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  1. #1

    97 Polaris SLTX 1050 Battery Polarity OOPS and aftermath.

    Hey guys, I am dealing with a (hopefully) unusual issue here that is kicking my butt at the moment. I am working on a Neighbor's 1997 Polaris SLTX with the red 1050 triple and have no spark. I have been through the standard tests that I have found on this and other sites and am running out of ideas.

    The difference on this one is I know (or at least I think I know) what happened to this electrical system. According to the neighbor; he was getting the PWC ready to hit the lake for the first time of the year (3 years ago at this point) and replaced the battery with one with the terminals switched around and due to being up for 30+hours from a crazy work shift, he hooked up the terminals incorrectly and immediately realized his mistake, switched the wires and it would crank but had no spark.

    I got my hands on the machine about 2 weeks ago and started testing according to the great info I found here, and found that the CDI box was bad, and after I removed it, i found that the back side was blown out with burn marks on it! I thought that I had found the issue, and learning about the ignition systems on these having upgrade kits available, I ordered the update kit. Today, I installed the new CDI box and stator, and put the whole thing back together and... Nothing. No spark at all, I may have seen a weak spark on #1 once but no spark to speak of. I did do a bit of testing and the one strange thing I found is that the brown wire that comes from the CDI box that is supposed to have 7-9 volts to supply the stator has like 3.something volts when cranking and jumps to 7.something as I let off of the start switch for a split second. The battery is good, I have tried two of them that were both charged, and both of them have been used in running PWCs in the last week.

    I sure appreciate the help, at the moment I feel pretty used up on the project after putting 8+ hours into it so far and several hundred dollars and to no avail.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Does the Red/Purple wire from the CDI module connect to some other Red/Purple wires or does it connect to an Orange wire/terminal?

    If Orange, hold down the Bilge button. Bilge pump should run. While holding Bilge button, try to start the engine. See if you now have spark.

  3. #3
    casey67's Avatar
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    Polaris ignition wants a very strong battery,"the worked in other pwc test" is not good enough. You need to put a volt meter on the battery while cranking. also voltage while cranking on the red/pur CDI wire.

  4. #4

    Thanks for the replies.

    I tried the red/purple wires from the CDI box being plugged into the other red purple wires first and had nothing, then I found somebody here (two people actually) who said it should be plugged into the fused side of the board where the orange wires go so I tried that as well. Just now with the red/purple from the CDI hooked to the fused board with the orange wires, I tried running the bilge and still had nothing.

    The batteries I have tried are plenty healthy for this, I understand Polaris' picky needs.

  5. #5
    I am getting 10.7 at the red/purple wires while cranking and the same at the battery, that's the lowest it goes. I am getting weak spark at the plugs when I let off of the start switch.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatXJGuy View Post
    I am getting 10.7 at the red/purple wires while cranking and the same at the battery, that's the lowest it goes.

    I am getting weak spark at the plugs when I let off of the start switch.
    Disconnect the ignition kill wire at the CDI. Black/Yellow IIRC.

    Spark when releasing Start button is consistent with marginal battery voltage. 10.7 while cranking is really close to the minimum for the CDI to fire. A really strong battery tends to hold 11.0 volts or higher while cranking.

  7. #7
    I have tried the kill switch wires, you are correct about them being the black/yellow. I'll try more batteries and charge them right before I go. Why would it still be so weak if that were the case?

  8. #8
    Something I thought was strange with the update kit is that the new stator had three missing coils on the core, two next to another and one on the other side, where the original had all cores wrapped. Is that correct? I just feel like I'm missing something but all the wires are matched.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatXJGuy View Post
    Something I thought was strange with the update kit is that the new stator had three missing coils on the core, two next to another and one on the other side, where the original had all cores wrapped. Is that correct?

    I just feel like I'm missing something but all the wires are matched.
    The updated Gen III stator for red engines does have several unused 'fingers'.

    Check that the black wire in the stator cable really is zero ohms to the engine case.

    You disconnected the thin black wire between electrical box and the battery, correct? This is per the update kit instructions.

    Also inspect all the thin black wires inside electrical box. Look for any that may be damaged, disconnected or burned. If there is a black wire spanning between the two halves of the electrical box make sure it is good.

    On some electrical boxes the metal mounting brackets are also part of the ground circuit. Retaining nuts must be tight and black wire ring terminals in place.

    Sometimes the terminal board develops corrosion at the rivets. Sometimes more visible on the back side.

    Double check that each color coded wire is indeed connected to the correctly marked terminal tab. It is possible to accidentally put a wire onto the terminal next to the correct terminal.

    The CDI has a Brown wire with bullet pin that feeds to the stator. Check that there is 8 volts DC on the brown wire when the engine is cranking. That 8 volts powers the Hall Effect sensors in the stator. Which in turn trigger the CDI to fire.

  10. #10
    You got it! The thin black wire from the electrical box to the battery. In this case it was on one of the coolant jacket screws on the heads. I didn't know about that at all, my kit didn't come with instructions. I took that wire off and it runs!!! I'm off to the lake!

    Thank all of you so much! I'll catch ya later!

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