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  1. #1

    Carbs with the EMM

    Refer to my repairing my EMM post 01 Virage TXI. Replaced C27 & C28 but couldn't find the SCRs for Q9 and Q13 so left them out-packed the crumbled potting in and covers on. Back in ski-weak idle and low RPM bog-top revs are fine. I bolted on some carbs unplugged injectors dropped the fuel lines in a 32oz. cup and with a cap a fuel down each carb she fired right up. Revs up fine and idles much smoother-No Bogging. Code light is flashing crazy-open injector codes I am guessing. Thinking resistors might handle that. I had already purchased a TX exhaust for it and now its time to put it on. I have a nice ported and polished log for sale {lol}. Going to rework the fuel system tomorrow and should have this on my test lake Saturday.

  2. #2
    Not sure if anybody is interested about this project but I have it working well. I shot some riding video Saturday of it and will post it on you tube when I figure out how.

  3. #3
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Upstate NY
    We are definitely interested, I believe you are breaking new ground

  4. #4
    I will log on tomorrow after work and let you know what I have done-Ride On

  5. #5
    Ok here is what I have so far-1200 carb rack on,fuel pump power disconnect and drilled hole in top of tank to fit rubber grommet for the fuel pick up. Plugged the TPS in and set aside-primed carbs til it stayed running red led flashing non stop-oh and I yanked the fuel regulator out-barb too and ran the fuel return in and have a filter on the draw side. Back to running engine-. did a few sweeps on the TPS and did not change RPMs-Next morning I put 1.5k resistors in the injector plugs and no check engine flashing-I ohmed My injectors at 1.2 and 1k would work too but I had 1.5s on hand. Now on the test lake and ski dies as soon as you thumb it-fires right back up-so I putz across the lake feathering the throttle trying to launch it-about ready to call it a fail after 4-5 minutes and it took off and pulled hard right to 60 MPHs. Had the same problem all day-4-5 minutes to get power but once it takes off No problems at all-pulls way better between 55-60 and not one stall or bog when slowing down or chopping the throttle. Next morning I am tinkering with it and find the low speed screws at 3 turns out on the carbs-factory is 1.5 I believe. So I reset them and fire it up on the trailer and while running I did some more TPS sweeps and it has a big affect on the idle-so I take it with the injectors open the TPS had no effect on the ignition timing-. The TPS has to sweep with the carbs- A duel pull throttle cable found on a lot of snowmobiles will work to control the TPS. I believe many 5 volt reference TPSs will work if you do not have a working Polaris one or do not want to spend around $300-$400 on used one. I will address these issues and hope that was the prob.. I have a 45 minute vid of non stop riding mostly at 50-60 mphs . Only codes set were 12 for the TPS not sweeping and 39 for the open fuel pump. I have code 17 - alternator voltage low is why my injectors work like crap at low speed.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    I think the fuel injector internal coil resistance is just a couple of ohms, not kilo-ohms.

    The Ficht throttle bodies are just dummy Bing carbs, just with no carb guts installed. You might be able to rig up the TPS onto the rear end of the Keihin carburetor shaft, similar to stock Ficht.

    Tip: My understanding is the Ficht ignition is multi-strike* in the idle through mid-range and single strike above about 5500 RPM. Single strike during cranking.

    * Multiple rapid fire sparks during each power stroke.

    Ignition advance curve in effect as the RPM rises. I do not know whether the TPS signal affects ignition timing.

  7. #7
    My first thought was to change the shaft on the pto carb-no bosses to bolt the TPS to. While idling the TPS is changing RPMs-sounds best at low side-when swept to wide open RPMs drop. 1K is not 1 OHM?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Quote Originally Posted by ProX700 View Post
    ... 1K is not 1 OHM?
    In electronics terms, K means Kilo, which is 1,000

    So 1K ohms = 1,000 ohms

    For completeness;

    1M = 1 Mega ohms, which is 1 million ohms = 1,000,000 ohms

    1 ohm (no suffix) is, well = just 1 ohm

    Note: 1 ohm is a fairly low resistance.
    45 volts applied across 1 ohm would flow about 45 amps of current, which is quite a lot.

    45 volts across a 1.5K ohm resistor (so 1500 ohms) would flow about 30 milliamps (30/1000 fraction of 1 amp) and dissipate about 1.35 watts of heat.

  9. #9
    When I OHM tested the 1.5k I though it showed 325. something- no k. then I hooked a 10 ohm in and they smoked and turned black in seconds. Now I have a .998k in there and it seem fine. Still not sure on the TPS control-I found some carb issues that might have caused the cold launch prob. Was getting fuel in the pulse line on front carb-pulled the pulse pumps apart and looked good. Cleaned reassembled and found the center carb low speed at 1/4 turn out-set all 3 a 1 1/2 out and it definitely runs better cold. On the TPS I have bolted it to a single body so it will stay fixed at idle position since I just kinda left it hanging first test. All in all it ran great after it launched with no hesitations,bogs or stalling and is stronger on top the way I had it. I will have it out this weekend. Working on posting the vid-I need a pic of this ride on here-pretty mint-factory decals gone-Life is Short Don't be a Dick on the side with some Polaris Racing under the rub-

  10. #10


    I don't really think all the coils need to be active-can I cut the 4 wires that would be the 7vac power? Mine put out 10.86vac at cranking with the 12 magnet wheel. Load on engine for nothing-have code 17 anyways.

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