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  1. #1

    anyone know how to remove exhaust on yamaha xlt 1200?

    newbie here , i dont understand how to post in yamaha forum ,, so bear with me,, i have a problem with my ski,,,,,only runs 35mph,,,,,,max rpm 5000,,,compression is 115 116 119,,,,excellent spark, will jump 1 inch gap bright blue and put you down on the ground,,,,,,,so my thinking is carburetors,,,but can access them without cuting into side of the ski,,,,what kind of stupid jap engineered this shit?,,,,,,or impossible to remove exhaust,,,,,i even thought about cutting the top cap off or modifying the body with a electric actuator to access engine since the jap were too damn stupid to consider someone might need to work on it ,,,,but anyway another story,,,,,so is it possible to remove carbs without destroying the ski, removing exhaust ?i dont plan on using the ski im going to put the motor in a jet john project ,, just too damn impossible to work on an engine in that small of compartment, but i would like to have it in one piece enough to go test ride it to make damn sure engine is perfect,thanks in advance


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    I did it by making my own tools. I don't remember exactly what I did, but I remember I had to weld handles onto sockets. Even with that, it took a long time.

  3. #3
    dockwalker's Avatar
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    It is a PIA. Gotta wedge the side away to get at one of the manifold bolts and their underneath too.Gotta turn stinger to get out.Forgot which way.After about 4 times got where I could take it out in 30 min.

  4. #4
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    There is plenty of room in the XLT hull. Once you get the exhaust out the first time you'll think its the easiest thing ever. The Japs are so smart!

  5. #5
    steve45's Avatar
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    Clarification: I made tools to remove the carbs, and it was an XL 1200, not the XLT. Looks like the carbs are mounted differently on yours. However, you might be able to make your own special tools to get it done.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    There is plenty of room in the XLT hull. Once you get the exhaust out the first time you'll think its the easiest thing ever. The Japs are so smart!
    sounds like you have it down ,,,anyway you could show pics of it or video?

  7. #7
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    Got one currently torn down, sorry I dont have pics or video. Separate the stinger. Remove exhaust hose, slide muffler chamber all the way back in the rear hull. Remove the air inlet tube under the seat, it blocks the stinger from removal. Push stinger back, and lift the high end up. Wiggle and twist it to get it to clear the engine bay lip. Rotate it toward the left side of the ski, working it up and out. It is not easy the first time you do it. Also it is easier if you remove the expansion chamber first, or at least push it forward. Gives you extra clearance.

  8. #8
    Myself's Avatar
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    It's really not that bad. Unhook the rear sensor, the wire goes up to a connector on the left side of the e-box. Loosen the clamp on the rubber boot down there. Completely remove the lower pipe mount, it might take some heat and penetrating lube on the short bolt into the pipe. Remove the pipe heat shield and sensor in the chamber if it doesn't already have a D-plate. Remove the 2 front pipe mounts that go into the front of the head. Loosen hose clamps on large rubber exhaust boot and slide it towards the left side. Loosen the inner clamp attached to the rear stinger portion of the pipe. Remove the bolts holding the manifold to the head pipe, you can leave the manifold in place, you'll need various extensions but it's not too bad. Now you can work the front section loose, push it towards the gas tank. Remove the 2 bolts holding the chamber to the cylinders and remove the cooling hose and that part will lift up and towards the left. With a sort of twisting motion it will all come out. FINALLY, you can access the carbs. It would be a great time for the O'side Bill's carb mods and D-plate. Take it slow and pay attention, as previously stated, once you've done it you realize it really was a well thought out design. I mean......have you ever had to pull a Fuji triple from a Polaris SL hull????

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    It's really not that bad. Unhook the rear sensor, the wire goes up to a connector on the left side of the e-box. Loosen the clamp on the rubber boot down there. Completely remove the lower pipe mount, it might take some heat and penetrating lube on the short bolt into the pipe. Remove the pipe heat shield and sensor in the chamber if it doesn't already have a D-plate. Remove the 2 front pipe mounts that go into the front of the head. Loosen hose clamps on large rubber exhaust boot and slide it towards the left side. Loosen the inner clamp attached to the rear stinger portion of the pipe. Remove the bolts holding the manifold to the head pipe, you can leave the manifold in place, you'll need various extensions but it's not too bad. Now you can work the front section loose, push it towards the gas tank. Remove the 2 bolts holding the chamber to the cylinders and remove the cooling hose and that part will lift up and towards the left. With a sort of twisting motion it will all come out. FINALLY, you can access the carbs. It would be a great time for the O'side Bill's carb mods and D-plate. Take it slow and pay attention, as previously stated, once you've done it you realize it really was a well thought out design. I mean......have you ever had to pull a Fuji triple from a Polaris SL hull????

    im confused,,,,,,do i also remove exhaust manifold part hanging over top of the carb?,,looks like you will have to remove it all , ?
    Last edited by jaythefisherman; 09-23-2018 at 11:55 PM.

  10. #10
    Take circled bolts off. Make sure you get the bracket totally off on the bottom of the jpipe. Theres two bolts for a large bracket at base of cylinders I have it circled as well dont for get those. disconnect clamps and sensors. thats about it.
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