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  1. #21
    Gus13letter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    BTW, this is what happens if you use 5200 on a transom plate & need to remove it again later. Heat, crank, pound....rinse & repeat. Then after it's off, you can look forward to another couple hours of applying marine Debond, scraping & sanding. Don't be this guy!!
    I remember you doing that. I tried that meathod and it didnt work.
    Then I used a torch to heat the inside of the transom plate nice and evenly, got it hot enough to allow a screw driver to be inserted and slowly was able to pry it off. The GP doesn't have as much mating surface in tunnel area like the FZ, so it would be even easier to pull if needed. 5200 only for me.
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  2. #22
    Gus13letter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    There is nearly 1/4" gap between the Worx intake grate and the transom plate on my hull. I may have to craft a rubber 'spacer' to fill up that gap, otherwise it is going to be (even more of) a messy job with so much goopy sealant in play while trying to slide the intake grate into position.

    Question: Should there be sealant on the outsides of the intake grate where it curves up alongside the tunnel sides?

    And in the outer hollows between the bolt holes on each side?
    Some folks I know have sealed the grate in the tunnel area. I have not sealed my grate because I am still undecided what to do for a permanent grate yet.

  3. #23
    Gus13letter's Avatar
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    About the water in the hull. Jim , Jim's Performance started a thread informing everyone to check where the intake grate mounts. He found some skis had a crack around the mounting bolts. Mine was cracked and I had it fixed and reinforced. Since you have everything apart look closely at yours. Mine happened when it was bone stock.
    Last edited by Gus13letter; 08-31-2017 at 04:22 PM.

  4. #24
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gus13letter View Post
    About the water in the hull. Jim , Jim's Performance started a thread informing everyone to check where the intake grate mounts. He found some skis had a crack around the mounting bolts. Mine was cracked and I had it fixed and reinforced.

    Since you have everything apart look closely at yours. Mine happened when it was bone stock.
    Thanks for the heads up. I reinforced my hull early on when this issue was first being reported.

    No cracks in that area (nor am I expecting any with the reinforcement). My intake grate is off the hull right now.

  5. #25
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Arrow SVHO transom plate, epoxy fill the casting voids to improve sealing of the jet pump

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...

    Voids in the casting will be filled before reassembly ...
    West Systems epoxy has been poured into all four casting voids on the back side of the GP1800 SVHO jet pump transom plate.



    I added some glass microfibres to stiffen the mixture and perhaps add some strength. Probably not needed, but it is in there. Mixture was a pourable semi-liquid to minimize trapped air pockets.



    Two curved voids and two round hollows.



    Poured just enough mixed epoxy into each void to bring it close to level with the metal surface, but made sure the epoxy level did not come up above the surface. When reinstalled it is important that the transom plate be able to sit fully flush against the hull.




    Wipe away all drippings and epoxy smears. When it hardens you want a totally flat metal surface.
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    Last edited by K447; 08-31-2017 at 08:37 PM.

  6. #26
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I am wondering if my small water leak is perhaps from around the steering cable, the RiDE motor, or perhaps the driveshaft tube and forward seals?
    That little bit of water is driving you crazy, huh? On my old SHO, every inch of water line was upgraded, every oem clamp on the cooling system & exhaust was replaced, every bypass thru-hull & hull insert replaced or reasealed. Pretty much anything that could have leaked was inspected and/or upgraded & I never got the hull to stay completely dy. It drove me crazy too but eventually I just learned to live with it.

    The driveshaft boot is a common place for leaks, but since your ski is pretty new I doubt that's the culprit. While you have the pump out, now is a good time to go ahead & replace the flimsy stock boot though. Not sure about the GP, but both my GPR & old SHO had a spring like thing inside the boot to prevent it from collapsing. My '16 FX has a shorter boot & Yamaha didn't bother with the wire reinforcement. It's under vacuum at lower speeds & under pressure at higher speeds, so even if your ski has the wire piece inside it'll eventually stretch out & start to wear against the driveshaft. You'll want to replace it with a section of heavy duty hose like Gates, & also replace the stock clamps with t-bolts.



    If you want to take bullet-proofing a step further, the midshaft housing is another potential point of failure. It's mounted to brass inserts in the front of the midwall & those inserts have been known to pull out. If that happens, it's not a small leak, it's a gusher. It's easily done without removing the motor. Use a right angle grinder to sand down the bumps on the back of the midwall untill the back of the insert is thin enough to push a longer bolt through, then reinforce it with a backing nut & fender washer. Just make sure to do one bolt at a time so the housing doesn't shift & throw the coupler alignment off. This is not a must-do for near stock skis. The failures I've seen happened on skis pushing high 80's to 90's.




    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Question: Should there be sealant on the outsides of the intake grate where it curves up alongside the tunnel sides?
    Yes.
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    Last edited by mjh3ides; 08-31-2017 at 10:10 PM.

  7. #27
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gus13letter View Post
    5200 only for me.
    Yeah, that's because you never own a ski long enough to need to take it apart again.

  8. #28
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gus13letter View Post
    Some folks I know have sealed the grate in the tunnel area. I have not sealed my grate because I am still undecided what to do for a permanent grate yet.
    Gus did you reinforce the tunnel on your GP? I always thought that not sealing the intake grate would let water escape at high pressure and reduce the likelyhood of a tunnel crack. I’ve seen people seal the sides of their grate and the silicone blows out pretty quickly. Of course there really isn’t a risk if the tunnel is reinforced.

  9. #29
    Gus13letter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    Gus did you reinforce the tunnel on your GP? I always thought that not sealing the intake grate would let water escape at high pressure and reduce the likelyhood of a tunnel crack. Iíve seen people seal the sides of their grate and the silicone blows out pretty quickly. Of course there really isnít a risk if the tunnel is reinforced.
    I did not reinforce the tunnel.
    In my FZ skis I did reinforce the tunnel. I still did not seal the grate in. Something like Right Stuff gasket maker works awesome if you decide to seal it. I know few folks that have sealed the GP grates in. I'm still figuring the GP out and what works and what doesn't. The gap between the gate and the tunnel is quite a bit, so would imagine sealing it up would help get the water into the tunnel. At a minimum, sealing the grate area to the pump shoe would be ideal.

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  11. #30
    mjh3ides's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    Gus did you reinforce the tunnel on your GP? I always thought that not sealing the intake grate would let water escape at high pressure and reduce the likelyhood of a tunnel crack. I’ve seen people seal the sides of their grate and the silicone blows out pretty quickly. Of course there really isn’t a risk if the tunnel is reinforced.
    I don't think it would make much difference in tunnel pressure, Mike. The biggest benefit of sealing it is to prevent the pump from sucking air on the holeshot & causing cavitation...pretty much a must-do if you aren't frequently changing grates. Reason #2756 the GPR is such a great ski: pump shoe & grate = 2 separate parts. No need to rip the shoe out of the boat in order to change the grate.

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