Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 50
  1. #11
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,850
    +1
    1,933
    Quote Originally Posted by BLASTER 1 View Post
    Also if you plan on running a dedicated line to the cooler it's easier to do it now and if you are using a candoo you can remove the whole hamster wheel assembly and block off the hole in the hull with 2 pieces of round aluminum plate. I did and it come out awesome.
    I do have the CANDooPro GPS speedometer module, and the factory paddle wheel sensor has been removed and a filler plate installed.

    The speedo cable grommet through hull fitting is being used for the sonar sensor for my Garmin chart plotter.


  2. #12
    I'm happy to see this thread. I've been wanting to pull my transom plate as well.

  3. #13
    BLASTER 1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    GRIDLEY, CA
    Posts
    651
    +1
    131
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    After my photos were taken the ride plate and intake grate were removed. At the moment the only thing still attached to the hull is the transom plate.

    The Worx intake grate cavity filler pieces are set into place with 4200 Fast Cure, should be quite solid by morning.

    Before the transom plate can be removed, the steering cable mount has to come off?
    No, you can leave cable alone

  4. #14
    Kaybat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Fl
    Posts
    1,753
    +1
    30
    I use the pump seal kit for my OEM grate, then cut the blocks off the rubber seal( I think that's what r&d says to do with their kits)

  5. #15
    Gus13letter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    8,391
    +1
    924
    Sorry I am late to the party, but I found that when I installed a WORX grate on a friend's ski, I also saw daylight between the intake grate and transom plate. The WORX fitment sucks and cavitated so bad. I filled the intake grate in with fiberglass resin, and did so to allow the use of the stock rubber piece that goes inside the grate and between the plate and sealed it when installing it. I also have done this with the stock intake grate and has worked well.

    The Riva grate fits so much between and their pump seal kit is also very nice. Unfortunately the Riva grate does cavitate 1 - 2 blips more than stock on holeshot but works awesome in choppy water.

    When installing transom plates I always use 5200 and make sure it is aligned to the alignment tabs. You can pull the transom if needed if you use 5200. You just have to heat the transom plate up to loosen the 5200 adhesive. Also make sure you re-torque the nuts holding the transom plate in, every 15 minutes. I do this 4 times.

    Once the hoses are off and the 4 nuts are removed from the transom plate, it will almost fall out. The factory sealant sucks. The steering cable does not have to come out to pull the transom plate.

  6. +1 by:


  7. #16
    mjh3ides's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Jupiter, Florida
    Posts
    7,656
    +1
    3,785
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post

    What do I need to know before I try extracting the transom plate from the hull?



    Best method for pulling the transom plate away from the sealant?

    Any potential issues (or tips) regarding engine to jet pump alignment during transom plate reinstallation and jet pump reassembly?

    The service manual instructions seem straightforward.
    It's easy to get off. The OEM sealant is pretty soft & pliable...similar to 1211 or ultra black. After removing the nuts, give the bolts going through the hull a light wack with a dead blow & it'll pop right off. I prefer permatex right stuff for sealing stuff like intake grates & transom plates. It's sets up stiffer than 4200, so it stands up to high pressure better & isn't a nightmare to remove like 5200. It should all bolt up pretty easy. I've done a few & never had any alignment issues.

    Tip: while it's off, fill these voids(marked by arrows) with epoxy. It'll give you a larger mating surface when remounting it to the hull & will help prevent the sealant from blowing out again in the future.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5875.jpg 
Views:	1050 
Size:	112.1 KB 
ID:	420498  


  8. #17
    mjh3ides's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Jupiter, Florida
    Posts
    7,656
    +1
    3,785
    BTW, this is what happens if you use 5200 on a transom plate & need to remove it again later. Heat, crank, pound....rinse & repeat. Then after it's off, you can look forward to another couple hours of applying marine Debond, scraping & sanding. Don't be this guy!!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_8800.jpg 
Views:	1071 
Size:	127.6 KB 
ID:	420503   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_8801.jpg 
Views:	1075 
Size:	152.3 KB 
ID:	420504  

  9. #18
    Gus13letter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    8,391
    +1
    924
    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    It's easy to get off. The OEM sealant is pretty soft & pliable...similar to 1211 or ultra black. After removing the nuts, give the bolts going through the hull a light wack with a dead blow & it'll pop right off. I prefer permatex right stuff for sealing stuff like intake grates & transom plates. It's sets up stiffer than 4200, so it stands up to high pressure better & isn't a nightmare to remove like 5200. It should all bolt up pretty easy. I've done a few & never had any alignment issues.

    Tip: while it's off, fill these voids(marked by arrows) with epoxy. It'll give you a larger mating surface when remounting it to the hull & will help prevent the sealant from blowing out again in the future.

    Good tip about filling the voids. I forgot to mention that. I use fiberglass resin for that too.

  10. #19
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,850
    +1
    1,933
    Quote Originally Posted by mjh3ides View Post
    It's easy to get off. The OEM sealant is pretty soft & pliable...similar to 1211 or ultra black. After removing the nuts, give the bolts going through the hull a light wack with a dead blow & it'll pop right off. I prefer permatex right stuff for sealing stuff like intake grates & transom plates. It's sets up stiffer than 4200, so it stands up to high pressure better & isn't a nightmare to remove like 5200. It should all bolt up pretty easy. I've done a few & never had any alignment issues.

    Tip: while it's off, fill these voids(marked by arrows) with epoxy. It'll give you a larger mating surface when remounting it to the hull & will help prevent the sealant from blowing out again in the future.

    Excellent advice.

    Transom plate came off without too much trouble, as advised.



    I am not seeing any obvious gaps in the sealant where water could enter the hull

    Old sealant is mostly scrapped off now.

    Voids in the casting will be filled before reassembly with new sealant. There was water trapped in the voids when the plate was pulled off.



    I am wondering if my small water leak is perhaps from around the steering cable, the RiDE motor, or perhaps the driveshaft tube and forward seals?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_9729.jpg 
Views:	3522 
Size:	71.4 KB 
ID:	420516   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_9725.jpg 
Views:	989 
Size:	102.7 KB 
ID:	420517  

  11. #20
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,850
    +1
    1,933
    Quote Originally Posted by Gus13letter View Post
    ... when I installed a WORX grate on a friend's ski, I also saw daylight between the intake grate and transom plate. The WORX fitment sucks and cavitated so bad. I filled the intake grate in with fiberglass resin, and did so to allow the use of the stock rubber piece that goes inside the grate and between the plate and sealed it when installing it. I also have done this with the stock intake grate and has worked well.

    ....
    There is nearly 1/4" gap between the Worx intake grate and the transom plate on my hull. I may have to craft a rubber 'spacer' to fill up that gap, otherwise it is going to be (even more of) a messy job with so much goopy sealant in play while trying to slide the intake grate into position.

    Question: Should there be sealant on the outsides of the intake grate where it curves up alongside the tunnel sides?

    And in the outer hollows between the bolt holes on each side?

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Differences in pump design 66V, 60T and 60E (specifically transom plates)
    By mdavidthomas in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-20-2014, 08:19 PM
  2. Transom Plate Removal
    By rangermtb5 in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-23-2009, 11:36 PM
  3. pv motor and transom plate
    By jprochnow in forum Yamaha Classifieds
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-10-2009, 07:32 AM
  4. trouble removing transom plate
    By jprochnow in forum Yamaha Open Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 08-14-2008, 11:19 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •