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  1. #1

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    2002 Polaris Virage Red Domestic Engine No spark - Need help

    Hi,
    I have had this ski since new and only been used in fresh water with only a few problems that I have been able to solve with help of this forum but I am stumped now. I finally got a chance to get to use this season but have no spark on both plugs. Ski was running great last fall when I fogged the cylinders, removed battery etc for end of season( seem procedure that I have used for 13 years). I have the service manual and performed the quick troubleshooting from page 7.30 - 7.35.

    1. What should the voltage on the Blk/W wires to primary side of the coil be when cranking ?? I get 0.2V DC during cranking than 25V to 28V DC immediately when cranking stops. I understand these wires should have pulses to cause the spark but not quite ready to drag an oscilloscope to the boat dock.

    2. Can someone post the link to the diagnostic steps for no spark. There are multiple references to this but I could not find it in the Tech tips forum.

    3. What does pressing the bilge button (small blue button,above the start button) while cranking with lanyard in place do ?

    I would like to step through the this forum's diagnostic steps carefully to identify my problem.


    Diagnostic

    Between Spark plug caps 8.12K ohms
    Inside spark plug caps to engine stud OPEN > 2 meg ohm
    Ignition coil primary 0.4 ohms
    Ignition coil secondary - out of circuit 3000 ohms [higher than spec but do not expect this to cause *no* spark]
    Blk/Y at LR-505 3.4V DC when cranking
    Removed Gray to CDI - no spark
    BTW, there is no corrosion in the ebox.


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    Colleyville, Texas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lake_guy View Post
    Hi,
    I have had this ski since new and only been used in fresh water with only a few problems that I have been able to solve with help of this forum but I am stumped now. I finally got a chance to get to use this season but have no spark on both plugs. Ski was running great last fall when I fogged the cylinders, removed battery etc for end of season( seem procedure that I have used for 13 years). I have the service manual and performed the quick troubleshooting from page 7.30 - 7.35.

    1. What should the voltage on the Blk/W wires to primary side of the coil be when cranking ?? I get 0.2V DC during cranking than 25V to 28V DC immediately when cranking stops. I understand these wires should have pulses to cause the spark but not quite ready to drag an oscilloscope to the boat dock.

    2. Can someone post the link to the diagnostic steps for no spark. There are multiple references to this but I could not find it in the Tech tips forum.

    3. What does pressing the bilge button (small blue button,above the start button) while cranking with lanyard in place do ?

    I would like to step through the this forum's diagnostic steps carefully to identify my problem.


    Diagnostic

    Between Spark plug caps 8.12K ohms
    Inside spark plug caps to engine stud OPEN > 2 meg ohm
    Ignition coil primary 0.4 ohms
    Ignition coil secondary - out of circuit 3000 ohms [higher than spec but do not expect this to cause *no* spark]
    Blk/Y at LR-505 3.4V DC when cranking
    Removed Gray to CDI - no spark
    BTW, there is no corrosion in the ebox.
    https://sites.google.com/site/polari...t-things-to-do

    Try this link has a ton of info. Test the stator

    Sent from my SM-G955U using GreenHulk PWC Performance mobile app powered by Tapatalk

  3. #3

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    A strong battery is important. Even if it has a good cranking speed the voltage cannot drop below 10.6v WHILE cranking or it will not start. That is usually the first thing to check, it has caught many people out.
    Regards Brian

    Sent from my SM-G930F using GreenHulk PWC Performance mobile app powered by Tapatalk
    Last edited by bop; 09-02-2017 at 04:50 AM.

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  5. #4
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bop View Post
    A strong battery is important. Even if it has a good cranking speed the voltage cannot drop below 10.6v WHILE cranking or it will not start. That is usually the first thing to check, it has caught many people out.
    Regards Brian

    Sent from my SM-G930F using GreenHulk PWC Performance mobile app powered by Tapatalk
    Agree. Don't even bother with anything else until you know for a fact that you have a minimum of 10.6V while cranking. And please don't say, "But the battery is new" or, "the battery is fully charged". It must be checked with a meter, while cranking, and it must be a bare minimum of 10.6V. Let us know.

  6. #5

    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Central North Carolina
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    Thanks for the replies.
    I was using the specifications from the attachment that K447 has in post #4 of this thread "How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Hall Effect sensors on domestic engines " http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=97491. The cranking voltage is listed as > 9.5V DC. I remember the voltage was around 10.45V. I will recheck between the Orange[Red/Purple] and black in the ebox next weekend and post results. Fortunately I have a couple of nice Fluke meters to use. Hope this is the problem. Budget is not ready for a new stator or CDI.

  7. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lake_guy View Post
    ...

    I was using the specifications from the attachment that K447 has in post #4 of this thread "How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Hall Effect sensors on domestic engines " http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=97491.
    The cranking voltage is listed as > 9.5V DC.

    I remember the voltage was around 10.45V.

    I will recheck between the Orange[Red/Purple] and black in the ebox next weekend and post results. ...
    Thank you for pointing that out.

    The information in the attached PDF via that link is INCORRECT.



    The Polaris red carburetor engines require a lot more than 9.5 volts while cranking. The minimum voltage you want to have while cranking is at least 10.6 volts. At the battery posts. And at the CDI itself (Red/Purple and Black wires into CDI module).

    10.45 volts while cranking is really, really borderline, and probably not quite enough.
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