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  1. #11
    martincom's Avatar
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    I'd check the fuel pressure when it is bogging out. That test isn't going to cost anything but time and will narrow the next step considerably.

    I just had a similar situation with a 2004 Virage I that I had sold to my brother-in-law. A month after he had it he reported it would bog out after 30 - 45 minutes of running. When I tested it, it was more like 15 minutes the first time. I came back and connected the fuel pressure gauge, about 5 minutes in the lift, and it ran fine again for 5 minutes. When it bogged out the fuel pressure dropped to 5 psi. If I shut it off and let it float for a minute, it starts and runs fine for a few more minutes. I'm speculating a load of contaminated gasoline was used to refill it and it is collecting around the canister fuel filter.


  2. #12

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    do you have the stock fuel pump in it? I've heard that some aftermarket pumps can pull too many amps causing the driver in the emm to overheat after about 10-15 minutes

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What do you mean, you can hear the flywheel spinning?

    What exactly are you hearing?

    Could you be hearing the Bendix gear whine or the starter motor ?
    It may be the Bendix on the starter spinning. Once I let go of the button, I hear like a hard stop of the I assume the bendix as well.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    I'd check the fuel pressure when it is bogging out. That test isn't going to cost anything but time and will narrow the next step considerably.

    I just had a similar situation with a 2004 Virage I that I had sold to my brother-in-law. A month after he had it he reported it would bog out after 30 - 45 minutes of running. When I tested it, it was more like 15 minutes the first time. I came back and connected the fuel pressure gauge, about 5 minutes in the lift, and it ran fine again for 5 minutes. When it bogged out the fuel pressure dropped to 5 psi. If I shut it off and let it float for a minute, it starts and runs fine for a few more minutes. I'm speculating a load of contaminated gasoline was used to refill it and it is collecting around the canister fuel filter.
    Yes, this is very similar to what was happening in the water. Ide actually have to bump the start button to get it started. If I held he button down, I would hear the motor building pressure like normal for a few seconds, then just hear the Benedict spinning. By bumping the button ide get it to start.
    Checking the fuel pressure while it’s bogging will have to be step 1. I also drained the gas tank completely, and wiped out the tank. Removed the fuel pump, and soaked it in carb cleaner. The reinstalled everything, and filled it with 91 octane.
    I’ve done some checking on a new TPS, and fuel pump. Looks like there is some rigging that needs to be done to make he replacement parts work, as they are not OEM.

  5. #15
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    What exactly do mean by 'building pressure'? These are not steam engines ...

    Starting process consists of;

    Press and hold the Start button

    Start solenoid clicks to energize starter motor

    Starter motor instantly engages and turns the Bendix, which in turn instantly engages with the flywheel. Flywheel begins to crank engine. All of this happens in less than one second.

    Engine cranks rapidly and consistently, a fairly constant cranking RPM until it fires.

    Ignition system wakes up and begins to fire the engine, spark plugs and fuel. Dash display is also triggered awake, runs through a quick boot cycle and then shows normal display. Once awake the display should stay awake for five minutes even if the engine is stopped. Restarting the engine should NOT reboot the display.

    Within a few seconds the engine should start and idle.

    A cold engine might take 7-10 seconds to fire up and idle, a warm engine should take less than three seconds.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdeezs View Post
    do you have the stock fuel pump in it? I've heard that some aftermarket pumps can pull too many amps causing the driver in the emm to overheat after about 10-15 minutes
    I am not sure if it’s OEM Stock, this ski has what looks to be an original 2002 computer.
    Here is what is in there.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    The pump itself could have been replaced inside the fuel tank. The only way to get a better idea is to measure current draw by grounding the brown wire (pin 40 on the EMM) through a multimeter set to measure current on the 10A scale.

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrenchin510 View Post
    Lost a lot of power on the last time out. Bogged down, and wouldn't go above 3000RPM
    Attachment 418615
    Attachment 418616
    I noticed this picture before I disassembled and rebuilt the fuel lines. Does it really matter which line is connected to supply, or return? I have the “TOP” line connected to the Supply side of the fuel pump. Is this correct?

  9. #19
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Ficht fuel injectors - lower fitting is pressurized fuel feed into the injector, upper fitting on each injector is fuel return.

    The fittings are slightly different sizes, smaller on the return lines.

    Air trapped inside the injectors (if any) is more easily purged via the upper fitting as fuel exit.

  10. #20

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    I had them hooked up backwards on the water. Hmmmm, could this have cause a “bogging” condition? At least attributed to it...

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