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  1. #11
    Hi!

    Yes, the #1 and #4 crankpins on the crankshaft had damage. The 2 bearings literally disintegrated, so i found small (and big) metal particles/parts everywhere. I cleaned everything up & replaced the oil pump (found metal particles pressed into rotor & stator) and screen. The oil wasn't milky, it smelled and looked like fresh oil. The funny thing is that a shop in germany put mineral 15w-40 oil in the engine. According the manual synthetic oil should be used with API SG-SM specs and JASO MA, M1 or M2 - could wrong oil cause this? The cylinder walls have some scoring, but I don't think it's serious... here the worst one:



    https://ibb.co/nJm119


    The nail doesn't catch / very lightly catches the marks if i go over them - hope that the cylinders are still ok? The rings look ok and are within manual specs (the engine has only 90 hrs!). I re-ground the head valves (can't hurt) and replaced the seals. Piston tops look the same, there is light scoring on the piston skirts - can I reuse the pistons with light scoring? I'll post the pictures later. No water in the intake anywhere, I've also flushed the intercooler with acetone and it was pretty clean.

    Although the engine outside looked neglected (almost all the screws and bolts were rusty), it isn't so bad when I took everything apart. The only bad thing was that the exhaust filter core was missing so I replaced that also (checked the muffler, it's not in there).

    I'm still waiting for the crankshaft so I can start putting the engine back together. The crankshaft shop requested that I bring the crankshaft housing + all new bearings (i bought green STD ones)+ all conrods (2 new + 2 old) so they can measure and check if everything is within spec. The axial bearings are also ok, that means there was no axial pressure which could cause this.

    Alex

  2. #12
    Hurricane1000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ss9940 View Post
    Hi!

    Yes, the #1 and #4 crankpins on the crankshaft had damage. The 2 bearings literally disintegrated, so i found small (and big) metal particles/parts everywhere. I cleaned everything up & replaced the oil pump (found metal particles pressed into rotor & stator) and screen. The oil wasn't milky, it smelled and looked like fresh oil. The funny thing is that a shop in germany put mineral 15w-40 oil in the engine. According the manual synthetic oil should be used with API SG-SM specs and JASO MA, M1 or M2 - could wrong oil cause this? The cylinder walls have some scoring, but I don't think it's serious... here the worst one:



    https://ibb.co/nJm119


    The nail doesn't catch / very lightly catches the marks if i go over them - hope that the cylinders are still ok? The rings look ok and are within manual specs (the engine has only 90 hrs!). I re-ground the head valves (can't hurt) and replaced the seals. Piston tops look the same, there is light scoring on the piston skirts - can I reuse the pistons with light scoring? I'll post the pictures later. No water in the intake anywhere, I've also flushed the intercooler with acetone and it was pretty clean.

    Although the engine outside looked neglected (almost all the screws and bolts were rusty), it isn't so bad when I took everything apart. The only bad thing was that the exhaust filter core was missing so I replaced that also (checked the muffler, it's not in there).

    I'm still waiting for the crankshaft so I can start putting the engine back together. The crankshaft shop requested that I bring the crankshaft housing + all new bearings (i bought green STD ones)+ all conrods (2 new + 2 old) so they can measure and check if everything is within spec. The axial bearings are also ok, that means there was no axial pressure which could cause this.

    Alex
    Do yourself a giant favor....buy some forged pistons and rings.
    Have the cylinders check by millennium Technologies

  3. #13
    steve45's Avatar
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    About the only things I've seen mineral oil used for are aircraft piston engine break-in, and very old tractor/forklift engines that started life with mineral oil and never switched over to detergent oils.

    Mineral oils are used to break-in aircraft engines because you actually WANT some wear to break it in. After that, you want as little wear as possible.

    Mineral oils leave all kinds of sludge and deposits in an engine. If you have an old engine that was run on it, then switch to detergent oil, all that sludge breaks up and clogs filters and oil passages. Not good.

    Sounds to me like you found the cause of your failure.

  4. #14
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    That wont work for long on this ski. Parts alone will cost you 5-6k to fix it right. Key phrase is right. Youd have to be a master machinist to weld going and polishe to correct tolerance let alone balance

  5. #15
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    That wont work for long on this ski. Parts alone will cost you 5-6k to fix it right. Key phrase is right. Youd have to be a master machinist to weld going and polished to correct tolerance let alone balance

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by rlovebk View Post
    That won’t work for long on this ski. Parts alone will cost you 5-6k to fix it right. Key phrase is right. You’d have to be a master machinist to weld going and polishe to correct tolerance let alone balance
    He was given some good advice to NOT do this. But he chose the path of "most resistance". I hope it all works out OK. JB

  7. #17
    ptscon's Avatar
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    Cool project.

    If you can feel the scratches on the cylinder walls they will have to be corrected. You'll most likely have to go oversize pistons or if it's cheaper, and piston skirts are good, have the bad bores re-sleeved and reuse the pistons. There's a chance a hone could clean them up enough and still be within spec but I wouldn't count on it.

    No matter what have all the bores re-honed, and DO NOT re-use the rings. Do not re-use any bearings. After all the work, time and money you want a like new motor not just patched up to run.


    Most important, don't listen to all the haters.

  8. #18
    Haters gonna hate!

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlovebk View Post
    That wont work for long on this ski. Parts alone will cost you 5-6k to fix it right. Key phrase is right. Youd have to be a master machinist to weld going and polished to correct tolerance let alone balance
    Send it to APE, they're beyond qualified..... fixed me up a crank or 2 back to OEM specs before!

  10. #20
    Fat Man, Little Boat Region8Ultra250X's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cranofwaterfell View Post
    Haters gonna hate!
    no hate more like trying to prevent someone spending money unnecessarily....


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