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  1. #21
    xdrian's Avatar
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    2014 Spark Taking on lots of Water Near Bellow

    I was thinking
    Could you get the old crank machined to fit the new pto
    Of course a lot of work first time but then

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by xdrian View Post
    I was thinking
    Could you get the old crank machined to fit the new pto
    Of course a lot of work first time but then
    I bet you could, but it'd probably be cheaper to just put a 2016 crank unless you have machining equipment available haha

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  4. #23
    im going to try your idea with the jb weld first then if that doesnt work go with the stainless sleeve.

  5. #24
    Myself's Avatar
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    Surely these folks could help out with a solution.

    https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eve/index.html

  6. #25
    100 MILES OF HEAVEN AND I AM SMACK IN THE MIDDLE KEYZBUM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    Surely these folks could help out with a solution.

    https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...eve/index.html
    i wasted so much time emailing speedi sleeve people with NO help.
    I ended up doing the JB Weld and it is now dry inside for the first time in years.
    Last edited by KEYZBUM; 05-21-2019 at 10:41 PM.

  7. #26
    Thor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KEYZBUM View Post
    i wasted so much time emailing speedi sleeve people with NO help. I ended up doing the JB Weld and it is now dry inside for the first time in years.
    Rrrrrrr, that is frustrating (if not infuriating)! Geez, since I literally patched a hole worn through the side of a metal tub in a machine clothes washer (that held for over another half decade! :-O, I didn’t think JB Weld could go in higher in my regard or opinion. Awesome stuff!


  8. #27

  9. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Player Four View Post
    My SeaDoo Spark is taking on a lot of water in a short amount of time. About 4 gallons in 20 minutes of hard riding. There are no leaks in the hull and the drain plug was in and sealed. I got the ski home and ran it on the hose with the top propped open and did not see any water leaks from cooling lines or the water box.
    So I took the ski to the boat ramp yesterday with the top off to let it float with the pump submerged to see if I could find a leak, and I did. There was a steady stream of water. About .5 L in 20 minutes with the ski off and just floating. I assume the leak is much worse when the ski is running in the water.
    The leak was coming from the area around the drive shaft bellow, but didn't look to be actually coming out of the bellow. To me it looks like it's coming from the metal cover on the engine side of the bellow.
    I've attached a picture that was taken with my phone on the bottom of the hull pointing up. It was a tight squeeze so quality isn't that great. Inside the blue box is the steady stream of water.

    Any ideas as to what the issue could be before I tear down / order parts?

    Link to image
    https://i.imgur.com/HkL3WBU.jpg

    Attachment 423192
    I've noticed a lot of people are having problems with the 2014 to 2016 Sea-Doo Sparks operating in saltwater and having corrosion on the end of the crankshaft call Zane tattoo seals meant to keep water from entering the bilge through the weep holes and the top and bottom of the crankshaft PTO cover. I was surprised not to find any remedies out there Beyond replacing the crankshaft. I did find one guy that said he used J-B weld on the crankshaft applying thin layers in sanding in between wood fine sandpaper to rebuild up the missing material on the crankshaft after taking off the rust. What I didn't understand was why they sleeve hadn't been developed to fit over the crankshaft, so I found my own remedy which I think will last as long has original. I cleaned up the crankshaft down to the metal removing all rust with a 3M buffing wheel on a Pneumatic angle drill. I've been cleaned it up a little bit more using Emery cloth. Then I purchased two CR SPEEDI Sleeve #99128 and installed and the exact area where the two water seals make contact with the crankshaft. Because these are meant to press on, there was not enough material left on the crankshaft for a tight press, I applied then using J-B Weld after ensuring both surfaces were cleaned using brake parts cleaner. I also took a small Dremel with a tiny cutting wheel on it and made a few Criss-Cross pattern hash marks in the crankshaft and on the inside of the sleeves to ensure the J-B Weld would hold. If the corrosion extends all the way to the innermost part of the crankshaft causing the inner oil seal not to seal perfectly you could purchase a third sleeve and do the same thing on the inner part of the crankshaft. Once I gave that 24 hours to dry I applied A thin layer of JB Weld on either side of the sleeves as an extra measure to ensure that they would not move in or out. I made sure that it was thin enough not to affect the seal sliding over the crankshaft and when it dried I carefully sanded it smooth with fine Emery cloth

  10. #29
    I already sent the video but apparently you do not want to see it. This is the simplest and most reliable recovery solution.
    It is necessary to make a sleeve on a lathe. The sizes I wrote. And buy the gland dimensions are also indicated. Seal the sleeve on the shaft with a sealant. The sleeve is made of a material not subject to corrosion.
    Sleeve Dimensions:
    internal 31.95 mm
    outer 35.00 mm


    Oil Seals:
    Two Piece 35/47/7
    One 35/52/7

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