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  1. #1

    2010 Kawasaki ultra 260x rebuild

    Hello guys,
    First time with a four stroke. I purchased a 2010 Kawasaki Ultra 260x (JT1500EAF) for 2k. I asked the guy what was wrong with it... He said it ran slow at the end of the season last year. He thinks there may be water in it. but the oil was good ( not milky).
    He asked if I wanted to give it a run...I promptly declined. I brought back to my house..and asked my local dealer to fix it. They sat on it for three months! so here I am doing it myself. I'm used to two strokes.. this is my first time with a four stoke.
    so here's my catalog as a go along.

    Advice welcome!

    To start with, I had already purchased aesthetic parts, Cowling, Side rails, seats and such.. so I was already another 2k into outside parts (not including motor yet).

    First off , the motor was really hard to turn. So I couldn't wait to pull the motor and see what was wrong with it.
    Turns out the main bearing went bad (bearing and balls were completely gone) when opening the case, then I found the #2 and 3 were journal sleeves seized and lots of shards. and the center crank washers also slipped. oil holes covered over.
    so I've ordered a complete bottom end and of course, a top end piston kit, all oem.. $1000 Crank! Wow!

    I ran into a few little issues along the way. some stripped threads and such.. snapped a cheap tap into one hole. I got it out. but now i'm reluctant to tap it again.. but I have to. not an important hole (end jug). but I should do it right.

    Here's some pics...











  2. #2
    While i'm waiting for parts I'm cleaning what I can and replacing a few of the aesthetics on the hull.
    Out with the old and in with the new...I'mma little worried on how to properly replace the mats.









  3. #3

    Join Date
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    Mats are easy. Well kind of lol. The hardest part is getting the old glue off when you pull the old mats off. I use a decal removal spray first. Let it soak then razor blade the glue off. Staying inside the mat area. You will scratch sometimes. Then use acetone or Mineral spirits to get the rest off. If your buying hydro turf get the ready to go 3m sticky backs. So much easier and faster. Plus you can place the mat down. Hold one side and peal the backing off. Lay it back down then do the other. If that makes any since. Good luck on he project. Looks like a nice ski.

  4. #4

    Join Date
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    Also just currious how many hours where on that ski. Poor thing must have had a hard life. I've picked one up myself. So I've been reading. And there prone to get some fuel in the oil. I'm guessing from small amounts of blow by. My oil was thin and smelled like fuel but running great. Some are saying to change it every 20 hours. Currious if you noticed and fuel or really thin oil. Maybe causing degraded in the oil and all the bearing failure? Or did it have any oil in it haha

  5. #5
    70+ hours on it... he ran it wot from one end of the lake to the other all the time. but he said he changed oil and fogged every year... and he was in Texas. The oil looked great! aside from shards everywhere. most got caught in the oil pump pick-up filter.

    Ive also been reading about mat removal... This seems like a good write up as well as other posts about mat removal.. so Thanks! heat gun, razor, pb blaster, acetone. yeah I got the new 3m sticky backs!

  6. #6
    Fat Man, Little Boat Region8Ultra250X's Avatar
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    I'd upgrade the pump to the 2011+ double bearing setup. willing to bet that is what caused the crank bearing failure

  7. #7
    hmmmm.. interesting! I have no idea what caused it.. but I'm gonna check into that.. Thank you! the pump looks and turns fine.. wouldnt the pump bearings go before the main bearing though?

    I guess there are supposed to be two main bearings and a spacer... neither were there ( completely gone, no trace). seal was in tact though. and the end shaft looked a little worn.

  8. #8
    looks of that end shaft took a beating.
    Also. dumbass me didn't realise that there was an end shaft when trying to pull the rotor off and amongst the pressure was hearing little tin snaps on the flywheel rotor as I was taking it off. It's still magnetized good.. but you can see it buckled along the edge.. these are expensive.. is it still good?




  9. #9
    Welp, finally buttoned her up only to find out that she is max rpm 6000 + and only going forty mph. I'm fearful that I might not have the timing correct.. And not happy about taking her apart again to check the camshafts. rechecked most everything else. but wasn't sure about the timing when I put her together. Should always eliminate doubt.
    Anyway, I wonder if I can reach the timing without taking the motor out of the hull again? The key error was only "FI"...on the DFI and intermittently works.. sometimes nothing at all. Anybody have experience with this?

  10. #10

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    Yea you can absolutely do/fix the timing with the motor in the ski

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