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  1. #11
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Have you read through the recommended maintenance links and threads?

    I would suggest rebuilding the carburetor, even if the engine 'seems' to run ok. These engines really do not like anything in the fuel system to be less than 100% good. So carb rebuild with OEM kit, new OEM fuel filter, maybe even change the fuel selector valve.

    While you have the carburetor off, replace the old fuel hoses. Especially if they are the original gray Tempo fuel hoses.

    Drain the fuel tank and inspect inside. If there is water, dirt or gummy fuel deposits inside, the tank should be cleaned out.

    SOMETHING was binding the driveline. You need to figure what.

    The through-hull 'bearing assembly' is really just a bushing set that rides on the driveshaft. It does not support the driveshaft, it just keeps the seals aligned with the shaft as it spins, to keep water out of the assembly, and the hull.

    The through-hull is rebuildable, I would at least change the seals. Check the bushing for slop/play when on the driveshaft. Replace the bushings (teflon impregnated sintered metal sleeves) if there is any wobble where the bushings ride on the driveshaft.
    DI Carb kits?!

    Lets see some pictures, I used to have that exact ski. We can get you sorted out.


  2. #12

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    LOL i thought i was missing something on this engine

  3. #13
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Haha! K447 is one of the go to people for these skis. No worries there.

    Technically.... there are throttle bodies to meter the air!

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Have you read through the recommended maintenance links and threads?

    I would suggest rebuilding the carburetor, even if the engine 'seems' to run ok. These engines really do not like anything in the fuel system to be less than 100% good. So carb rebuild with OEM kit, new OEM fuel filter, maybe even change the fuel selector valve.

    While you have the carburetor off, replace the old fuel hoses. Especially if they are the original gray Tempo fuel hoses.

    Drain the fuel tank and inspect inside. If there is water, dirt or gummy fuel deposits inside, the tank should be cleaned out.

    SOMETHING was binding the driveline. You need to figure what.

    The through-hull 'bearing assembly' is really just a bushing set that rides on the driveshaft. It does not support the driveshaft, it just keeps the seals aligned with the shaft as it spins, to keep water out of the assembly, and the hull.

    The through-hull is rebuildable, I would at least change the seals. Check the bushing for slop/play when on the driveshaft. Replace the bushings (teflon impregnated sintered metal sleeves) if there is any wobble where the bushings ride on the driveshaft.
    i've read through a lot of your tutorials in your signature (and on greenhulk.net) that i think apply to my machine but i am not sure if i came across the thread you are talking about. do you have a direct link to it?

    i think i'm going to focus on getting the engine running in tip top shape before i worry about the drive line.

    the fuel doesn't appear gummy but probably just old. i'm going to drain out as much gas as i possibly can and replace with fresh ethanol free.

    should i be concerned about the oiling system enough to premix the gasoline? is there a way to make sure the cylinders are getting oiled correctly?

  5. #15
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lilman573 View Post
    DI Carb kits?!

    ...
    Argh, forgot that this was a Ficht engine. Never mind on the carb stuff

  6. #16
    PWC Addict lilman573's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICURNVS View Post
    i've read through a lot of your tutorials in your signature (and on greenhulk.net) that i think apply to my machine but i am not sure if i came across the thread you are talking about. do you have a direct link to it?

    i think i'm going to focus on getting the engine running in tip top shape before i worry about the drive line.

    the fuel doesn't appear gummy but probably just old. i'm going to drain out as much gas as i possibly can and replace with fresh ethanol free.

    should i be concerned about the oiling system enough to premix the gasoline? is there a way to make sure the cylinders are getting oiled correctly?
    Definitely, get rid of that old gas. If you haven't already download the shop manual. It will show you how to adjust the oil pump. Just make sure there are no air bubbles in the lines and you are good to go.

  7. #17

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    getting rid of that old gas is definitely step one. i did get my hands on the manual but haven't gotten through all 400 pages quite yet i'll look into the oil pump chapter. i just want to make sure i'm not going to run the engine dry of oil.

  8. #18
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICURNVS View Post
    ... i'll look into the oil pump chapter. i just want to make sure i'm not going to run the engine dry of oil.
    Oil injection is mandatory on Ficht direct injection engines.

    And the oil system must be in good working order. Mostly that means all the hose clamps and oil hoses are good and the oil filter is not old.

    Oil in the fuel does not help the engine at all, as the fuel never goes anywhere near the crankcase bearings.

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  10. #19

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    was able to get a cylinder compression test done and a fuel pressure test done as well.

    Fuel Pressure tested at 20PSI by cranking the engine

    both cylinders tested at 120psi cranking

    according to K447's info, these appear to be within specs. still working on draining all the old gas out. of course the tank was near full

  11. #20

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    New update. Got all the fuel pumped out of the gas tank. Filled it with fresh ethanol free gas. Attempted to start it and it would fire intermittently but never fully start running. Pulled a spark plug and grounded it to the block. Cranked the engine and the spark plug didn't seem to spark consistently. Repeated the test with the other spark plug and wire and same thing. Thinking maybe the lr-503 may be preventing it from starting but I can't seem to find the module to bypass it. Where do they hide it inside the hull? Gonna switch out spark plugs also but I have to order those. Can't find a parts store that carries the exact ngk plugs

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