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  1. #1

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    GP1200R Carbs / Bogging in mid-range.

    Hello! So now that my 2000 GP1200R actually runs after replacing the starter and bendix I've gotten to ride it twice and I noticed that I need to run with about 1/5 choke for the ski to not stall if I try to go over somewhere around 20-30mph. If I apply about the 1/5 choke, all seems OK. It does want to take off at around 30mph. Its the wahhhhhhWAHHHHHHHH type of thing where when I accelerate over 30 while still applying smooth increase in throttle, I hit a point where it just opens up and I'm basically going to 40-50mph with seemingly little throttle increase. If I do not have the choke on, this is where it seems to die.

    While I know I prob need a carb rebuild, but not trying to get into that now, would it be "safe" to assume that I should enrich the mixture a little bit on the low speed screw since I'm basically running it fulltime with 1/5 choke?

    Engine starts right up after it boggs down (if I let it die). No problem idling at 5mph. powervalve servos seems to be running OK. I'll see what I can do about getting a video or something.


    I've been reading a lot of the carb threads here and most seem to be around serious modding / rebuilds or serious dying problems. My engine seems to run "Ok" with the 1/5 choke applied and I'd like to maybe get some easy ideas first before I try and carb rebuild. I realistically will not be able to do that this season as i only really have 2-3 weeks left of my riding time.

    Thanks!

    Editing for time catchup:
    - I have decided to do a carb rebuild and will prob end up using O'side Bills recipe. Carb kit is on it way.

    - I thought I would make a graph to help people visualize the throttle curve that I'm experiencing. Post#25

    When it does not bogg down.


    When it does bogg down. I have to feather the throttle to prevent stalling. Or if i run with a tad choke, it does not have this problem and its as it is above.



    - The ski ran for the rest of the season, but still needed a little love in that mid range. It seems to get better with time over the course of the rest of the season. It also seems to get better after the ski runs for about 10 min.
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    Last edited by MrMitch; 11-20-2017 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Time updates


  2. #2
    hammer5312's Avatar
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    I have been noticing something similar on the SUV. Kind of like all or nothing. There really isn't like a midrange where you can gradually open the throttle.
    It seems to kind of stutter coming off trolling speed then about 20.....WAHHHHHHHHH
    I'm pretty sure my carbs need to be rebuilt, maybe that's the problem with mine.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by hammer5312 View Post
    I have been noticing something similar on the SUV. Kind of like all or nothing. There really isn't like a midrange where you can gradually open the throttle.
    It seems to kind of stutter coming off trolling speed then about 20.....WAHHHHHHHHH
    I'm pretty sure my carbs need to be rebuilt, maybe that's the problem with mine.
    Yeah, I get decent throttle response then there is a point where the throttle "jumps" and then the throttle is like 5x more sensitive. It ran OK (with the choke and still doing the throttle jump) for like 1.5 hours, even when going through 5mph zones for about 10 min of completely throttle off, then back to normal riding.

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  5. #4
    If you require choke then your low speed circuit in your carb needs attention. This also means you are running lean. Do not use the ski!!!!!!!!. Have the carbs stripped, cleaned and rebuilt buy someone who knows what they are doing. Do not try to richen up the mixture to hide the problem otherwise you will run in to all sorts of issues. If the low speed fuel circuit is blocked, messing with the settings wont make any difference.
    Things to check, the accelerator pump is working and squirting out in the carb inlet
    The fuel pump daiphrams in the carb have no kinks
    The low speed and high speed circuits are free from debris and set correctly. Also make sure it has the proper jets in as per OEM (if it has the original air box)

    It is your ski but the most important thing on these skis to avoid seized pistons are the carbs. If it was mine, I would not be riding it. Hope this helps

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  7. #5
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Agree w Phil... Carb rebuild is in order. If it requires the choke to not stall, it is lean.
    You can't adjust that out w low speed screws, if it starts and idles ok and initial throttle response is ok - your low speed screws are where they should be.

    You would have to remove the stinger to adjust them anyway, if you dont have T-handle adjusters you have to pull them off to adjust the low. At that point you've done all the hard work anyway, rebuild them - its not hard and there is plenty of help here if you have any questions.

    Check if you have a D plate, if not, that's the perfect time to put one in since you've got it apart.

    I would go through the entire fuel circuit from the tank back while doing the carbs.
    Remove the flap in the fuel sender, check and possibly replace the fuel vent check valve. Replace the fuel filter.
    Clean and possibly bypass the fuel selector valve.

    I would also replace the jets w new ones (jets are cheap), even if staying w stock jetting. Jets will look clean when they are not.

    Riding your ski as it is: taking a potentially very expensive gamble.

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  9. #6

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    Thanks Guys,

    I'll see if I can get a better description of whats happening. Like actually take note of what happens where so you guys have a good description. If there is something I can do in the short term that is really easy, to hold me over to when I can do a rebuild, hopefully there is something that I can do.

    I know it might not be optimal, but its really all that I have to work with. I bought the ski specifically for me being able to use it while I was able to take a stint and work remotely for a few weeks and its something that I always wanted to do. So to me, the value is really in using it for the next 2-3 weeks. I've already lost 1/2 my time doing the starter/bendix and not saying that I want to be like "F-it!", run it till the pistons fly out! But if there is something that would help temp. alleviate the problem / make it so it can hold me over. Then after a few weeks, Expect a new thread about a carb rebuild!

    I'll also contact who I bought it from and see if there are any mods already done. I think the cat is removed and it looks like the wire going to the cat is removed and there is a cap where it would plug into the ECU that looks like its just jumping the wires.

    edit: I don't mean this in any way to dismiss what you guys have said, I'm learning a lot by reading here and I agree a rebuild is in order, I'm just up against the clock on the whole reason why I bought this thing So I'm seeing if there are any temporary things I can do.
    Last edited by MrMitch; 08-22-2017 at 10:02 AM.

  10. #7

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    I should also add that it seems that its doing this after I worked on it for the bendix / starter. So maybe I should check some of the basic stuff first like fuel lines, etc etc

  11. #8
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    Lets put it another way, and don't take it the wrong way....165 for a carb rebuild now, or 1000 in a week or two for an engine rebuild. IT IS THIS SERIOUS!!!!!! Do not ride it until you have it fixed.

  12. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    Lets put it another way, and don't take it the wrong way....165 for a carb rebuild now, or 1000 in a week or two for an engine rebuild. IT IS THIS SERIOUS!!!!!! Do not ride it until you have it fixed.

    I get ya. Its going to sound a little weird, but because the whole reason I own this thing is basically for the next 2-3 weeks, its almost useless to me after that time and I don't even have a place to store it near me after that (live in an apt). If I can find a place that will do a rebuild where I am in a few days i'd def consider / do it. But in the meantime I'd like to see if there is anything basic that I can check / or test to do, or any other information I can get to you guys that might tell you its a kinked hose or bad gas or whatever before I write the whole thing off.

  13. #10
    As much as you would like to hear it, there is no temp fix. If ski is bogging and needs choke to run, your carbs are lean and need sorting. Simple as that I am afraid pal.

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