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  1. #11
    Myself's Avatar
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    Doesn't matter what I do with the grounds, nothing changes. And ground holds steady at less than 1 ohm while cranking. I was thinking today if it's possible for the starter to be working perfectly fine but passing voltage over to ground BUT after it starts there is no power at the starter at all thus no voltage to jump to ground.


  2. #12

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    just a thought... have you used voltage drop fo check for ground problems... put lead from dvom on starter case, the other lead to battery ground terminal at battery.... voltage should be about .2 dc volts... anything over .5 would indicate a bad ground... just a thought.. ive been there dying on stuff also... you could jump starter with another battery connected to starter only.... to get engine to spin..

  3. #13
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    You stated you had a broken bendix tooth stuck to the magneto. I can only assume it was stuck to the magnet/pick up portion of it. Did it by chance wear a groove in the flywheel?

    Have you tried another CDI and/or magneto?

  4. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Doesn't matter what I do with the grounds, nothing changes. And ground holds steady at less than 1 ohm while cranking. ...
    An ohm meter can not be used to measure resistance in a powered circuit.

    The ohm meter has its own small internal battery that it uses to measure a carefully injected current flow through the meter probes. Any other current or voltage in the circuit being measured will confuse the reading and the number displayed on the meter screen will not be accurate.

    If you want to diagnose for a poor connection in the starter circuit, set the meter to measure DC volts and connect the probes across the section of interest. Putting the meter pobes on the battery negative post (not the cable end, the actual post) and the starter motor case (not a mounting bolt, the actual case) would reveal resistive voltage drop anywhere between the battery negative and the starter motor.

    Now crank the engine. The heavy current flow will induce a voltage drop across each connection and even the heavy cable. The drop should be a small fraction of a volt. Anything larger indicates a problem.

  5. #15
    Myself's Avatar
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    Ok, back on this silly thing. It will usually start right up. While running, if you try to let it idle, it will lose spark and die. Sometimes it will fire right back up, sometimes no spark. Stator swapped into twin ski works just fine. Cdi swapped into twin ski works just fine. Thinking I could possibly have a coil going open but still ohming ok????

    Any other suggestions?

    Also what was the little capacitor doohickey tied in with the cdi from one of these?

  6. #16
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    Does anybody have an idea before I swap out the whole wiring harness???

    I spent about 5 hours on this sob today going over everything again. Even swapped out flywheels today just to see if that would make a difference. Incidentally the 750 and 780 flywheels are exactly the same! After all this I have the same issue.......

    Usually sparks for few revolutions but a weak spark. Then no spark. Sometimes no spark for a few tries then I might get that random few sparks again.

  7. #17
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    Thought I'd torture myself some more today. I just hate being beat but I'm ready to throw in the towel without a solution. Changed starter today thinking maybe shorted out field or something.....notta. Swapped out starter solenoid just for giggles....nothing. Also swapped out the breaker......just because, no go. Tried yet another cdi I have, same. I really don't want to go ripping a stator out of my parts ski but I can't imagine they would both work in the other ski and not this one. I just don't know??????

  8. #18
    She likes the bike. But the ski gets her wet!!!! xlint89's Avatar
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    Sorry, not going through and re-reading everything.

    Is the engine mounted to the engine plate securely? The ground wire is bolted to the engine plate, which is bolted to the engine. That is the ground.

    Try grounding a different location on the engine and see if that helps.

    Is your ground wire good? I've seen one that was corroded and breaking wire strands at the eyelet.

    Fuji coils are all wired in series. Have you tried another set of them? Just in case one is failing.

    Electrical board in good shape? No corrosion on the underside?

    You mentioned the wiring harness. Does it ever look like the battery shorted out to the elec box? That usually does fry the ground wire.

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  10. #19
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Have you tried another battery? I know you have the right voltage but worth a shot?

  11. #20
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    Ground wire is good, even added another one just in case. It's already on an intake stud. Tried another set of coils yesterday. Electrical box and board are nice and clean. Tried several batteries. Actually been twinning with a car battery for all this testing. All wiring looks great. Original failure was rear rod snapped and busted the cases. I replaced it with a 750 and have been fighting it ever since.

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