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  1. #1
    Nuckin Futs TwzteD's Avatar
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    Gp1800 Cooling system upgrade recomendations

    Ok, so my next upgrade to my ski will be the cooling system, now im not sure what route to take, there's not many but, what does everyone recommend? I have the stock I/C and plan to keep it for a little while at least, I would prefer to run a dedicated line to the cooler itself, however I ride in salt and would still like to flush it. I would also like to add additional cooling to the engine via anode fitting, should I Buy the Riva kit? or buy each part and buy my own hose.. Would it be better instead of buying the Riva single strainer, buy a dual strainer? what size is the stock hose and what size is the riva hose? 1/2? not sure what route is best to take. Am I correct that the Riva cooling kit only provides extra cooling to the engine by increasing the inside hose diameter and some fittings with the addition of the extra line to the anode fitting? Thanks for any helpful info.


    Also, for anyone who has tested both the Riva ride plate and Deans extended w/ jims cut what is faster/better? I ride in choppy water most of the time.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Dg1148's Avatar
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    Gp1800 Cooling system upgrade recomendations

    I ran a dedicated line to IC and ran all new hoses 5/8Ē to the IC and to the motor and replaced the gay ass 4 way splitter with a larger 3 way so I can still use the flush system and provide better flow to the motor. Mine runs plenty cool with that setup in the Texas heat. To flush the IC just add a fitting in the line to fit an additional flush line for the IC only. Used the riva single strainer kit and utilized the oem bailer system thru Hull for the dedicated IC line. I donít have the syphone thing in my nozzle so the bailer system is useless anyways

  3. #3
    Nuckin Futs TwzteD's Avatar
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    what splitter did you use and what brand hose did you use? I thought the upgraded hose was 1/2 id and stock was 5/8? did you see and gains from running dedicated like to the cooler?

  4. #4
    Dg1148's Avatar
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    Gp1800 Cooling system upgrade recomendations

    I made my own 3 way from brass with fittings from Home Depot. 3 way fitting with screw in barbs on the end. I just used heater hose from autozone. All you need. I did the dedicated line and fizzle instal all at the same time so I canít comment on the gains. But any that has done it to the stock cooler has noticed better performance. Itís a huge help honestly and should be done. Hereís the 3 way fitting I made. Itís sits nicely and perfect hose alignment. Pulled it out some for the pic Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Nuckin Futs TwzteD's Avatar
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    thanks for the input. Probally going this route.



    1) new jet pump strainer cover plate with single fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2530

    2) 1/2" double barbed through hull fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2486

    3) 1/2" heater hose. run 1/2" line from the pump strainer to the hull fitting. Then, inside the hull run the 1/2" line to the intercooler inlet. The intercooler outlet is a 5/8" barb that goes to the 5/8" Y fitting, which splits into the 2 factory exit pisser fittings.

    4) Connect original oem I/C Hose to worx anode fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607

    How restrictive is the stock 4 way? i drilled mine out more than what the rive basic riva kit says.

    Will this provide enough cooling to run a stage 1 plus reliably without heat issues?
    I know they say all you need is a basic cooling kit for stage 1 plus but I know someone who overheated and melted piston with a stage 1 And i live in Florida the water is always hot, so I want more water. This whole setup would be less than 150$
    Last edited by TwzteD; 10-15-2017 at 11:20 AM.

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  7. #6
    Dg1148's Avatar
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    That was my original plan since I live in Texas and heat and humidity is a killer here. But was told my setup was all I need since I only ride rivers and lakes and the river I live on, the water is constant 70*. I was advised against additional cooling inputs because too much cooling wouldnít allow the motor to operate at optimal temps. But being your salt in that could be different. I think that would be a great setup for you.

  8. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dg1148 View Post
    I made my own 3 way from brass with fittings from Home Depot. 3 way fitting with screw in barbs on the end. ... perfect hose alignment. ... Click image for larger version. 

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    Are you sure this will properly flush the engine? The factory X fitting directs/angles the flush hose water flow towards the engine.

    I suspect the simple T fitting will not provide the same water flow and pressure towards the engine, but direct at least 1/2 the flow towards the jet pump.

    Why use a heavy brass metal T? Nylon/plastic would seem less likely to slam around during rough riding and potentially damage nearby materials.

    A Y fitting would seem more appropriate, no?



    Update: This seems even better.

    Yamaha 60E-12581-00

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by K447; 10-15-2017 at 03:55 PM.

  9. #8

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    Dont waste ur time bro just take ur stock anode and hole it in the center install 90 digree fitting and conect it to pump spout that set if u want pics send me pm

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  11. #9
    Dg1148's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Are you sure to will properly flush the engine? The factory X fitting directs/angles the flush hose water flow towards the engine.

    I suspect the simple T fitting will not provide the same water flow and pressure towards the engine, but direct at least 1/2 the flow towards the jet pump.

    Why use a heavy brass metal T? Nylon/plastic T would seem less likely to slam around during rough riding and potentially damage nearby materials. A Y fitting would seem more appropriate, no?

    Hmmm very valid point. Did not understand the reason they had the awkward angle of the flush hose like that. Thatís why I want with a brass fitting. To eliminate that awkward angle, and because it had a larger flow thru opening. But since I ride fresh water only, the only time I use the flush kit it to run it o the hose to verify everything is ok after a modification or oil change or something before loading it into the water. Thanks for that clarification on the angle purpose of that fitting

  12. #10
    Nuckin Futs TwzteD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mahmoodalmarkhi View Post
    Dont waste ur time bro just take ur stock anode and hole it in the center install 90 digree fitting and conect it to pump spout that set if u want pics send me pm
    Well tapping the stock anode would save a few bucks, but still want a dedicated line to the inter cooler. id rather just but the worx anode fitting so i don't have to find a tap that fits etc. Its always hot in florida even during the winter so I want all the cooling I can get.

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