GP1800, extending the grease fitting for driveshaft intermediate bearing

[K447]

On the GP1800 the Zerk grease fitting for the intermediate bearing is hidden/buried below the electrical panel. Virtually impossible to see the grease fitting, let alone fit a grease gun. To get to the stock grease location involves removing the four bolts holding the electrical panel and pushing the panel forward. Even then, it is awkward to fit a grease gun down there.

I added a flexible grease hose and mounted a remote grease fitting at the top of the mid-wall. This allows adding grease without touching the electrical panel.

This what the finished installation looks like, before the electrical panel is put back in place.



Method I used;

Disconnect battery negative cable (for safety while working near the electrical panel)

Remove seat support frame - five bolts with nuts underneath. Do not drop any nuts or washers into the hull

Remove front cover for electrical panel. Release the slide latches, then remove cover from hull.

Tip: I permanently removed my electrical panel front cover, packed it in a storage bin. It greatly impedes access to the electrical gear, such as fuses. If you have a MaptunerX, deleting the cover eases access to the ECU plugs.

Remove the four bolts holding electrical panel to mid-wall. Outside corners of the panel.

Lift and move the electrical panel forward and upwards. The cables bundles will limit how far it will move. I used a bungee cord to hold the electrical panel forward while I worked on the grease fitting.

Now you can see the factory Zerk grease fitting on the driveshaft bearing housing.

Remove the tiny grease fitting.


Update: Another member pointed out that the OEM threads are metric 6mm.

Using a metric fitting should avoid the need to tap the intermediate bearing housing to US inch NPT.

Fitting Reducer Metric 1/8" NPT Female to M6 M6X1 Male Gauge Adapter 90 Degree Elbow
https://www.fittings.space/gbm2p-02zf-m6x10m-90

Note: Text below is how I did the original install, using a NON-metric grease adapter fitting.
If you use the metric threaded fitting you will probably will not need to thread tap the housing.

For this project I used a Lincoln 20024 adapter fitting (purchased via Amazon.com). The female threads are 'straight', which works, but is a tighter fit than proper tapered NPT threads.

With hindsight, next time I would try the Alemite 51942
1/4”-28 Taper Thread (SAE-LT)(m)
1/8” NPTF(f)
http://www.alemite.com/catalog/detai...ories_straight

[K447]

Update: Another member pointed out that the OEM threads are metric 6mm.

Using a metric fitting should avoid the need to tap the intermediate bearing housing to US inch NPT.

Fitting Reducer Metric 1/8" NPT Female to M6 M6X1 Male Gauge Adapter 90 Degree Elbow
https://www.fittings.space/gbm2p-02zf-m6x10m-90



Fitting Reducer Metric 1/8" NPT Female to M6 M6X1 Male Gauge Adapter
https://www.fittings.space/gbm2p-02zf-m6x10m




I will leave the following original post below for reference.

I found that the factory threads in the bearing housing were a bit too tight to allow the adapter to thread in. I used a straight 1/4-28 thread tap to re-thread the hole, since I did not have the proper tapered thread tap on hand.



There is risk of some aluminum chips falling inside the housing. I did not want to disturb the factory alignment of the bearing, and frankly, was too lazy to do the work to remove the bearing just to thread tap with the hole facing downwards. A thin film of grease on the thread tap catches the metal chips.

Tapping will be slow going since the clearance to the mid-wall is so tight. I used an Irwin Adjustable Tap Socket, which allowed me to extend the tap with a 3/8 wobble end extension, and use a hand spinner from above the mid-wall top edge.



Remove the tap every couple of turns, clean off the metal chips, regrease and thread tap a bit more. No need to go super deep, you just need enough threads to properly seat the hose adapter. When finished tapping, I inserted the nozzle from a compressed gas duster can fairly far into the bearing housing and then blew any loose chips up and out of the hole.

Note: I was surprised at how little factory grease was present inside the bearing housing. Certainly not 'filled' with grease at the factory.

[2fast4u]

FYI this grease fitting only needs one to two pumps of grease ONCE a year! You are not greasing the bearing (they are sealed) all you are doing is greasing the sealing lips of the seal to the shaft. Over greasing this fitting WILL push the seal out of the housing. Tommy Jordan

[WFO]

You can also steal the remote grease zerk setup from GPRs and early FX, FZ

This is from an 09 FZ into a 16 FZ

[K447]

I recommend using a street elbow 90 degree adapter to connect the hose to the grease fitting.
1/8" NPT male to 1/8" NPT female, right angle 90.

You want dimension 'A' to be as small as possible. There is very little clearance to the mid-wall and you need to be able to turn the fitting to screw it into the bearing housing.



For this installation I used a regular 90 and it was more difficult.

Screw the street elbow into the Alemite or Lincoln adapter, tighten to 'very snug'.

Now insert the assembly into the bearing housing and tighten into place. Be careful to not over torque, these are small threads going into aluminum. Strip the bearing housing threads and you will not be happy.

Finish turning so the female opening is facing the right side of the watercraft, parallel to the mid-wall.

Thread the grease gun extension hose into the street elbow and tighten. Again, be careful to not over stress the little 1/4" adapter going into the bearing housing. Put a wrench on the hose and another on the street elbow. Torque to very snug, carefully.

This is what it looks like when assembled.



The 90 degree turn is needed to clear the electrical panel, which has a molded bulge in the back, inconveniently right above the grease fitting.

[K447]

I used an 18 inch long flexible hose, sold for use with grease guns. 1/8" NPT male on both ends.



On the upper end of the hose I installed a female to female 1/8" NPT coupler.

Mark and drill a hole for the hose threaded end to fit through. I choose to have the coupler mounted above the mid-wall but you could also position the coupler below the mid-wall lip and just have the grease Zerk above.

Make sure the hole for grease Zerk does not interfere with the electrical panel top brackets, which extend over the top of the mid-wall.



Angled grease fitting should make it easier to attach grease gun with the seat base reinstalled.

Finished, it looks like this. Rubber dust cap on the grease Zerk.



The visible electrical cord is a battery charge pigtail lead (fused). I tuck the capped cable end under the panel top flap when not in use.

[K447]

You can also steal the remote grease zerk setup from GPRs and early FX, FZ ...

Will that fit on GP1800, with the electrical panel in the way?

[K447]

FYI this grease fitting only needs one to two pumps of grease ONCE a year!

You are not greasing the bearing (they are sealed) all you are doing is greasing the sealing lips of the seal to the shaft.

Over greasing this fitting WILL push the seal out of the housing. Tommy Jordan

Since the factory 'fill' inside the housing is not 'full', how much grease needs to be added to get it to the optimal amount?

When squeezing the grease gun, how does one gauge whether there is room for more grease?

There will also be some air trapped inside the housing, which presumably you want to slowly push out past the shaft seals.

[K447]

This post and this video provided a starting point for my project.



I decided to use all threaded hose connections, no hose barbs and hose clamps.

[WFO]

Will that fit on GP1800, with the electrical panel in the way?

yup

you just route it thru the waterbox hole