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  1. #11

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    That spring came out of the bendix. Its not shown in most parts fiche for the PWC's, but its shown in this picture from a Polaris ATV bendix. Its #20. It holds the 3 flywheels in position and helps it retract properly after power is released from the starter motor.
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  2. #12
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gen2 View Post
    That spring came out of the bendix. Its not shown in most parts fiche for the PWC's, but its shown in this picture from a Polaris ATV bendix. Its #20. It holds the 3 flywheels in position and helps it retract properly after power is released from the starter motor.
    Agreed. New bendix should fix the problem. If you haven't found one yet, I have several. I can get you a clean flywheel too if interested.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gen2 View Post
    That spring came out of the bendix. Its not shown in most parts fiche for the PWC's, but its shown in this picture from a Polaris ATV bendix. Its #20. It holds the 3 flywheels in position and helps it retract properly after power is released from the starter motor.
    Good catch! Thanks! Took mine apart to clean it, following hyoctane23's bendix cleaning post and didn't even realize this piece was a part of it. Guess I'm going to need a new bendix.

    Mostly glad it's not the front crank seal!

  4. #14

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    Okay. Installed the new Bendix and starter motor engagement problem went away, but there still remains the other issue of the motor just stopping as if the kill button was pressed.


    I started it up in the water yesterday for the first time, and as always it's a bit difficult to start. It took maybe 5 or 6 presses of the starter (with choke) to finally get it going and running at idle. I let it warm up a bit at idle for 15-20 seconds and it ran at medium throttle just fine for another 15 seconds. Then gave it full throttle and it hesitated a bit like it was on 2 cylinders for a second or two and then the third cylinder kicked in and gave me about 30 seconds of full throttle. Then it just died as if the kill button was pressed. I attempted to restart it. The starter would engage and turn over the engine but it would either start and then immediately die, or it wouldn't start at all. I tried starting it 20-25 more times but eventually, the battery died and wouldn't turn the starter. The voltmeter on the MFD showed the battery was significantly below a useful charge at about 10.3V if I remember correctly. I pulled it from the hull and put it on a trickle-charger for the week. I do find it odd that this new battery lost the capability to start the engine so rapidly.


    I'm now starting to suspect it's either a poor connection in the electrical box, as this problem started sporadically a few weeks ago and has progressively gotten worse, or it's a failed stator, CDI, or LR23 rectifier. Do these symptoms point to any one of these potential parts?


    I have a spare stator/flywheel I picked up from an old Polaris dealer when I suspected stator issues a few years ago, but I have no idea or guarantee that it's working. I will test it tonight. I'm assuming I can fully test it on the bench, all except for the hall sensor. I'll also test the originally installed stator when I get the electrical box open next weekend.


    K447 mentioned earlier in the thread that the failed bendix may have permanently engaged with the engine spinning to the point of seizing it. This is not the case as I tested the starter before installing the new Bendix and it still spun up strongly with no strange noises. If the starter had permanently engaged the flywheel (but not seize) could it function as magneto/generator and generate current putting it back into the electrical circuit damaging the CDI or LR23?


    I may be in the market for a CDI and/or LR23 this week so I can swap parts out next weekend.

  5. #15

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    I found some local parts (CDI, stator, flywheel, coils, solenoid, and CDI box) but they're from a 1996 SL780. Will they work in a 1995 SL750? From my initial look on parts.polarisind.com the CDI part numbers are different between the two models.

  6. #16
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBee63 View Post
    I found some local parts (CDI, stator, flywheel, coils, solenoid, and CDI box) but they're from a 1996 SL780. Will they work in a 1995 SL750? From my initial look on parts.polarisind.com the CDI part numbers are different between the two models.
    Answered in your other post, but here as well. Yes, interchangeable.

  7. #17
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    AS far as the shut down goes, I would take apart and test your kill switch, inspect the wiring all the way back to the ebox, and check for loose or frayed wiring, perhaps clamped into the box halves. All it takes is a quick ground to kill the motor. You can perform a test by removing the kill wire connection from the CDI to the ebox terminal, at which point you will have to choke the motor out or cut off the fuel to kill it. If that solves the issue, I would suspect a short somewhere in the wire harness or kill switch. If it still dies, its in the CDI. LR should have nothing to do with killing the motor.....

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    AS far as the shut down goes, I would take apart and test your kill switch, inspect the wiring all the way back to the ebox, and check for loose or frayed wiring, perhaps clamped into the box halves. All it takes is a quick ground to kill the motor. You can perform a test by removing the kill wire connection from the CDI to the ebox terminal, at which point you will have to choke the motor out or cut off the fuel to kill it. If that solves the issue, I would suspect a short somewhere in the wire harness or kill switch. If it still dies, its in the CDI. LR should have nothing to do with killing the motor.....
    Thanks for the direction. Yeah, I'm thinking loose/frayed/corroded wire since it seems the engine dies once there's more movement of the hull in the water – maybe it's jiggling loose when things start bouncing around. I will test the kill switch as well. I'm going to go through and test all the electrical components this weekend while I have the electrical box open. I also found some actual '95 SL750 working (hopefully!) electrical parts locally for a decent price. Even if I don't need them I'll have spares if I ever do.

  9. #19
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBee63 View Post
    ... maybe it's jiggling loose when things start bouncing around. I will test the kill switch as well. I'm going to go through and test all the electrical components this weekend while I have the electrical box open. ...
    Is this the machine that also needed an extra copper wire around the spark plug shells, and run to ground somewhere?

  10. #20
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    While you're at it, check the resistance of the big ground wire that goes from the engine bed plate to the battery...should be very low. Those have been known to corrode up internally and cause lots of issues.

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