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  1. #1

    Newbie intro and problem

    So I did just post this on the newbie sticky and then noticed that the last post was over a year ago so sorry but here it it:

    Here is my newbie introduction:

    Where u from?-- Stockton CA
    what kind of ski-- Polaris Genesis I
    what year-- 2002
    what kind of engine-- injected 1200 Ficht
    how many hours on the meter?-- 138.0
    how long did it sit -- 2 yrs
    any new/modified parts on it-- No
    recent tune-ups or rebuild-- Drained fuel and replaced with new premium, replaced axle bearing, new battery, plugs, upgraded coil grounds as instructed on forum
    general history of the ski if you know-- Rode it two years ago (neighbor owned it) before the EMM 8 pin connector burned up. Traded him an old Suzuki worth about $1500 for it. I sent the EMM to FichtEMM in TN about a month ago and paid $450 plus shipping to get the connector cleaned. I replaced the female side and it started.
    price-- "Traded him an old Suzuki worth about $1500 for it"
    comes with trailer?-- Yes
    live on water?-- No
    did the ski run on saltwater or normal lake water Lake and Delta
    compression numbers? -- Not yet
    does it run? It did for a short outing--very well too after fixing the coil grounds.
    Pictures,videos? --Just my Avatar
    mechanical knowledge -- I've maintained my cars and in recent years, some '80's Suzuki's as well as my homes since I was 15. That's a long time by the way.
    tools --Quite a lot but never enough.

    I had the ski out for the first time (after having the EMM "repaired") with my two daughters a week ago and it had a "miss" but ran ok. There was a small leak which turned out to be the pitot tube disconnected. I replaced the axle bearing and that's when I saw it. Took it out this morning to see if it was ok to take the girls back out but it ran pretty rough so I brought it in. I found the thread by K447 instructing to correct the coil grounds. I did so and took it back out and it idled and accelerated perfectly. I was thrilled actually. On the way back it shut down and apparently I did not get the battery cables tightened down properly and they came loose and shut down the motor. I managed to get started again and got back to 5 mph zone where I was towed to the ramp. Got the battery cables tightened down but she only started for a moment and stopped with a nasty screech. I haven't checked the compression yet but that's next. Kinds scared of what might have happened. It was running so sweetly before it shut down. Oh well. Here we go...


  2. #2
    martincom's Avatar
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    Good Morning Gary & Welcome to GH!

    Screech

    Does it turnover normally or is the starter motor straining? I'm assuming by your reference to an axle bearing you actually mean the driveshaft bearing. I'd maybe start there as you just had that disassembled and may have not re-assembled it correctly. So pull the jet pump to the point the driveshaft is disconnected from the engine. Once there, does it turnover any easier? (Disconnect the sparkplug wires so it doesn't start.) Check the compression.

    Loose Battery Cables

    Did they actually come off the battery where the positive cable could have shorted to ground? If so, you may have damaged the 12 volt section of the EMM.

    Fuel Pressure

    Did you reinforce the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)? The Polaris direct injected watercraft are known for having the FPR, located inside the fuel tank, fall off. When this happens fuel pressure falls to near zero. Often, they still run, but poorly and it can lead to a very lean mixture, which, in turn, burns holes through piston.

    I'd suggest you check the fuel pressure first. This is done by connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve (tire stem) in the return fuel line. You can obtain an affordable pressure gauge here. To operate the fuel pump without the engine running, disconnect the large 40 pin connector from the EMM. Ground pin 40, which has a brown wire connected to it. Be careful not to damage or deform the pin receptacle. The fuel pump will run when you ground pin 40 and you should hear it running.

    The fuel pressure should be approximately 25 psi. If it is 0 or near or appreciably lower than 25 psi, clamp off the return line, after the Schrader valve, with a needle nose pliers. If the pressure rises to near 30 psi, the FPR has fallen off.

    While at this point, measure the current draw of the fuel pump by grounding pin 40 through a current meter. It should be approximately 2.0 amps. If it is more than 3.0 amps, you may have an issue with the fuel pump. If near 7.0 amps, it has been replaced with a so-called aftermarket direct replacement and the excessive current drain is causing the fuel pump driver to overheat within the EMM.

    Regardless of whether you have 25 psi of fuel pressure or not, the FPR needs to be repaired/reinforced. This is MANDATORY. Here is a link for how to do it:

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77110

    Do you have a service manual?

    Report back.

  3. #3
    Thank you for your reply.

    In order asked:

    It turns over until it screeches and then a bit at a time. Weird but it seems to free up if left alone for a while. Probably my imagination.

    Driveshaft bearing is fine.

    Battery cables did not come off completely.

    The fuel pressure regulator was in place when I removed the pump and drained and cleaned the fuel tank but I can’t test the pressure at the moment because a previous owner must have eliminated the Schrader valve when changing the fuel lines because there isn’t one to be found.

    I have a digital copy of the service manual.

    I just took these photos. I’m not exactly sure what normal should look like although I was viewing some pics last night of piston or fuel “wash” but I believe the close-up of the front piston shows pitting near the exhaust port and you can definitely feel it. The other two seem ok. No sign of scarring in any of the cylinder walls.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polgar View Post
    ...

    It turns over until it screeches and then a bit at a time. Weird but it seems to free up if left alone for a while. ...
    Driveshaft bearing is fine.

    ...
    Remove jet pump and driveshaft. I suspect the jet pump bearings are binding.

    Engine can be started and run without the driveshaft.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Remove jet pump and driveshaft. I suspect the jet pump bearings are binding.

    Engine can be started and run without the driveshaft.
    I REALLY wanted you to be correct—but no. Pump out—engine still bound up.

  6. #6
    martincom's Avatar
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    There is a remote possibility a magnet could have dislodged from the flywheel (A common problem) and become lodged between the flywheel and the stator.

    It sounds like you're pulling the engine no matter what at this point.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    It sounds like you're pulling the engine no matter what at this point.
    Ugh. I've heard that too many times recently.

    Looking back at when the ski first failed (when I was otherwise thrilled at how well it was running), I am thinking now that the battery was never the problem but that this issue stopped the ski and for whatever reason I was able to restart and get back to the 5 mph zone (maybe less than a minute) before it stopped for good.

    Well, I hope my "cherry picker" can get up high enough to get this out. It may be a couple weeks before I get to it.

    Thanks guys.

  8. #8
    Have to add that I am a bit apprehensive to put a bunch more work into this when the TPS is also likely to fail at some point with no replacement available.

    Of course I do like the ski and want to fix it. Any comments? Like is there a way to repair a failed TPS?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by polgar View Post
    ... TPS is also likely to fail at some point with no replacement available.

    Of course I do like the ski and want to fix it...
    I had a modest stash of pigtail replacement TPS, some brand new 2202740 and a couple that were lightly used. Most have been sold but I have one of the lightly used TPS left.

    Typically when diagnosing a Ficht engine I may swap in a new TPS to see if it helps. Once all the other problems have been corrected and the engine is running properly I would reinstall the original TPS and put the was new but is now used TPS on the shelf. Over the years I had a number of them accumulate.

    The last TPS I have available is from the used but still good category. It was recently bench tested and seems fine.

    I am unaware of any method for refurbishing old TPS.

  10. #10
    CliffsidePM's Avatar
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    You do not have to pull the motor on the Genesis to remove the flywheel and stator. It is easier but it can be done with it still in the hull. I just did one last week.

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