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  1. #1
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    MaptunerX power cord changed to polarized plug

    This is a minor upgrade to the MaptunerX device.

    The MaptunerX programming hardware comes with a pair of clips to connect to the battery posts. This provides power to the programmer and to the ECU during reflash.

    I find the battery clips to be a hassle. Not only is there a risk of connecting them backwards (reverse polarity), sometimes the clips can pop off unexpectedly. I do not know what would happen if the 12 volt battery power was cut part way through a reflash of the ECU, but it can't be good.

    The stock battery clips also added to the bulk of the MaptunerX package. It is more compact to pack and carry with the polarized inline connector.

    On my watercraft I always install a pigtail lead to the battery, with the polarized plug zip tied up high, just under the seat. This makes it easy to connect my battery charger.



    I modifed the power cord for my MaptunerX to make use of the installed pigtail.
    The battery clips were cut from the cable, after marking which cord was red/positive.

    I purchased a spare polarized battery connector. This one happened to be colour coded with red for positive, but you can use one that is all the same colour.

    The key is to find the wire that connects to the exposed pin on the polarized connector, and follow that wire back. This is the wire that you will splice to the 'positive' wire for the MaptunerX.

    I do not know if the MaptunerX device has internal protection for reverse polarity, so I added an inline diode between the MaptunerX positive lead and the positive wire from the polarized connector. The diode will prevent damage if somehow the battery voltage polarity was to be reversed.

    Solder or crimp connect the MaptunerX positive lead to the 'banded' end of the diode. Connect the other end of the diode to the polarized connector wire, for the exposed pin.

    I used heat shrink tubing over the soldered wire splices. Use red for the positive wire, black for the negative wire, if you have colored heat shrink.

    Do not leave any exposed metal at the wire joins when done. If using crimp butt connections, I recommend the type with heat shrink and heat activated sealant inside. An electric heat gun will shrink and seal the crimped wire joint inside, making it waterproof.


    Connect the negative MaptunerX wire to the polarized connector (shrouded pin).

    The result will look something like this.

    Now I can power my MaptunerX using the same polarized pigtail that I use to charge the battery. No possbility of connecting the clips backwards and much reduced chance of interrupting the 12 volt power during an ECU reflash.

    I can still use the MaptunerX with battery clips on other watercraft, should the need arise. Use a standard battery charging cable with clips and polarized connector, join the polarized connectors to power the MaptunerX box.

    Note: Before connecting the MaptunerX device using the polarized connector method, double check the polarity on the connector pins and wires, make sure nothing is connected incorrectly.

    Follow the normal instructions to connect the MaptunerX to the watercraft ECU.
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    Last edited by K447; 09-08-2017 at 11:00 PM.

  2. #2
    Nice job

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Comments, corrections or improvements?

    Please post up.

  4. #4
    BLASTER 1's Avatar
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    We did this same exact mod to our maptuner (me and my son share the maptuner)last year. We both have battery tenders on all our skis and the kid come up with this idea. Works great, and like you said we were afraid of a clip popping off when tuning. It's quick and easy to connect and you don't have to reach way down to get to the battery

  5. #5
    Work Harder, Millions on Wellfare Depend On Us! ultramaxracing05's Avatar
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    Tip. Keep the terminal wires from the battery high and dry, any contact with water will corrode the positive lead. Happened to me before. I have them zip tied up above on the mid wall.

    Sent from my SM-G930V using GreenHulk PWC Performance mobile app powered by Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Super Jim's Avatar
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    Excellent modification. Another tip on the polarized plug. Even if they are high and dry, it's still a high moisture environment.

    Use some dielectric grease on the terminals to prevent corrosion.

    I think I will do the same to mine.
    Last edited by K447; 11-24-2018 at 06:17 PM.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Super Jim View Post
    Excellent modification. Another tip on the polarized plug. Even if they are high and dry, it's still a high moister environment. Use some dielectric grease on the terminals to prevent corrosion. I think I will do the same to mine.
    Agree with applying a thin coating of dielectric grease to the 12 volt plug contacts.

    Also coat the battery terminals and battery cable cable ends with dielectric grease.

    The polarized plugs I use come with a little rubber cap (visible in the photos), but the grease is still a good idea. Don't need a lot a grease, just a thin film.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...

    On my watercraft I always install a pigtail lead to the battery, with the polarized plug zip tied up high, just under the seat. This makes it easy to connect my battery charger.

    ...
    Update: The original polarized leads I was using are only about two feet long. This is 'just enough' to position the SAE plug near the top of the mid-wall. It 'works' just fine but I found it moderately awkward to connect the charger to the stubby end.

    I recently purchased some longer 4FT 12V Ring Terminal SAE to O Ring Connecters Extension Cord Cable Connector for Battery Charger/Maintainer

    These are four feet long, which is plenty of length to run up from the battery and route the cable end to somewhere easier to access, and actually allow the SAE polarized plug end to reach above the seat opening.

    Limit the charge current to under 10 amps. My charger is maxiumum 8 amps and I will probably limit it to 4 amps most of the time. As the charge current tapers off during absorption charge mode the voltage drop through the extension cable will become insignificant. Voltage loss at 8 amps is about 0.4 volts, shrinking to only 0.1 volts at 2 amps.

    I would prefer a 16AWG polarized extension but did not find any in the 3-4 foot length, with an integral fuse.




    Note the cable I received is only 18 AWG (1.01mm2) extension cable, despite the Amazon marketing image claiming 16AWG

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