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  1. #1

    Help Required KAWASAKI DEALER CANT FIX MY SKI

    Hey guys Iím chasing some help from the knowledgeable guys here to help get a 2010 Kawasaki Ultra LX 160hp started.

    i brought the ski from someone and they said it didnít start it needs a battery so I believed them and brought it got a battery and got it in and still wouldnít start.
    u put the key in and it says FI, then fuel I drained the fuel/gas and put new fuel in as it had been sitting for a bit and smelt off.

    it still didnít start so I took it to Kawasaki dealer who put the tool on and said it has a bad crank angle sensor and they replaced it, then they said the problem has move to another sensor and replaced it and still wouldnít start, this went on for 4 sensors. Then they rang me and said come get it as it has major problems and they canít fix it, itís likely in the harness or ecu.
    i got it home removed the harness and cleaned every single connector and terminal, refitted it and tried again it still wonít start.
    i checked and itís getting fuel up the rail. I checked spark and it doesnít have any spark.
    So I guess I need to check the coils
    how do u check them and do you do it in the ski or removed? Also anything else that could control the spark to not work?
    Anyone else have any info or help for me??
    thanks guys for your time and hope someone can help me out here.


  2. #2
    Myself's Avatar
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    Typically, an ignition coil has a low primary (input) ohms like 200 or less. Many are less than 1 ohm. And a much higher secondary (plug wire) reading, from 8-25k ohm.

  3. #3
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    who is the dealer that was guessing a the problem?

    you need to get to somebody who knows how to pull the error codes and repair a fuel injection system.

    not rocket science.

    problems don't move to "other sensors", what else has been replaced and did the give you the replaced parts when you paid for the not good work?

    and most importantly, where are you?

    oh yeah, welcome aboard GH

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    Have you contacted the previous owner? Sadly, you've learned the hard way that 'all it needs is a battery' means it's got problems that the seller doesn't want to spend money to fix.

    Unless you can RIDE it or hear it run and do a compression test, you must always assume that the boat has sunk and the engine is rusted solid and buy it accordingly.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    who is the dealer that was guessing a the problem?

    you need to get to somebody who knows how to pull the error codes and repair a fuel injection system.

    not rocket science.

    problems don't move to "other sensors", what else has been replaced and did the give you the replaced parts when you paid for the not good work?

    and most importantly, where are you?

    oh yeah, welcome aboard GH
    thank you for the welcome.

    It was a local Kawasaki dealer where i live in Australia
    I didnít get any of the old parts and to be honest not even sure if they did replace them and just ripped me!
    they were quick to take my money and said take it elsewhere or someone who knows them as they could waste hours and hours chasing the fault and not get anywhere.

    i checked the coils and none are getting spark.
    i checked ohmís and one was 2.3m ohms with ignition off them when I turned it on it went to open circuit ????
    Is this normal or how do u check a coil if itís good or not.

  6. #6
    Here is the video

  7. #7

  8. #8
    Myself's Avatar
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    Check coils with them unplugged.

  9. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    well I'd be complaining about getting charged for parts and not having those "bad" parts returned.

    ring up the dealer and tell him you'd like a refund, before his incompetence reaches the corporate offices of Kawasaki

    Dealers have access to resources guys like me don't. I can't call in a seadoo expert if I'm having a hard time diagnosing an intermittent problem

    no spark isn't necessarily an ignition coil problem

    I doubt previous owner was honest..so that aside now....

    I would flat out suspect the ecu, since hard starting skis are often jump started repeatedly, but everything else seems in order, so lets push that down the list

    I'd be more interested in what the pickup coil is doing since that was the dealers first guess

    now I don't get much Kawasaki work outside of pumps and the occasional exhaust filter or s/c belt

    so let me sniff the manual for a minutes....

    ok so we can begin....

    you mentioned you say "Fi" on the console.

    see if you can display the actual error code and we can go from there before we get our hands dirty.

    while you do this, take some time to check every exposed connector you can reach. maybe the buffoons failed to reconnect one while they were flattening your wallet

    get a manual if you intend to fix this on your own.

    in the meantime I'll help out here and there.

    here's how to pull the error code from the service manual.

    which model exactly?. This is from ultra 250


    User Mode
    This is a standard mode and enters automatically after
    ignition switch ON. The ECU notifies the rider of troubles
    in DFI system and ignition system by going on LED warning
    light [A] by flashing, the FI indicator [B] and “FI” character
    [C] when DFI system and ignition system parts are
    faulty, and initiates fail-safe function. The buzzer sound
    goes on. In case of serious troubles ECU stops the injection/
    ignition/starter motor operation. The buzzer sound can
    be stopped by pushing either “SET” or “MODE” button.

    Dealer Mode
    The LCD in the meter unit displays service code character
    [A] to show the problem(s) which the DFI system and
    ignition system has at the moment of diagnosis. •To enter the dealer mode push the “SET” button [B] with
    “MODE” button [C] for 3 seconds or more. •Read the service code character in the LCD display. Refer
    to the “Service Code (Character) Table” in the following
    section. •To return the user mode push either “SET” or “MODE”
    button for one second or more. •The service code character(s) will not be shown on the
    LCD in the meter unit after the problems are solved.

    it should be clear what the next step is once you gain the actual error code.

    guessing is not a good way, there could be a dozen reasons why there is no spark.

    I'm not that familiar with the failsafe functions on this ski, but I might assume that unless everything is in order, it won't spark ( perhaps to prevent starter fluid excessive use to blow the motor up)

    kawasaki also has a "i'm flipped over" sensor, and that's a common fault on seadoos, so perhaps we'll also poke at that, depending on the console code.

    we'll take a run thru the book and if we find the fault and the engine runs, print it all out and demand a refund in exchange for a draft copy of " the secrets of troubleshooting", by Captain Pete and the Green Hulk Crew

    ps-it looks like replacing the ignition trigger require removal of the engine, as I mentioned, I don't do much outside routine stuff on Kawasakis. when they have big trouble, they typically get parted out. the crank sensor resistance in 408-612 ohms a two pin connector at the front of the motor

    pss-there is a clear error code for an ignition coil fault, but I don't think you'll see it.

  10. #10
    Thanks for the input nmpeter, I will check for codes today as u said. It is a ultra lx 160hp no sc engine
    I checked power at the 2 pins at coils and the red one has 12v constantly. Ignition on its 12v and also cranking
    should the black be earth or s that the trigger wire that should flicker 12v when sparking???
    What tells it to spark if I’m not getting spark when it has power is it the stator or cam sensor??

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