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  1. #11
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    ... serviced/opened by the end-user to change a bulb.

    ...
    Hang on, is it just the bulb that is being changed again and again, or the entire lamp assembly?

    If just the bulb is being replaced, I suggest replace the entire lamp assembly.

    A bad/corroded/whatever lamp socket can repeatedly mess up new bulbs.

    Install a new LED lamp assembly, marine/boat trailer rated. Sometimes these are labeled 'sealed'.


  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Hang on, is it just the bulb that is being changed again and again, or the entire lamp assembly?

    If just the bulb is being replaced, I suggest replace the entire lamp assembly.

    A bad/corroded/whatever lamp socket can repeatedly mess up new bulbs.

    Install a new LED lamp assembly, marine/boat trailer rated. Sometimes these are labeled 'sealed'.
    I've been changing the entire assembly.

    I'll swap out with LED's and see what happens.

  3. #13
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    Is it possible that when you mount that left fixture, that be something not flush (aka warping the light fixture) with the install perhaps??
    I just cannot see a way (even intentionally) why one side would fail more than the other. There's been stranger things... like seeing roulette hit on black 6 times in a row.
    Yes go LED, again because these are usually sealed better.

  4. #14

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    I would check for over-voltage on that lead (with engine running). If its over then the new LED lights could burn up also, although the LEDs will have a wider acceptable range

  5. #15
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spades View Post
    I would check for over-voltage on that lead (with engine running). ...
    On a trailer all the running lights are powered by the same single pin on the flat connector at the tongue.

    I struggle to see how just one trailer lamp could be affected by high voltage (something over 15 volts?) from the tow vehicle, nor how such high voltage could exist without causing all sorts of possible issues within the tow vehicle.

    This appears to be a Triton trailer, with the lamp assembly mounted in a rubber grommet. Generally these do not cause much trouble, especially the LED versions.

    I have had occasional issues with loose connections where the harness pins plug into the lamp socket. Even a few cases where one of the wire pins falls right out of the socket. The loose end can then short to the trailer frame, perhaps intermittently.

    I still suggest switching to good quality LED lamp module(s). Just less fragile both electrically and mechanically.

  6. #16
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    The saga continues.

    I purchased 2 new LED's and neither one of them work.

    The incandescents work fine (less the original problem). When I swap them out using the exact same connectors, the LED's will not work on either side.

    I would doubt that I have two bad LED lights. These do not have the "try me" button that some LED lights have on their package, so not sure how to test if they actually work or not...

  7. #17
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    If it was my trailer I would be using a multi-meter to check the trailer wiring continuity, especially end to end resistances, and looking for accidental/partial/intermittent shorts to ground, frayed wires, etc.

    It sounds like something weird is going on.

    You can test the new LED lamps with a couple of alligator test wires and any 12 volt source *


    * This is an easy way to ‘make’ a 12 volt battery that is fairly ‘safe’ to use, no chance of a huge spark. Using a PWC or car battery for testing risks a big spark if something gets accidentally shorted.

    The 9 volt battery with two added 1.5 volt AA batteries method inherently limits the maximum current.

    Plenty of current to light up an LED tail light, not nearly enough current to crank an engine





    Tip: The tape wrap just keeps the battery stack from falling apart. The rubber band creates some pressure onto the 9V battery top contacts to make a more stable electrical connection.
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  9. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    To be clear, the + on each battery connects to - on the next.

    9V + pits touches AA - end

    9V - Post touches AA + end

    This puts all the batteries in ‘series’ so that the voltages stack up.
    1.5 + 9 + 1.5 = 12 (ish) volts

  10. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xspook View Post
    The saga continues.

    I purchased 2 new LED's and neither one of them work.

    The incandescents work fine (less the original problem). When I swap them out using the exact same connectors, the LED's will not work on either side.

    I would doubt that I have two bad LED lights. These do not have the "try me" button that some LED lights have on their package, so not sure how to test if they actually work or not...
    Possible the plug pigtail that connects to the lamp fixture has reverse polarity / wired to the harness wrong??

    Explains everything here
    https://www.etrailer.com/question-93401.html

  11. #20
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    Here are the two lamps. Incandescent on the left, LED on the right. Seem to have the same markings as to what connectors go where...



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