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  1. #1

    2011 300 Ultra LX Running Strong to Dead/Won't Start

    So I'm out running the #2 ski that I haven't rehabed yet (#1 recently apart for fuel pump/fuel issue, exhaust gaskets/filter, SC belt replacement, and jet pump rebuild). Thing was running great then just bogged down and died, restarted a couple times but would not run. Had to be towed into dock by #1 ski. I get it on trailer and in garage and it still won't start, just a loud click and crankshaft trying to turn but can't/won't turn engine over. So I'm thinking maybe the pump is frozen up like the #1 ski did (impeller frozen to wear ring) as these skis are identical/been ridden, stored, maintained exactly the same. So I take off pump and it's fine; impeller turns easily with one finger. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the SC is locked up. So I take all that stuff out of the way and compress the belt tensioner/put clamp on spring, still no luck with SC belt loose. I have new batteries in both skis but just to be sure I bring truck around and try to jump start it, exactly same. Loud click, crank trying to turn nada. So now I figure must be the starter, so I stick a screwdriver down in the coupler and find that the crank will rotate. I rotate it a 1/4 turn or so, try to start it and bam it turns over and starts, but still won't stay running.

    Btw never got any code on the instrument panel. So now I'm stumped:
    Don't think it's the starter cause it started the engine (oil looked normal)
    Not the SC
    Not the pump
    Not the battery

    What would be the next logical thing to check? Timing chain or cams or what?
    Any help would be appreciated greatly!

    Cran


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    Have you check both ends of both battery cables to make sure they're clean and tight?

  3. #3
    The battery end cables are super clean, the starter end I haven't figured out how to see the starter end since it's buried under the intake etc. I'm expecting the worse by the way it was running fine then just bogged down died. Also I noticed I can only turn the crank clockwise (when viewed from rear) with a screwdriver. The starter will turn over when I do that but then it seems like it hits a brick wall, no more turning in that direction. Should I pull the valve cover and bump the starter to see if everything is moving in there? It's not too difficult to turn the crank with a long screwdriver in the cw direction. Shouldn't I be able to turn it the other way without it feeling like I'm coming up against a dead stop (like the screwdriver will bend/break before the crank turns another mm)?

  4. #4
    Uh oh, I think I've found the problem and it ain't the starter. Went out there about an hour ago hit the starter and it turned over for several seconds but no fire. I decided to check the plugs first, took out #'s 1,2,3 and this is what 4 looked like. I took the valve cover off and saw that both cams do turn when you turn the crank, so there is that, but THIS is a problem. What next?

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  5. #5
    Zoomed in (I hope). Looks like somebody melted the end off with a torch!


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  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    Bummer! Looks like detonation. Start with a borescope, but I'm sure the head will have to come off and I'd bet you have a hole through the piston. Hopefully the cylinder isn't destroyed.

  7. #7
    Take the time to smile sirbreaksalot's Avatar
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    mmmmmmmmmmm yep that's not supposed to look like that !!

    I assume you changed the fuel ( refilled with Premium) , cleaned the fuel filter, checked the exh filter etc like the other ski needed before you rode this at what I assume is WOT before it died.
    Last edited by sirbreaksalot; 09-10-2018 at 06:22 AM.

  8. #8

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    Wow. Never seen a plug fry off like that. I would be betting there is piston / valve damage on # 4 hole. There are still parts of the plug in there possibly.

    Probably a bad injector caused the lean condition to do that on just #4.

    As Steve said, better get a bore scope, but be prepared to yank the head.
    Last edited by pops; 09-10-2018 at 12:22 PM.

  9. #9
    So I'm waiting for my borescope to show up, but expecting the worst. I'm guessing the crankshaft is in one piece because when I turned it at the coupler the timing chain/cams turned. If the #4 piston is toast would it be best to just go ahead and pull the motor out/put it on a table so it would be easier to get at/rebuild? Speaking of rebuilding; can a mortal do that or do you need to take it to a machine shop for head and cylinder wall work?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cranofwaterfell View Post
    So I'm waiting for my borescope to show up, but expecting the worst. I'm guessing the crankshaft is in one piece because when I turned it at the coupler the timing chain/cams turned. If the #4 piston is toast would it be best to just go ahead and pull the motor out/put it on a table so it would be easier to get at/rebuild? Speaking of rebuilding; can a mortal do that or do you need to take it to a machine shop for head and cylinder wall work?
    There's enough of us here who have built them we can walk you through it for sure. One thing you'll have to take into consideration is cost. At bare minimum It's going to be a new cylinder used is $400-600 USD a brand new one is $1k. Valve job or lap those valves back in if even possible, new set of pistons, rings, gaskets..... its possible to leave the crank/cases together and swap all that stuff but putting the cylinder on is WAY harder. The rings hang up blah blah, a full tear down and rebuild will cost ya bearings, oil pump, oil/timing chain, crank/pto seal... adds up quick even if ya do it yourself. Choice is yours just putting the info out there

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