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  1. #11

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    OK, here is the page for the 2008: https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...gnition-system

    The 2008 calls for the same pulsing rotor 21007-3744 as the 2010. Now you need to check the ECU to make sure it is a 2008 for your LX, also. Both the 2008 and 2010 use the same 21175-3734 ECU.

    On a side note, I have the manual for the Ultra 260X and it, too, shows an 8 point trigger wheel also in the service manual. I would say that someone goofed with the manual pictures, because the 260x uses a 20 something point wheel, from what I understand.

    I have an pile of older LX engine parts in garage and I just grabbed the pulsing wheel. It has 22 teeth on it, not 24. Has a "618" and "T1.4" stamped on it. I do not know what year it is, but the engine SN: was JTT50AE0***94. Since your SN: is JTT50AE0 too, looks yours and mine are the same engine model.

    Another question I would have is, will these boats run with a bad multifunction display? I have one here if you need it.
    Last edited by pops; 08-11-2018 at 03:17 AM.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by pops View Post
    OK, here is the page for the 2008: https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...gnition-system

    The 2008 calls for the same pulsing rotor 21007-3744 as the 2010. Now you need to check the ECU to make sure it is a 2008 for your LX, also. Both the 2008 and 2010 use the same 21175-3734 ECU.

    On a side note, I have the manual for the Ultra 260X and it, too, shows an 8 point trigger wheel also in the service manual. I would say that someone goofed with the manual pictures, because the 260x uses a 20 something point wheel, from what I understand.

    I have an pile of older LX engine parts in garage and I just grabbed the pulsing wheel. It has 22 teeth on it, not 24. Has a "618" and "T1.4" stamped on it. I do not know what year it is, but the engine SN: was JTT50AE0***94. Since your SN: is JTT50AE0 too, looks yours and mine are the same engine model.

    Another question I would have is, will these boats run with a bad multifunction display? I have one here if you need it.
    Thank you POPS, Olk firstly yes i have the 21175-3734 ECU it is stamped in the top of it. so that is a bonus lol

    So i have ordered a 20 teeth rotor wheel for it so lets hope this works....... So a multi function display is that the dash??? funny u say that as this only has 67Hrs on it and the ski looks to have more hrs than that but the engine is very tidy to look at but ski is oldish and looks like it has been outside a bit.
    How ould i check this as i didnt see it in the service manual how to check it ???

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by SEDUCE View Post
    Thank you POPS, Olk firstly yes i have the 21175-3734 ECU it is stamped in the top of it. so that is a bonus lol

    So i have ordered a 20 teeth rotor wheel for it so lets hope this works....... So a multi function display is that the dash??? funny u say that as this only has 67Hrs on it and the ski looks to have more hrs than that but the engine is very tidy to look at but ski is oldish and looks like it has been outside a bit.
    How ould i check this as i didnt see it in the service manual how to check it ???
    I wouldn't even know where to begin checking out the display. I guess if it's powered up and acts weird, but that's only a guess. Otherwise, I would imagine one would need to check it out using a scan tool to see what is really going on. Just thought I would make the offer. I already sold the ECU, immobilizer and keys from the box of parts.

    Wish I had thought about this wheel I have before you bought yours. I would have sent it out to you. Not doing me a bunch of good, since I have a 12f engine now..

  4. #14
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    I can see how having the wrong encoder/puler wheel could throw an error that it's not getting a signal from the cam sensor, too confused over the cam sensor pulses and the crank sensor pules conflicting with each other as far as expected timing.

    no doubt the wrong pulse wheel is installed, so again the previous seller was a bald faced liar

    you should certainly try to confirm with kawasaki what year that motor actually is

    you'll also want to have a look at the cam trigger part numbers as previous kawasakis used two different part numbers ( and timing)

    It's my belief with the proper trigger wheel installed, the engine will fire.

    good luck

  5. #15
    OK UPDATE TIME GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    So I went to a ski shop that knows the brand and model of ski very well, He said yes it has the wrong rotor wheel and sold me the correct one (24 teeth I think it had)
    So I got that and also another cam shaft sensor so I know it is new.
    I fitted the correct rotor wheel sold to me and fitted the cam sensor and it still wont start.........(ANGRY FACE)

    This is beyond a joke now. everything has tested fine except for the ecu which I have only done the test that the manual says but could this still be faulty???
    Do I have to resync the engine or anything as it is beeping FI as soon as I put the fob in and put ignition on it says CAA1 code and I haven't tried to start it yet. Does this need to be cleared or anything stupid ?????

  6. #16
    Does the 15f look like the 12f engine or is there anything that stands out if I can tell how to tell them apart????

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by SEDUCE View Post
    Does the 15f look like the 12f engine or is there anything that stands out if I can tell how to tell them apart????
    Looking at 12f and a 15f engine with no manifolds on it , I think the only thing from the outside that'll tell you what it is would be the serial number. If it's a 12f, it will start with a "JTT2". If it's not a wrong motor, I would still be leaning towards wiring / switches / ECU. That's where the sneakiest gremlins live.

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by pops View Post
    Looking at 12f and a 15f engine with no manifolds on it , I think the only thing from the outside that'll tell you what it is would be the serial number. If it's a 12f, it will start with a "JTT2". If it's not a wrong motor, I would still be leaning towards wiring / switches / ECU. That's where the sneakiest gremlins live.
    Well it has a new cam sensor in it and the correct rotor wheel for the crank shaft sensor now so I guess it only leaves the ECU.......Just wish I could test it before replacing it.......

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by SEDUCE View Post
    Well it has a new cam sensor in it and the correct rotor wheel for the crank shaft sensor now so I guess it only leaves the ECU.......Just wish I could test it before replacing it.......
    If it were me, I would test continuity from the ECU connector to each and every sensor, including the Immobilizer.. See if all readings are correct all the way through the harness. That will tell you if you have a crap connector plug / bad pin / bad wire. I do motorcycle, RV and marine electrical system repairs and faulty / dirty connections and busted wires are the cause of 90% of the problems.

    I would also test the +12 VDC coming in to the ECU for stability. Wiggle all the connectors during testing see if anything changes. Also, ensure all grounds (B-), grounds (B-) and grounds (B-) are clean and tight. A very light film of grease on the connection points works wonders controlling corrosion.

    Only after testing all that, would I sneak up on swapping the ECU.

    PS: Are you sure the multi function gauge is good? (I have a spare LX one (has the boost band, too) if you need it)

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by pops View Post
    If it were me, I would test continuity from the ECU connector to each and every sensor, including the Immobilizer.. See if all readings are correct all the way through the harness. That will tell you if you have a crap connector plug / bad pin / bad wire. I do motorcycle, RV and marine electrical system repairs and faulty / dirty connections and busted wires are the cause of 90% of the problems.

    I would also test the +12 VDC coming in to the ECU for stability. Wiggle all the connectors during testing see if anything changes. Also, ensure all grounds (B-), grounds (B-) and grounds (B-) are clean and tight. A very light film of grease on the connection points works wonders controlling corrosion.

    Only after testing all that, would I sneak up on swapping the ECU.

    PS: Are you sure the multi function gauge is good? (I have a spare LX one (has the boost band, too) if you need it)
    I will check all that again and make sure but it did test fine, Where are the grounds as I only see one that is on the starter motor there that goes to block. Is that the only one?
    I will search for the diagnosis check for the multi display and make sure it working fine.


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