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  1. #1

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    2000 Pro 785 fuel line routing

    I have a 2000 Pro 785 that I just replaced a sheared woodruff key in and I am putting it back together. For a couple of reasons, I wish to verify the correct routing of the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the carbs, vents, etc. Since the Pro 785 does not have a "reserve" line fitting (that is positioned lower in the fuel tank than the "on" fitting), does it matter which line (to the fuel separator, the vent, or the return) goes on which fitting on top of the fuel tank, or are they all the same? Does anyone gave a diagram showing the proper routing? I have seen a couple of diagrams, but they don't differentiate between the three fittings on the fuel tank.

    Also, does a 2000 Pro 785 utilize a battery cover? If so, does anyone have one for sale?

    Thanks!

    Tony


  2. #2
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    There will be little letters stamped on the black fuel pickup next to each fitting to tell you what each fitting is.

    RET: Return from the carbs.
    VENT: Vent fitting that goes to the grommet under the hood.
    RES: This is where the fuel will be picked up and sent through the water separator and into the carbs.

    There is no battery cover for the 785 since the electrical box doesn't sit on top of the battery like the other Polaris models.

  3. #3

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    hyoctane23- Thank you very much. I actually looked for that very thing, but did not see it. I probably will have to clean off the pickup with a toothbrush a bit to see it, as it is pretty heavily laden with dust. I really appreciate the help as I think am getting close to getting it running properly. I am hoping the sheared key was the reason for it running like a pooch, but we'll have to see. Compression is 125 psi across the board.. Truth is, I have yet to ride a Pro 785 that runs even halfway decently, and I have been looking for one for many, many years. I test drove three of them (all '98s) before I bought this one, but none have yet to run even close to what I would expect for a Pro 785 (all were purported to run great, yet all three had at least one cylinder with less than 70 psi compression...). My '96 SL 700 and '95 and '96 SLX 780s would have driven past them like they were parked- even if I gave the Pros 10 boat lengths in a 300 foot drag race. Thanks again- much appreciated. .....Tony

  4. #4
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Yeah if this is the same ski that you were getting spark but it wasn't starting, then the sheared woodruff key you found would be the cause. You'll probably crap your pants the first time those pipes hit on your ski. Look again for those markings on the top of the sender...they're there but just probably covered with grime like you said.

  5. #5

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    Yup, same scenario. It ran before (last fall- one very short ride I took when I bought it), but very poorly. It idled and gained rpm smoothly with no missing, but was a complete pooch and wouldn't rev past approximately 5000 rpm. The key probably (read: hopefully) sheared completely when I was trying to start it a few weeks ago after I replaced the fuel lines, hence the good spark/proper fuel/no start conundrum. I am hoping that the key was "somewhat" sheared before and that the time on the starter trying to get fuel through the new lines (and it finally hit and kicked back), finished the shearing process. I am hoping that it is not a bad stator. When I put the MAG cylinder at TDC, there was no timing mark in the sight window after it wouldn't start. Unfortunately, I did not check the timing when it was running. I did checked the crank phase and it was spot-on. There was very little damage to the crankshaft snout and keyway slot/bed, so it appeared to be a light load key-shearing event. The flywheel nut and flywheel came off VERY easily, and appeared to have been insufficiently torqued. I couldn't find an OEM Woodruff key (NLA), so I made one out of a larger one. It took a bit of time, but it is very snug-fitting. I also lapped the crankshaft snout and flywheel and then used 271 Loctite (red) on the snout/flywheel interface. I will report out once it get a chance to get back to it. I need to finish the roof on my shop, prep a car for sale, and install a new wiper motor on my Jeep, and then I can turn my attention back to the 'ski.

  6. #6

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    "You'll probably crap your pants the first time those pipes hit on your ski."

    That is the result I am anticipating. I will be wearing"Depends" on my first ride. Hopefully they will get "load-tested" (I know, TMI...)

  7. #7
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    You NEED to find an OEM one or else you'll have the same problem all over again. There are tons on eBay.

  8. #8

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    Hmmm, I looked and from what I saw when I compared the part numbers, the 785 Pro P/N (KEY,WOODRUFF P/N 3085597) is different from the others, say 1996 SLX key P/N ((KEY,WOODRUFF P/N 3240168). I could find all the other models' keys, but not for a 785 Pro. They are NLA from Polaris, as I went to a dealer. That is why I lapped the crank and flywheel and used thread lock on the crank/flywheel interface, expecting a somewhat softer key material from the TSC store in which I purchased the Woodruff key. I'm going to have to take my chances on this for now and cross my fingers. If the friction fit is good, there should be very little shear forces on the key. Considering how easily the flywheel nut came off, I'm thinking that operator error at assembly may have played at part in the demise of the key. Btw, I looked at the black fuel pickup last night and saw the identification markings on the fitting- they were as clear as day and I had to check myself if I was bleeding to see if the darn things had bit me. Before, I was looking at the top plateau where the fittings came out, not below and to the side. Regardless, they were pretty obvious. Thanks again for the guidance.

  9. #9
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Did you use red threadlocker on the snout?

  10. #10

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    Yes. I used red Loctite (271) on the snout (snout/flywheel interface), and blue Loctite (242) on the nut/threads.

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