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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Arrow Supercharger volute pinning, 2013 through 2017 Yamaha SVHO engine

    Update note: For 2018 Yamaha revised the SVHO supercharger, and my understanding is that the volute no longer requires pinning.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post2919357

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post2890837

    Volute pinning does apply to SVHO superchargers made in 2013 through 2017.

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...

    What seems like straightforward/obvious work methods for someone with a machinist type background may not be obvious to someone else who only does bolt-on modifications.

    There is no how-to video or step by step photos posted, correct? Just before and after photos.
    Here are my notes on pinning the volute in the Yamaha GP1800 SVHO supercharger.

    The reasoning behind this work is to avoid the potential of the volute moving within the supercharger housing and damaging the blades of the supercharger wheel. The risk of volute related failure rises with increased RPM (over stock) and increased boost levels (over stock).

    It is unclear (to me) whether accumulating engine hours also increases the risk, but it seems reasonable that it might.

    Installing a 'set screw' through the wall of the volute pins it in place so the volute cannot shift. I am not running high RPM or high boost, but I feel better knowing the pinned volute is never going to cause a problem.

    Original thread is Attention: Owners of 2013 and newer Yamaha SHO/SVHO skis please read!!!


    This is what the supercharger on the Yamaha (GP1800) SVHO engine looks like from the factory.





    Reminder why this modification is worth doing. The front portion of the supercharger is manufactured using two pieces, which are then precision pressed together. The smooth vortex shaped volute inside is positioned very close to the spinning supercharger wheel. The front outer housing is bolted to the rest of the supercharger.

    On superchargers manufactured after 2012, the only thing holding the inner volute in position is friction with the outer housing, where the inner sleeve passes through the front of the housing. For 2012 and prior years Yamaha manufactured these superchargers with a small screw in a hole bored through both layers of metal. This prevents the inner sleeve from shifting position relative to the outer housing.


    You will be removing both of the large curved hoses connecting the supercharger to the air intake box (mounted on the left side of hull) and the intercooler (mounted to the right of supercharger).



    Tip: If you are also installing an aftermarket air intake, now would be the time to disassemble and remove the stock airbox. It must be disassembled to get it out of the hull. With the stock airbox removed there is a lot more elbow room around the front of the engine. I even removed the airbox mounting bracket. I did reinstall the factory nuts onto the sidewall studs, just in case I ever want to mount something there in the future.



    Remove both curved hoses.

    Tip: Take photos and make notes of what came from where, and what order the parts were removed. Note how far the rubber hoses were onto the fittings, and how the hose clamps were oriented.





    This is the first metal part to be removed. It holds the intercooler to the engine, but this bracket is in the way for access to the supercharger bolts.



    Use an open ended wrench where clearances are tight. There is just enough room to get the bolt loose and wiggle the bracket away from the engine.

    Remove two bolts to the intercooler, two bolts to the engine.
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    Last edited by K447; 04-07-2018 at 09:58 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Keep this area clean. Do not put fingers or tools or allow dirt to get into the supercharger air inlet.



    Start removing the bolts that hold the supercharger down onto the engine. Note that there are different sizes of bolt. Be sure to put the correct bolts back into the correct holes during reassembly!

    Note: There is one very small bolt that should NOT be removed. Leave it installed.



    Put the bolts somewhere clean. Remove any excess thread locking compound from the threads.

    Once all the bolts are removed, the supercharger can be lifted straight up off the engine and removed from the hull.



    Tip: There is a rubber gasket in a groove on the bottom of the supercharger. Don't let it fall off while you are removing the supercharger. And don't let it get dirty. Have a clean rag to lay it on as soon as you get the supercharger out.

    Note: Do not allow any grit to fall into the engine while the supercharger is removed. Lay a clean shop rag over the opening while you work on the supercharger.



    Nest step is to remove the bolts holding the front of the supercharger in place. Clean old thread compound from the bolts, set them aside.

    Carefully separate the volute front section from the supercharger. Be careful to not mar the mating surfaces. There is factory sealant that will resist you removing the front. Work carefully and it will come apart. I inserted a small rod into one of the bolt holes and gently tapped it to crack the sealant. Don't over do this and crack the cast metal of the supercharger!

    Also be careful to not drop the supercharger when it comes apart.

    Remove the old sealant from the mating faces all the way around the rim. You will apply new sealant later during reassembly.

    While it was apart, I used a thread tap to clear old sealant out of the bolt holes. Be careful that all the removed compound and small metal chips is cleaned away from the supercharger. These are blind holes. Do not the thread the tap in so deeply that it bottoms out in the holes.

    I used a can of compressed air to blow debris out of the blind holes. Wear eye protection

    Tip: Keep your fingers out of the gear area. It will be oily. Keep the work area clean. No grit anywhere inside the supercharger.
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    Last edited by K447; 08-22-2017 at 12:54 PM.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Somehow I managed to forget to take photos of locating, drilling and thread tapping the hole in the supercharger volute.



    The location of the hole is important. If it is drilled too close to the supercharger body then you may not have room to turn the thread tap. Try to position the hole as shown, give or take.



    2012 and older Yamaha superchargers came from the factory with a small metric screw installed in this location. I replicated that using a flat head metric screw of small size, recessed flush with the housing.

    Drill the hole using the correct drill bit size to match the thread tap and screw size you will be using. Tap the hole, then taper the hole to fit the screw.

    When tapping aluminum, back the tap out a half turn after each forward turn. This reduces the chance of jamming the tap in the hole and breaking it. Every few turns, back the tap out completely to clear the chips.

    A little bit of oil/lubricant also helps the tap cut the threads. Clean the lube away before installing the screw so the thread locking compound can fully grip the metal.

    Clean away all metal chips. Make sure the inside hole is also clean, no hanging bits of metal after taping.

    After test fitting the screw, remove and add a small amount of blue Loctite to the threads. Reassemble and make the screw quite snug. Do not over torque.

    On the inside you want the screw to be close to flush. If the screw sticks into the air stream by a couple of threads or is a thread or two short of full penetration, that should be ok. Try to get it reasonably close to perfect.

    With the volute now pinned, again check for metal debris. Everything needs to be super clean. No leftover sealant, no grit, no gouges on the mating surfaces.

    Apply a thin bead of sealant all the way around the perimeter of the supercharger. I used engine crankcase joint sealant, suitable for metal to metal sealing. Be careful to not blob it on too thickly or have gaps. These are precision parts and you do not want excess sealant to get squeezed into the interior of the supercharger.



    Reassemble supercharger and torque bolts to spec. I used a criss-cross pattern.

    Make sure front housing is oriented correctly onto the supercharger body.
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    Last edited by K447; 08-22-2017 at 12:58 PM.

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  5. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Clean the oil off the gasket and press it carefully into the grooves on the bottom of the supercharger housing. The gasket has tiny tabs that help hold it in place in the groove. Make sure it is fully seated in the groove.



    Reinstall the supercharger onto the engine. Carefully align the index holes with the locating pins. If you even suspect the gasket underneath may have shifted out of position, remove supercharger and check. That gasket must be correctly installed. If it is pinched or damaged at all, install a new gasket.

    Bolts should be clean of old sealant. I applied blue Loctite during reassembly.

    Note: If you use a thread tap to clean the bolt holes out before reassembly, make damn sure absolutely nothing falls into the engine. No old sealant, no metal chips, no grit or dirt, nothing at all.

    Hold the supercharger in place while you drop in the first couple of bolts. Pay attention to which bolts go in which holes.

    I hand threaded those two bolts in a few turns, then put blue Loctite on the other bolts, inserted each and made them lightly snug. Remove the first two bolts, add Loctite and thread them all down to snug.

    Recheck that the supercharger is fully seated, then torque the bolts to specification in stages. Different bolts have different torque.







    Reinstall bracket for the intercooler.



    10mm and 12mm sockets for the supercharger bolts.
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    Last edited by K447; 08-22-2017 at 12:11 PM.

  6. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Reinstall the large curved hoses. I applied a thin film of water to the inside of the hose ends to make installation easier. Do not use oil or any other lubricant on the supercharger hoses.

    Make sure the hose ends are fully seated onto the supercharger and intercooler. Also make sure you have the hose installed right way around.

    Make sure the gear clamps are oriented so that you can get a tool on them for tightening.

    If you are keeping the stock airbox, reinstall the curved hose to supercharger. Fully seated hose ends and correct orientation for the gear clamps.

    Reconnect the crankcase vent tube to the air intake.



    When you are finished the front of the engine should look exactly the same as before you started. Except for the addition of a single carefully installed screw in the supercharger.

    That 'volute pinning' screw will ensure the inner volute part of the front housing cannot walk towards the supercharger wheel despite engine vibration, heat, high RPM and running hours.


  7. #6
    Geez fucking yamaha. Should hv done this. This is pretty much a recall issue. Thanks for this post

    Sent from my SM-G930T using GreenHulk PWC Performance mobile app powered by Tapatalk

  8. #7
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    Thanks for the post. Very good and detailed info. I'll be doing this in the offseason

  9. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngDUMP View Post
    Thanks for the post. Very good and detailed info. I'll be doing this in the offseason
    For others that have now completed this modification, do you have any additional comments or useful info, tips?

    I removed my supercharger before doing the drilling and tapping. For those that have done the volute pinning modification with the supercharger still installed on the engine, any tips or advice?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    For others that have now completed this modification, do you have any additional comments or useful info, tips?

    I removed my supercharger before doing the drilling and tapping. For those that have done the volute pinning modification with the supercharger still installed on the engine, any tips or advice?
    I performed mine on the ski and I did not drill all the way through the volute. Had my shop vac right next to the drill bit to evacuate metal shavings and I left the intake hose on aswell to make sure nothing entered the supercharger.

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  12. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miglater View Post
    I performed mine on the ski and I did not drill all the way through the volute.

    Had my shop vac right next to the drill bit to evacuate metal shavings and I left the intake hose on as well to make sure nothing entered the supercharger.
    Did you use a blind end tap to thread the hole?

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