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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tommygunner1927 View Post
    Is the flame arrestor still in the intake manifold? If not, how was it removed?

    Consider purchasing the CanDooPro.
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2028
    Why does this have relevance? It has not been removed and is still there.

  2. #22

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    I think whats happening here is a I'm down on one or more cylinders just a little bit. It seems to match up with everything I have seen. Are there any articles on leak-down SPECIFICally for 4tecs just to make sure I dont miss anything.

  3. #23
    Bob 1tommygunner1927's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigburd View Post
    Why does this have relevance? It has not been removed and is still there.
    Depending how it was removed, there could be a vacuum leak. Moot point now. Check throttle body to ensure the throttle blade opens completely. Pull charge tube off the TB, plug in key, do not start, using a mirror not fingers, apply full throttle.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigburd View Post
    Hi,

    Have a 2010 RXTX starts and runs 50MPH no problem. Changed coils with known working RXP, replaced spark plugs.

    Ski idles rough something is def going on cuz sometimes it dies in the water after startup if you dont give it any gas.

    No check engine light/no codes have hooked it to BRP USB.

    Any ideas? Feels like a vacuum leak on a car.
    figure it out yet?

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by zylinderkopf View Post
    figure it out yet?
    I'm still working on this ski this thing is a POS and I DO not recommend anyone buy any of the new sea doos.

    I had to replace the back hatchs ($100 each) They were warped and leaking which is how I was getting into bildge. I tried new gaskets and that didnt work they were actually warped!
    I had to replace the hood (it was warped and didnt shut properly $400 from WCSS.
    I now have IBR resistance error which is bad IBR $1000 or bad Main harness $600

    The machine runs fast now with a new impeller (the old one was in worst shape than i though upon first inspection). It still idles like crap though. Here is a summary of what I have done regarding Idle issue:
    NEW throttle body
    NEW Pressure sensor AND Temp sensor in airbox
    NEW airbox
    NEW Fuel pump
    NEW fuel line to injector rail

    Thing still idles like shit. Next thing I'm thinking is the throttle actuator in the handlebars because i unplugged it and it changed the idle speed.

    Meanwhile i have been using my 2008 and 2007 RXP'p with NO issues!

  6. #26

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    Most of the advice while good is probably over kill. Typical 'runs fine but idles like crap' issues not resolved via plugs/coils is a leaking injector. Another symptom of that is harder starting 1/2hr to 2hrs after shut down (because 1 cyl will flood).. Pull the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail and pull out. Turn on dess so you hear pump run briefly. If you see a drip from an injector, it's toast.

    Have a Ford V10 does this regularly and very similer injectors. Rough and smelly idle and hard start if it's sat for a bit.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandpiper View Post
    Most of the advice while good is probably over kill. Typical 'runs fine but idles like crap' issues not resolved via plugs/coils is a leaking injector. Another symptom of that is harder starting 1/2hr to 2hrs after shut down (because 1 cyl will flood).. Pull the 2 bolts holding the fuel rail and pull out. Turn on dess so you hear pump run briefly. If you see a drip from an injector, it's toast.

    Have a Ford V10 does this regularly and very similer injectors. Rough and smelly idle and hard start if it's sat for a bit.

    Genius!

    I will look into this. If you are incorrect and it is NOT a leaky injector, Do you think its possible a slightly clogged injector could affect idle WITHOUT affecting WOT?

    Nick

  8. #28

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    It would effect both, a leaking injector has much more impact at idle where very little fuel is wanted. An overly lean condition will cause huge miss fires on S/C'd motors at full throttle, a tiny bit of extra fuel will not. If you have someone with BUDS it's really handy for this. You can do 2 things with it that help a ton. One is you can (with engine off) request each injector to fire. it will fire a specific length of time and you can measure fuel. The other nicer thing is it, with engine running, will allow you to shut down 1 injector at a time. This will usually allow you to figure out which cylinder is at fault assuming it's just one.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandpiper View Post
    It would effect both, a leaking injector has much more impact at idle where very little fuel is wanted. An overly lean condition will cause huge miss fires on S/C'd motors at full throttle, a tiny bit of extra fuel will not. If you have someone with BUDS it's really handy for this. You can do 2 things with it that help a ton. One is you can (with engine off) request each injector to fire. it will fire a specific length of time and you can measure fuel. The other nicer thing is it, with engine running, will allow you to shut down 1 injector at a time. This will usually allow you to figure out which cylinder is at fault assuming it's just one.

    I do have BUDS but i dont think I will notice a difference between dropping cyl. I have removed the rail and turn over the motor aiming the fuel into a plastic container and streams visually look the same....

    My 2010 RXTX has no issue at higher RPM, only at idle. Do i buy a new rail with injectors or get them cleaned.....

  10. #30
    If you suspect leaking or clogged injectors just do yourself a favor and remove them and take them to get cleaned and flow tested itís like $20 each if they are good so $60 will save you a few hundred that a new set runs for, if you insist in a working set I have many just pm me .


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