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Thread: Exciter 220

  1. #1

    Exciter 220

    Last night i picked up a 97 exciter 220 for a good deal.

    Pretty decent boat, needs reverse cables (one going to the lever is broken, one of the others is stiff, I am just gonna put all three on).

    The bad:
    Turf needs a bit of work
    Latch handle on floor hatch is broken
    main seat back is mismatched but untorn (was yellow, vinyl painted black, boat has purple)
    Engines are hard starters when cold
    misc cosmetics, nothing terrible for a 20 year old boat, worst thing will be tidying the dash up, I am assuming switches and stuff are unobtanium.
    on premix 40:1
    engines wont turn off on lanyard or key switches. owner before last owner put two push pull switches down to the left of the driver to shut them off
    a few 3m connectors were spotted related to the bilge


    The good:
    all six cylinders range between 118-121 on my gauge
    after the first cold start, engines start instantly and sound good
    NON POWERVALVE ENGINES!
    on premix (lol)
    hull is free of gouges, is in decent shape
    owner flushed (holy crap!) and even greased the midshaft bearings. (!!!!)

    I am planning to replace/inspect all the fuel lines, put GPR type filters on. Will be pulling both sets of carbs for cleaning/inspection and popoff check. Fresh plugs.

    I want to put the oil injection back on. Premixing 34 gallons of fuel sucks. I am unsure if the pumps are still on it (lines are still on and going...somewhere down there). The tank is gone. I do not trust pumps that have been run dry so I will need to score new ones. What parts do i need to install the variable ratio pumps? I know pumps and cables. Will the bracket be present for the pump cable on the carbs already? (I am at work and trying to snag parts instead of working LOL)
    Last edited by raven007; 07-12-2018 at 09:43 AM.

  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    Overall, pretty simple fixes.

    To replace the shift cables, you'll have to get into the bilge. Go through the engine compartment bulkhead access plates to loosen the clamps on the big black hoses, remove the screws securing the cleanout tray, and the tray should lift out. In reality, it won't--you'll have to use a screwdriver to work the tray loose from the hoses.

    Replace the latch with a metal one. Hot if you step on it, but it won't break. Readily available online, don't buy OEM.

    Regarding the key switches, they're old enough to start falling apart. New ones are still available from Yamaha. To shut the engine off, the black and white wires are connected. They must be isolated for the engines to run. Keep in mind that the lanyard switch is actually a ganged switch, one for each engine. The kill switches under the rear hatch can get out of adjustment and cause the engines to die unexpectedly. Again, the black and white wires kill the ignition system and must be isolated from each other to run. The brown wires enable the starter circuit.

    I have the variable ratio pumps on my Exciter 220. I would not hold out for them, negligible difference in smoke. I don't know if the brackets were originally installed or not, I doubt it. You can use the pump from a 1200 engine. You will get a wee bit more oil, which won't hurt anything. I don't have a picture of the bracket handy.

  3. #3
    Wow. Cant believe I missed this response. I am back working on this boat. Thanks for the input!

    Luckily i scored a pdf of the manual. Should be up and going soon.

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    Good!

    I'll see you at YJB.


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