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  1. #21
    Sorry for not giving an update sooner.

    I sealed off the cooling system to prevent leaks through the oil cooler and intercooler and pumped CLR from the bottom up and let it sit for 30 minutes. Did three cycles of CLR and then a thorough rinse. Took it to the lake and no more issues.

    I’ve been rinsing and soaking with salt away after each ride, even though I’m on fresh water.

    The ski has been problem free and I’ve added 10 hours since the first issue. The thing runs like a top and is quicker than two other, newer, FX SHOs on the lake.

    Thanks for all your input! Going to run it and have a good time.

  2. #22

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    Glad you sorted it what is CLR? Might give mine a soaking and see if it improves, had it running flat out for as long as I could hold it last week and no overheat messages and little steam so seems to be cooling ok....

  3. #23
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Calcium Lime Rust (remover). I've used it on bare metal parts for restoration efforts, as it can be a bit harsh on software - talking some composite plastics, rubber and gasket material. Product concentration and time exposed go without saying. Just something to keep in the back of your mind ... and I'd tend to put this into the one-time / last resort category - aka not to be an added hack for routine flushing.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by bguard View Post
    Sorry for not giving an update sooner.

    I sealed off the cooling system to prevent leaks through the oil cooler and intercooler and pumped CLR from the bottom up and let it sit for 30 minutes. Did three cycles of CLR and then a thorough rinse. Took it to the lake and no more issues.

    I’ve been rinsing and soaking with salt away after each ride, even though I’m on fresh water.

    The ski has been problem free and I’ve added 10 hours since the first issue. The thing runs like a top and is quicker than two other, newer, FX SHOs on the lake.

    Thanks for all your input! Going to run it and have a good time.
    Having a similar issue with mine, I started a new thread for some advice but didn't spot this thread.
    I will have a look at the anode and check it out
    did you change the temp sensor in the end or was cleaning and changing the anode enough?

    Cheers
    Paul

  5. #25
    Hello all....I'm bad at forum-ing! Sorry for the delay, again! The CLR was a last option kind of move! I was about to be done with the thing!

    NEW UPDATE! Several months ago I got the dreaded over-temp limp mode and alarm, after I though it was all good! I was very fed up and was ready to create some high dollar Yamaha fish habitat. I decided to dig in to the engine to fully check the water jackets around the cylinders. Pulled the head and sure enough, cylinder 1 had a TON of gunk baked all around the cylinder, cylinder 2 had a light amount of gunk, cylinders 3 and 4 were clean. The gunk around cylinder 1 basically covered area of the front thermo-switch. Makes perfect sense that this area would overheat and trip the switch, resulting in the limp mode. Water jackets in the head were clean.

    I cleaned the water jackets, put in a new thermostat, new air filter, new anode, new gaskets, new spark plugs, and basically replaced or cleaned everything I touched. I put in a ribbon delete while I had it apart. The engine went back together easily and I was excited to RIDE!

    Ski started right up, idled, and responded to quick throttle blips very well. YDS had no faults or codes and the temp held right where you'd expect it to be for running on the hose.

    First test ride on the lake...took a few minutes to warm the ski up and started riding like normal. Plenty of power, full RPM range, ski was running great! I came to the first no wake, bridge overpass, put the ski in no wake mode. After about a minute of no wake mode it felt like the RPMs dropped a bit but I didn't think much of it. When I went to launch after the no wake zone the ski bogged and coughed a bit then launched with normal power.

    I replicated the condition several times. It felt as if it were "loading up" at low RPM and had to clear extra fuel before running smoothly.

    I replaced the plugs and removed the ribbon delete and went back for another test run. Same story, after long idle periods it just stumbles, coughs, clears, and runs fine at high RPM. Still no codes/faults on YDS.

    I'm at a loss.....I'm going to start a new thread for the new issues and if there's no easy fix I'm selling it at a loss. Anyone have any thoughts?

  6. #26
    Hitch007's Avatar
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    Hi guys, I got that same over heating buzzer at weekend, stuck about 6 miles from ramp, any how got home pulled termo and looks and operates perfectly, back flushed all lines, all 3 pissers working even on hose, next is sensors, would you have any pictures of where they are located, I know where exhaust one is,but donít know about rest?? have experience pulling things apart, fit ribbon delete, fit prop etc,
    thanks in advance

    Al




    Quote Originally Posted by HDAV View Post
    Yeah it was a pain I kept pulling testing refitting the sensors and then having the issues finally order new one and all done until the exhaust temp sensor followed a month later.......I bought a new one straight away that was 30+ hours ago


  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hitch007 View Post
    Hi guys, I got that same over heating buzzer at weekend, stuck about 6 miles from ramp, any how got home pulled termo and looks and operates perfectly, back flushed all lines, all 3 pissers working even on hose, next is sensors, would you have any pictures of where they are located, I know where exhaust one is,but don’t know about rest?? have experience pulling things apart, fit ribbon delete, fit prop etc,
    thanks in advance

    Al
    locations are on the OEM parts diagram the likely one is near the rear of the motor intake side next to the anode mine tested in spec but since replaced has been fine I also ended up replacing the exhaust one shortly afterwards

    to get to rear sensor best to take the enngine ground block out and the oil hose above then you can get a stubby open spanner on it I can’t recall the size but 17mm rings a bell a bought a set of stubby combination spanner’s which come in handy for the ski now. Might need to remove the anode to get a better angle on sensor and you need to disconnect it from loom before you start orange black wire iirc.

  8. #28
    Hitch007's Avatar
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    Cheers for that, would it be easier to pull intake manifold off?

  9. #29
    Hitch007's Avatar
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    Well it looks like “no 19” OEM diagram thermo sensor in head, as you said HDAV! Corroding all around wires at head.

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  11. #30
    Hitch007's Avatar
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    Hopefully this is it, but it sure looks like it.
    sorry for hi jack of thread and thanks again lads for info.
    as always the best jetski go to on the Net!!
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    Last edited by Hitch007; 06-26-2019 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Add script

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