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  1. #31
    Ok guys, holidays over I'm back on this thing. Got cylinder fixed/replated. Got brand new cylinder head with new springs etc and non damaged valves from old head reground. Getting all new pistons and new rod for bad piston/cylinder. So I'm thinking, damn I've come this far I might as well pull crank out make sure the journals are all ok/within limits. I'm now hung up at splitting the crankcase. Page 8-7 of the manual shows using the coupling holder and " (33 and under)" box wrench on the output shaft. Looked and looked at this picture, still don't see it. Are they talking about holding the other end of the crankshaft where the sprocket is for timing chain? What is the 33 talking about? The bolt head on that sprocket is about 17mm I think. I totally get that the dashed line under C in the illustration means it is not visible from this view, but would be nice to know where and what size box wrench goes.

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  2. #32
    Thanks MWHC. I saw on here somewhere that a guy did that by putting a pin through the small end of two center connecting rods with a wood block underneath to protect the case. I guess it comes off ccw? Btw, you know what that box wrench 33 and under business is about/where it would go?

  3. #33
    I don't see how that would work unless the center of the coupler tool is open, whereby the end of the output shaft would be sticking out so you could get a box end on it. The end of the output shaft takes a 24mm socket btw.

    I'm definitely of the "hasn't torn down a few engines" variety and that's why I'm trying to do it by the book, but sometimes the book makes things harder than they need to be. Or so it seems to me. Good thing we have the interwebs today. This would be a nightmare trying to figure this out with just the book and no one to ax questions of. Many thanks yall!

  4. #34
    Spent most of this morning/afternoon trying various ways to get the shaft/coupler off crank. Tried the impact, heat gun, breaker bar with 3' cheater bar and hammer..........nada. I had the crank stopped via two center connecting rods/long 1/2" sockets thru the small ends/blocks of wood. Finally I gave up figured I would try a chain wrench on coupler, so off I go to Northern Tool to buy chain wrench. On the way up there I'm wondering about my impact wrench (it had trouble breaking loose some of my truck lugs a few days ago) since it kinda came with the air compressor (cheap ish). I get big chain wrench and swing by impact aisle. I buy the best 1/2" one I can find (2 bills), take it home, rig up the nipple, and BAM within 2 seconds the whole enchilada backs off no problem. Finally!

  5. #35
    What are you guys thoughts on metallic vs rubber (ish) oil pan gaskets. Looks like the OEM one is really thin metal. I guess metal must work, just never seen that before.

  6. #36
    Here's another question for y'all. What is best way to get cylinder onto the crankcase? The manual talks about two ways: 1) By hand 2) With Kawi special tools.

    I have the crankcase back together, have all new pistons and new cylinder. Just like to know which way is the least painful. Thx

  7. #37
    Just in case anyone is wondering whatever happened to this engine/rebuild, thanks to Steve at Kawi Performance, this ski is back in the water/working great so far, (about 30 mins going easy ish from boat ramp to my dock). It took a year, but with job etc slowing me down, it could have been done much sooner. Bottom line is it can be done if you have basic wrenching skills and someone that's up on Kawi skis to ax questions of (Steve) when service manual leaves you scratching your head. It's also very satisfying to see a year long project like this come out like it was supposed to. Thanks to everybody else that chimed in during the early stages of my ordeal. I appreciate it and I learned a GREAT deal along the way!

  8. #38
    Soooooooo I'm riding that bad boy today, now has a little over 10 hours on it, still running strong. Made a couple hard turns near some other boat traffic/got a whiff of oil smoke (thought it was one of them). Got it on the lift and checked the oil and OMG I was 1.5 qts low. Any chance there is a logical explanation to this, like maybe it takes an extra quart to fill up a rebuilt/dry engine? If not that where would be a good place to start my diagnosis? Compression check maybe?

  9. #39
    They do take a touch more when completely dry.... they're finicky too though. Put a small 12" level on the valve cover and make sure its completely level and check again. From there you can get into other things to check

  10. #40
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    I carry a small round bubble level in each of my 4-strokes. I pull the dipstick out and wipe it dry, then stick it back in halfway. I set the level on the head and move the 'Ski around until the bubble is centered, then quickly stab the dipstick in and back out.

    I tried gluing a level onto the head, but it only took a few minutes for heat and vibration to destroy it.

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