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  1. #1
    Myself's Avatar
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    Twin 1.8 and one keeps shutting off

    Just thought I'd ask here before going through electrical while standing on my head. A customer brought a 2013 212x that runs fine for a while then starboard engine shuts off with a "low volts" light on the tach. It will start up and run again but shorter and shorter periods until it won't start. I'm leaning towards a stator issue but thought I could save some time if somebody has had this issue and there might be something else I should be looking for. Thanks.


  2. #2
    I have found that the 1.8's are very voltage sensitive. My 242LS has low voltage alarms on both batteries, as it came with a dual battery setup from the factory. I just replaced both batteries, as I too was draining them down quickly. And sure enough the batteries had a few years on them. This is not an issue now.

    I'm sure since you are in repair, you have done the basic stuff, so I think you are on the right page with a stator issue. One way to test would be to put in a new deep cycle (only as it may have a bit of a longer charge) for testing purposes. Be sure it has a full charge, and crank up the motors. And see if it keeps them running longer.

    Another is to be sure all third party items are removed from the equation, especially if it is a single battery setup, and aftermarket amps/stereo etc. For all you know, the amp is not setup to turn on with a remote power wire like it should and it's draining the cranking battery. If you don't pull those items and the voltage drops on the battery while running, you don't know if electronics are draining it, or if the stator is bad and not putting on a charge. Either way, these stators don't have enough output to maintain a charge on a system with loads of aftermarket electronics. Most of us have added multi-battery setups with multi-bank chargers to maintain a deep cycle bank for stereo and cranking battery for the motors.

    Everyone loves to trace down electrical issues. Start with a known good battery and eliminate the electronics from the equation. And report back.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
    Myself's Avatar
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    Got a voltage fegulator coming. Battery good, no faults found in diagnostics, both stators ohm good. Regulator on the starboard side reads open on the inputs, other one reads ohms. Don't know exactly what it should read but probably not open. Wires running into it also are somwewhat discolored.

  4. #4
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    Ok, customer took the boat out today and it did the same thing. Apparently it will run for 1/2 an hour or so then the starboard engine dies while display shows "low volts". Then it will start and run again for maybe 10 minutes then die. Then just a few minutes, then nothing. Also he said it wouldn't even crank, like a dead battery but they're both hooked up to the same battery. After a cool down period it will start right up again. Any ideas?????? Bad ground or power wire? Corrosion in the lanyard switch?? I'm open to suggestions.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Jet pump bearings seizing when they get warmed up?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Jet pump bearings seizing when they get warmed up?
    Well, I hadn't thought about that but when it shuts down it flashes "low volts".

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Well, I hadn't thought about that but when it shuts down it flashes "low volts".
    If the pump is seized the starter will load up and won't be able to crank the engine over. The display will show low volts because of the current draw from the starter motor. Have seen this happen when pump is seized by sucking up a length of rope! Would pay to clean all battery terminal connections if there is corrosion.

  8. #8
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    Ok guys, will check out the pump aon that side first, then move on to cleaning and checking grounds.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    ... checking grounds.
    Donít forget to remove and clean the engine end of the negative battery cable. Sometimes the connection can look ok on the outside and even be tight when checked with a wrench, but have corrosion underneath, in between the metal surfaces.

    Disconnect the cables at the battery, then remove and clean the engine ends of both cables. Make sure the grounding bolt and engine surface are also clean.

    You want clean metal to metal contact. After you get the problem resolved, smear some dielectric grease over the engine ground area to keep corrosion away.

  10. #10
    I would agree with that advice. I pulled all the battery cables and hit them with a sandpaper block to get them all looking like fresh polished copper. Many seemed to have corrosion on one surface or another. It's worth spending some time on those connectors.

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