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  1. #1

    FICHT Injector Problems

    Grrr! After new O-rings, battery, starter, new fuel, and fuel pump - still no joy. I removed plugs and slipped in a few q-tips beneath the injector tips during both normal starting and KADIAG static injector test (with fuel pump jumpered to "ON") to check for presence of fuel spray and I get nothing - q-tips are clean and dry. I can hear the "clicks" during static injector test but not getting any fuel through them. Shouldn't I see fuel even w/spark plugs removed or does the lack of vacuum/compression effect fuel delivery?

    Is there any kind of DIY cleaning method for the internals of the injectors? Chemtool soak? Ultrasonic bath? Anything?

    If not, has anyone *recently* used any of the mentioned Ficht injector services (i.e. Florida Injection or DFI Technologies) and can recommend either? ....or any others?


  2. #2
    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BusaPilot View Post
    Grrr! After new O-rings, battery, starter, new fuel, and fuel pump - still no joy. I removed plugs and slipped in a few q-tips beneath the injector tips during both normal starting and KADIAG static injector test (with fuel pump jumpered to "ON") to check for presence of fuel spray and I get nothing - q-tips are clean and dry. I can hear the "clicks" during static injector test but not getting any fuel through them. Shouldn't I see fuel even w/spark plugs removed or does the lack of vacuum/compression effect fuel delivery?

    Is there any kind of DIY cleaning method for the internals of the injectors? Chemtool soak? Ultrasonic bath? Anything?

    If not, has anyone *recently* used any of the mentioned Ficht injector services (i.e. Florida Injection or DFI Technologies) and can recommend either? ....or any others?
    What, specifically, is the year and model that you are working on? I'd suggest you start a new thread with specifics about your trouble in the subject line---rather than this one which is an unrelated problem.

    Have you measured and continued to monitor fuel pressure, at the Schrader valve (looks like a tire stem valve) in the fuel return line?

    What did you replace the fuel pump with? The so-called aftermarket direct replacements have proven to draw far too much current.

    I'd be really surprised if all your injectors were defective at the same time. If so, you can replace an injector and then edit the injector coefficients, in the EMM, utilizing the Ghost Installations software available for free down load here, in the stickies.

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  4. #3
    2000 Kawasaki 1100 STX DI.

    As stated earlier, these injectors appear to be nearly identical to the OP's including sizes for the 4 o-rings on the injectors. That's why I'm using this thread.

    No Schrader valve on this model but I do observe good flow from the regulator on the return line back to the tank. Also observed flow while all injectors removed (w/lines and electrical intact) but was later informed that this is not a good test - injectors must be mounted.

    Yes, I did use an "aftermarket" pump as I wasn't prepared to spend ~$500 for a complete OEM assembly. Excessive current draw should not be a problem (at this point) as I'm using a 2amp charger on the battery while testing and no significant drop in battery voltage has been observed.

    I would be interested in replacement injectors (I have no spares for testing) and will look into the "Ghost" S/W as I understand these must be mapped. I do have a working copy of the KADIAG S/W (running under Win10 and DosBox).

    Thanks for your reply!



    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    What, specifically, is the year and model that you are working on? I'd suggest you start a new thread with specifics about your trouble in the subject line---rather than this one which is an unrelated problem.

    Have you measured and continued to monitor fuel pressure, at the Schrader valve (looks like a tire stem valve) in the fuel return line?

    What did you replace the fuel pump with? The so-called aftermarket direct replacements have proven to draw far too much current.

    I'd be really surprised if all your injectors were defective at the same time. If so, you can replace an injector and then edit the injector coefficients, in the EMM, utilizing the Ghost Installations software available for free down load here, in the stickies.

  5. #4
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BusaPilot View Post
    Grrr! After new O-rings, battery, starter, new fuel, and fuel pump - still no joy. I removed plugs and slipped in a few q-tips beneath the injector tips during both normal starting and KADIAG static injector test (with fuel pump jumpered to "ON") to check for presence of fuel spray and I get nothing - q-tips are clean and dry. I can hear the "clicks" during static injector test but not getting any fuel through them. Shouldn't I see fuel even w/spark plugs removed or does the lack of vacuum/compression effect fuel delivery?

    Is there any kind of DIY cleaning method for the internals of the injectors? Chemtool soak? Ultrasonic bath? Anything?

    If not, has anyone *recently* used any of the mentioned Ficht injector services (i.e. Florida Injection or DFI Technologies) and can recommend either? ....or any others?
    As mentioned you should first verify fuel pressure. Then be aware that the FICHT injectors are not like "regular" fuel injectors and will not "spray" or operate properly unless mounted. It has even been said that you can damage the injectors by firing them unmounted. I cannot confirm or deny this. Also, they are designed to operate with around 45V, when you jumper the EMM on they only receive 12V from the battery. Clicking suggests they are operating properly however...

    Regarding EMM repairs (should you need it), I recommend Lakeside Tech. But I may be biased

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  7. #5
    martincom's Avatar
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    I'm not at all familiar with the Kawasaki, but understand they do utilize the same EMM. We have found major issues with the aftermarket replacement fuel pumps drawing far too much current, in excess of 7.0amps. The OEM Polaris pumps (built by Carter) only draw 2.0 amps. The excessive current draw of the aftermarket pump cause the fuel pump driver, within the EMM, to overheat. If you're lucky, this causes the overheat to be detected, generating an error code, and the fuel pump shutting down. If you're unlucky, Lakeside Tech can repair your EMM. Your 2.0 amp charger will have no impact on this.

    So I'd start by checking the current draw of your fuel pump.

  8. #6
    martincom's Avatar
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    Also, "good fuel flow" from a visual test is deceiving. When the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) falls off, in the tank, on the Polaris watercraft, they, typically, still have "good fuel flow" from a visual test, though the fuel pressure is very low. Tee-in a fuel pressure if you have to. Remember that great movie one liner from Under Seige III "Assumption is the mother of all screw ups."

  9. #7
    I guess I got lucky on an eBay fuel pump purchase (at least on the *current* draw spec). It measures 3 amps (yes, not bench test but actually pumping fuel through the rails, injectors, and regulator). For reference, it was this one here.

    Now, it's on to fuel *pressure* test. Any recommendations on a low cost (but accurate) in-line, "T" setup w/hose fittings that I could possibly leave installed? Manual states 28psi nominal. Can I put it anywhere after the filter and before the regulator? Remember, there's no Shrader valve on this ski.

    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    I'm not at all familiar with the Kawasaki, but understand they do utilize the same EMM. We have found major issues with the aftermarket replacement fuel pumps drawing far too much current, in excess of 7.0amps. The OEM Polaris pumps (built by Carter) only draw 2.0 amps. The excessive current draw of the aftermarket pump cause the fuel pump driver, within the EMM, to overheat. If you're lucky, this causes the overheat to be detected, generating an error code, and the fuel pump shutting down. If you're unlucky, Lakeside Tech can repair your EMM. Your 2.0 amp charger will have no impact on this.

    So I'd start by checking the current draw of your fuel pump.
    Last edited by BusaPilot; 07-08-2018 at 06:39 PM.

  10. #8
    martincom's Avatar
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    The link for your fuel pump source did not display.

    Here's a decent quality kit:

    https://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4480.aspx

    They have cheaper. Do a search on their web page for fuel pressure gauge and then sort from low to high price.

    You'll want to measure at the feed point of the injectors. The 28psi is what the injectors require.

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