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  1. #11
    steve45's Avatar
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    No connection between the oil pump and exhaust manifold.


  2. #12
    Sorry, I meant the intake manifold. I believe the oil pump connects to the intake, just below the carburator, not directly to the carb.

    Also, how do I tell which card I have? I think it's a CDK 2. Is that correct?

  3. #13
    steve45's Avatar
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    You're right, the oil lines should attach to nipples below the carbs. Carbs should be CDK IIs.

    I would highly recommend genuine repair parts for the carbs. There was a guy on the Yamaha site that spent a week or more trying to sort out a carb problem only to realize that the button on the aftermarket diaphragm was about .040" off, upsetting the mixture adjustment.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    You're right, the oil lines should attach to nipples below the carbs. Carbs should be CDK IIs.

    I would highly recommend genuine repair parts for the carbs. There was a guy on the Yamaha site that spent a week or more trying to sort out a carb problem only to realize that the button on the aftermarket diaphragm was about .040" off, upsetting the mixture adjustment.

    I am trying to find a source for OEM rebuild kit for the carb. Previous owner used a ebay kit and I suspect it may be bad.

  5. #15
    Watcon.com has the kits for $70 each. I figure I need two. Pretty steep for a carb rebuild kit but I guess it is what it is.

  6. #16
    steve45's Avatar
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    Yea, Kawasaki is bad about not making rebuild kits available. They want to sell individual parts.

    Here's a 'secret': about 90% of the time the problem is just trash in the internal filter. You can disassemble the carburetor diaphragm (not the fuel pump diaphragm) and then remove the needle valve assembly. The filter screen is under that. Inspect the diaphragm for holes or splits by holding it up to a light. Be very careful when doing this, do not bend or tear anything.

    I've used aftermarket carb kits for Kawasakis in the past and I remember on one that I spent half a day trying to adjust the lever arm to get it to run right. Hard to do while your standing in the water trying to work on it and not drop any parts into the belly. I suspect it had the problem with the button on the diaphragm being the wrong height.

    That said, those carb parts are ridiculously expensive. You might contact the GreenHulk store and see if they offer any good kits for these carbs.

  7. #17
    It is what it is on the carb kits. 90% of the time a new diaphragm and good cleaning sorts things out. OEM one is like 62 bucks, so the kit watcon sells doesn't look too bad for 70.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by raven007 View Post
    It is what it is on the carb kits. 90% of the time a new diaphragm and good cleaning sorts things out. OEM one is like 62 bucks, so the kit watcon sells doesn't look too bad for 70.
    This is like when I was fixing my snowblower. The official carb kit was $90, a new Chinese carb off eBay was $25 and a new motor from Harbor Freight was $100. Hmmm new engine for $10 more then a carb kits

  9. #19
    I guess I should first determine that it is actually the carb that is causing the issue. Can I use starter fluid to test it out and see if it starts? Anything I should try clear out because of the water that was in the bilge.


    Do you think that the loose oil line could be allowing air to get into the oil pump and then the intake and cause a lean condition?

  10. #20
    Does this ski have a fuel filter? I don't see anything. Figured I should make sure there is fuel. getting to the carb.

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