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  1. #21
    Dg1148's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What model is that part normally used on?

    What is the ID of the flow path?
    Itís for the VXR or non supercharged motors that donít need an additional outlet for IC


  2. #22
    SpeedJunky's Avatar
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    Used I believe on all NA 1800 Yamaha's
    For example a 2017 FX HO

    ID = .4925" (12.5mm)


    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What model is that part normally used on?

    What is the ID of the flow path?

  3. #23
    Nuckin Futs TwzteD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedJunky View Post
    Used I believe on all NA 1800 Yamaha's
    For example a 2017 FX HO

    ID = .4925" (12.5mm)

    is that larger than the stock 4 way?

  4. #24
    Nuckin Futs TwzteD's Avatar
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    since i haven't really got a answer, will this setup work well? as good as the riva setup? or should I buy the riva cooling kit for 250 instead of this...?


    1) new jet pump strainer cover plate with single fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2530

    2) 1/2" double barbed through hull fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2486

    3) 1/2" heater hose. run 1/2" line from the pump strainer to the hull fitting. Then, inside the hull run the 1/2" line to the intercooler inlet. The intercooler outlet is a 5/8" barb that goes to the 5/8" Y fitting, which splits into the 2 factory exit pisser fittings.

    4) Connect original oem I/C Hose to worx anode fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607



    Will this setup be sufficient or do I spend the 250 instead on the riva kit ?

  5. #25
    SpeedJunky's Avatar
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    I do not have a stock "X" fitting to measure.
    Maybe someone could measure one to compare.

    Quote Originally Posted by TwzteD View Post
    is that larger than the stock 4 way?

  6. #26
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dg1148 View Post
    Itís for the VXR or non supercharged motors that donít need an additional outlet for IC
    This raises a good point. When thinking about modifications, it can be useful to start by looking through Yamahaís own parts lists. Not just from other models of the current model year, but other models from older years. Sometimes a very nice solution is already available.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...0E-12581-00-00

  7. #27

    How do you hook up the output lines with this cooling kit to stock ic? Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by TwzteD View Post
    thanks for the input. Probally going this route.



    1) new jet pump strainer cover plate with single fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2530

    2) 1/2" double barbed through hull fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2486

    3) 1/2" heater hose. run 1/2" line from the pump strainer to the hull fitting. Then, inside the hull run the 1/2" line to the intercooler inlet. The intercooler outlet is a 5/8" barb that goes to the 5/8" Y fitting, which splits into the 2 factory exit pisser fittings.

    4) Connect original oem I/C Hose to worx anode fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607

    How restrictive is the stock 4 way? i drilled mine out more than what the rive basic riva kit says.

    Will this provide enough cooling to run a stage 1 plus reliably without heat issues?
    I know they say all you need is a basic cooling kit for stage 1 plus but I know someone who overheated and melted piston with a stage 1 And i live in Florida the water is always hot, so I want more water. This whole setup would be less than 150$
    How do you hook up the output lines with this cooling kit to stock ic? Thanks

  8. #28
    JFizzleJR's Avatar
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    This is the same way the Fizzle Cooling Kit runs. Only difference is it comes with a fitting to drill and tap the engine anode spot instead of a bolt on piece. The full kit is only $89 in the greenhulk store.

    Quote Originally Posted by TwzteD View Post
    since i haven't really got a answer, will this setup work well? as good as the riva setup? or should I buy the riva cooling kit for 250 instead of this...?


    1) new jet pump strainer cover plate with single fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2530

    2) 1/2" double barbed through hull fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2486

    3) 1/2" heater hose. run 1/2" line from the pump strainer to the hull fitting. Then, inside the hull run the 1/2" line to the intercooler inlet. The intercooler outlet is a 5/8" barb that goes to the 5/8" Y fitting, which splits into the 2 factory exit pisser fittings.

    4) Connect original oem I/C Hose to worx anode fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607



    Will this setup be sufficient or do I spend the 250 instead on the riva kit ?

  9. +1 by:


  10. #29

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    That will work perfectly and is how I am doing two we have, except I am adding a strainer in the line to I/C and I added the Fizzle flush kit to the Fizzle. Very nice kit and cheaper than the parts separately in my opinion.

    Quote Originally Posted by TwzteD View Post
    since i haven't really got a answer, will this setup work well? as good as the riva setup? or should I buy the riva cooling kit for 250 instead of this...?


    1) new jet pump strainer cover plate with single fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2530

    2) 1/2" double barbed through hull fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=2486

    3) 1/2" heater hose. run 1/2" line from the pump strainer to the hull fitting. Then, inside the hull run the 1/2" line to the intercooler inlet. The intercooler outlet is a 5/8" barb that goes to the 5/8" Y fitting, which splits into the 2 factory exit pisser fittings.

    4) Connect original oem I/C Hose to worx anode fitting
    https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607



    Will this setup be sufficient or do I spend the 250 instead on the riva kit ?

  11. #30
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwzteD View Post
    . . . . (snip)
    1) new jet pump strainer cover plate with single fitting

    2) 1/2" double barbed through hull fitting

    3) 1/2" heater hose. run 1/2" line from the pump strainer to the hull fitting. Then, inside the hull run the 1/2" line to the intercooler inlet. The intercooler outlet is a 5/8" barb that goes to the 5/8" Y fitting, which splits into the 2 factory exit pisser fittings.

    4) Connect original oem I/C Hose to worx anode fitting
    I donít know. . . but the way I understand how coolant circulates through the engine, turning the anode into another supply seems like it would negatively affect the OEM port-side supplies. Seems (IMHO) to make way more sense (alt vendor-supported option) to configure it as a discharge. Hereís why :

    OEM:
    The cylinder block's water-jacket is supplied from the port side water manifold cover, and the blockís exit is upward into the head's jacket via the multiple head gasket passageways. The head - aside from receiving tempered coolant from the cyl block below - gets most of its coolant temper-supplied from the port side exhaust water jacket via several tiny bleed holes in the exhaust gasket. All coolant in the head then flows aft out the headís thermostat. So the oemís established circulation through the engine is fundamentally port-up-aft-out. And we all already know that the t-stat dictates how much coolant goes through the engine at any given time. So for this mental-exercise, for every ounce that t-stat allows to exit, a new ounce re-enters the engine from a) port-side cyl block, and b) port side exhaust manifold - with ďbĒ making-up the majority of if.

    Aftermarket mod:
    When a new, c) anode supply is added on the stbd side cyl block (opposing side) ... the so-called replacement ounce mentioned above is now being contributed by three inlet sources. Due its greater efficiencies, "c" will likely be the biggest contributor of that so-called ounce, logically slowing down these oem port side supplies. Making maters worst, due to it being just inches below the coolant exit, ďcĒ is like just going to enter, flow up, and quickly exit.

    Anode discharge Ė alt configuration:
    So rather than setting-up a counter-flow against the OEMís designed flow pattern, Iíd rather complement it in order to increase overall inlet and outlet flow rates. Again, I agree with actions 1-3 in the above post, but for 4, Iíd configure the anode barb as a discharge. That means I would cap (aka not use) the former IC coolant line (or maybe route it to the oil cooler as a dedicated supply). Then install a new hose (with itís own in-line t-stat) from the anode barb straight to an overboard pisser. This would give the motor two shared coolant exits - one for the cyl block, and another for the head. Furthermore, since this makes the coolant exit path no-longer the loopís bottleneck, I might also slightly enlarge those coolant bleeder pin-holes that are built into the exhaust manifold gasket to offer increased head supply rates. Both the oem and inline t-stats will keep the engine at ideal combustion temps, yet if/when demands call, the head and block can now grab a big gulp of coolant.

    Is anyone else running the anode part in this alternative configuration?

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