2018 at 09:37 AM.

  11. #10
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Nano contamination will be present regardless, so I prefer wet sanding.
    Afterwards, wipe the prep'ed area with a "wax remover" commonly used by many auto-body repair shops (as they might be able to recommend one). Acetone - if you have nothing else as it evaporate too quickly, so I'd stick to one good wipe per rag surface, as the only point here is improving the bondable surface area.

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