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  1. #1
    EVN81's Avatar
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    Driveshaft bellow with new larger hat

    Hey guys,

    Installed new bellow with larger hat.
    The idea of this bigger hat is more pressure on the carbon seal.

    But the bellow looks a little too much compressed. Any opinions?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Iíve seen some discussion about this before. All I see this doing is cooking the carbon ring. Following this to see what happened as my 2013 as a small leak as well.

  3. #3

    Driveshaft bellow with new larger hat

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  4. #4
    It got WIFI and touchscreen ! PWCGUY's Avatar
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    It does look too compressed. You need to check engine position with bellows removed and pump installed. Drive shaft should move forward to back ~1/2inch if I remember correctly.

    If your motor is in the correct position the new hat does not burn carbon ring and definitely improves sealing.

  5. #5
    EVN81's Avatar
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    Driveshaft bellow with new larger hat

    Ok guys some additionall info as I share the opinion about how it looks!

    But when start measuring the length it doesnít look too bad.

    New bellow 80mm not installed
    Old bellow 75mm not installed

    New bellow installed 60mm

    So basically the bellow is only 20% shorter under tension.

    Also Iím able to pull the bellow back by hand a little. So itís not caught up.

    Driveshaft play is 8mm (3/8í) so no more room left to go fwd with engine, as the driveshaft is coming too much out of the prop then.

    Also was thinking about the thrustwashers (like unspinning a prop and destroying your engine by the fwd force of driveshaft)

    Alignment is spot on btw
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by EVN81; 09-23-2018 at 04:45 PM.

  6. #6
    Jkmike's Avatar
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    So I ran into this exact same thing when i upgraded my Tophat to the larger and thicker one on my 2010 RXT-X. My bellows looked just as compressed as yours, and so far (about 60hrs) I haven't had any issues. But I have noticed that there does seem to be a lot of carbon dust in the hull. Like I don't have the traditional thin carbon line but rather a very thick line. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that I went with the aftermarket Tophat that is both thicker and wider verses the new OEM one that is just wider. I may change it out over the winter.

    Also, another big thing I have found with this Tophat is that I am not able to remove or install the supercharger without first taking the pump off and wedging the driveshaft down and to the right some. The larger/thicker Tophat manages to just barely catch on the charger when installing or removing it. Now, maybe you won't run into this issue, but if you are having trouble getting your charger back in I would recommend pulling the pump.

  7. #7
    EVN81's Avatar
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    So if you did the 60 hrs I donít have to be afraid for the thrust washers. I started back then with the original OEM hat and there was always some water in the hull. After some time they came out with the wider tophat which I installed. Ran it for > 100 hrs but it leaked from the beginning and I was used to it.
    However with the Ď17 RXT 300 from my mate this one is bone dry from the start (50 hrs).
    Only difference was the newer wider and bigger hat between him and me.
    Thatís why I wanna try this one.
    Jkmike your hull is dry after each ride? The only issue is the carbon dust?

  8. #8
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    I have been using the taller floating ring setup since my sinking a few years ago. My bellows is tighter than yours, with 1/4" +- play. I have zero carbon ring dust after many hours of use. I believe the key to this is a VERY accurate alignment of the engine to the pump.

    I do get some water inside the hull but it is coming from the access panels.

  9. #9
    EVN81's Avatar
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    Ok that makes 2 here, I gonna run it like this and will revert back to this thread in the future.

    I agree with JPT that a perfect alignment is one of the key issues regarding this shaft seal set up of Seadoo.

    As for the driveshaft play I cannot go less (compress even more) as the mounts and their bolts are on the max. aft position in the hull brackets. But I did the pump conversion, so thatís maybe why itís a little different.

  10. #10
    meeper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVN81 View Post
    Ok guys some additionall info as I share the opinion about how it looks!

    But when start measuring the length it doesn’t look too bad.

    New bellow 80mm not installed
    Old bellow 75mm not installed

    New bellow installed 60mm

    So basically the bellow is only 20% shorter under tension.

    Also I’m able to pull the bellow back by hand a little. So it’s not caught up.

    Driveshaft play is 8mm (3/8’) so no more room left to go fwd with engine, as the driveshaft is coming too much out of the prop then.

    Also was thinking about the thrustwashers (like unspinning a prop and destroying your engine by the fwd force of driveshaft)

    Alignment is spot on btw
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is that a centering insert for the alignment tools shaft? If so where did you get it

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