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  1. #1

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    2002 virage i 800di starts then stops

    Looking for some advice. Have a 2002 virage 800di that was given to me to hopefully breathe some life into. the motor turns over and starts for a second then stops. when i try to start it again, the starter engages but the motor does not turn over. if i hit the start button 4-5 times, the engine will begin to turn over again. Is it possible there could be some sort of hydrolock going on that is stopping rotation? or is something binding somewhere?

    i think i'll start by removing the jet pump from the crank but does anybody else have other suggestions?

    thanks for your help!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Remove the jet pump from behind the hull. The driveshaft can then be removed, it just slides out. Sometimes the driveshaft can be a battle to pull out, but there is no fastener holding it into the engine coupler.

    Click my signature link for details on removing the jet pump, including a video example.

    With the jet pump removed, the engine should turn over easily, especially if the spark plugs are removed.

    If it continues to bind, there may be mechanical issues inside the engine or with the starter gear, flywheel, etc.

  3. #3

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    Thanks K447! i've read a LOT of your posts and one of yours said to remove the jet pump from the PTO just to rule that out so thats where i got the idea to start there. i'll get that disconnected and report back.

  4. #4

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    i removed the jet pump unit off the PTO and the engine doesn't seem to bind anymore. the shaft/impeller appears straight and rotates freely in the housing. in fact the impeller looks impeccable for being a 15 year old jet ski. maybe it was replaced at some point. does this point at possibly a bad drive shaft carrier bearing? the bearing appeared to have sufficient grease in it.

    also, once i got the ski started, i revved it up a little and then the ski RPM's went real high then died. Almost like it leaned out then ran out of gas. although i was able to start it up again so it does appear to be getting gas. the gas in it is very old, i'm guessing the ski hasn't been ran in about 4 years. i'm going to pump the gas out of the ski and replace with fresh gas. is there anything else i should check fuel related?

    also, should i be concerned about the oil system since its sat for a while? worth premixing the fresh gas i put back in the ski?

    Thanks again for your help!

  5. #5

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    oh and one other thing, i'm not super familiar with polaris ski's but i can't seem for the life of me to figure out where to hook it up to a garden hose. i hate running it too long for risk of over heating. is there something i'm missing to hook water up to it?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICURNVS View Post
    oh and one other thing, i'm not super familiar with polaris ski's but i can't seem for the life of me to figure out where to hook it up to a garden hose. i hate running it too long for risk of over heating. is there something i'm missing to hook water up to it?
    On a COLD engine you can run it for as much as 30 seconds. 20 seconds is plenty for most diagnostics though.

    See my signature links for how to connect a garden hose to the main water feed hose. That is 3/4" hose connected to jet pump, down low on right side of pump inlet tunnel. I disconnect the hose from the hull fitting and insert a 3/4" hose barb to garden hose adapter.

    You do not need huge water pressure to cool the engine, but more than a trickle.

    There is a specific sequence for running engine on garden hose.
    Engine Start FIRST
    Water on within 20 seconds or less
    Water OFF, THEN engine off within ten seconds or so.

    I usually blip the throttle a couple of times right after turning water off, to clear any excess water from the exhaust and water box. Then engine STOP.

  7. #7

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    with the jet pump unit removed, is there any reason i couldn't stick a barbed garden hose adapter into the line that sticks out the back of the ski?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICURNVS View Post
    with the jet pump unit removed, is there any reason i couldn't stick a barbed garden hose adapter into the line that sticks out the back of the ski?
    That works too.

    Just don't bugger up the plastic end on the water tube. There is an o-ring seal where it meets the jet nozzle tapered fitting.

  9. #9

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    saw the o-ring so i'll be careful not to mess the end of that tube up.

    any recommendations on my previous post concerning the drive shaft, and fuel system?

    Thanks again for your help!

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICURNVS View Post
    i removed the jet pump unit off the PTO and the engine doesn't seem to bind anymore. the shaft/impeller appears straight and rotates freely in the housing. in fact the impeller looks impeccable for being a 15 year old jet ski. maybe it was replaced at some point. does this point at possibly a bad drive shaft carrier bearing? the bearing appeared to have sufficient grease in it.

    also, once i got the ski started, i revved it up a little and then the ski RPM's went real high then died. Almost like it leaned out then ran out of gas. although i was able to start it up again so it does appear to be getting gas. the gas in it is very old, i'm guessing the ski hasn't been ran in about 4 years. i'm going to pump the gas out of the ski and replace with fresh gas. is there anything else i should check fuel related?

    also, should i be concerned about the oil system since its sat for a while? worth premixing the fresh gas i put back in the ski?

    Thanks again for your help!
    Have you read through the recommended maintenance links and threads?

    ... replace the old fuel hoses. Especially if they are the original gray Tempo fuel hoses. Not as bad as on the carb engines, but they do tend to get stiff with age. Be very careful with the plastic fuel fittings at the injectors. They are fragile if flexed to much.

    Drain the fuel tank and inspect inside. If there is water, dirt or gummy fuel deposits inside, the tank should be cleaned out.

    SOMETHING was binding the driveline. You need to figure what.

    The through-hull 'bearing assembly' is really just a bushing set that rides on the driveshaft. It does not support the driveshaft, it just keeps the seals aligned with the shaft as it spins, to keep water out of the assembly, and the hull.

    The through-hull is rebuildable, I would at least change the seals. Check the bushing for slop/play when on the driveshaft. Replace the bushings (teflon impregnated sintered metal sleeves) if there is any wobble where the bushings ride on the driveshaft.
    Last edited by K447; 04-17-2018 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Is Ficht, not carb ...

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