Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Harsax13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Posts
    246
    +1
    4

    Polaris MSX 140 Drive Shaft Water Leak

    I have a 2003 Polaris MSX 140. Its leaking water from the drive shaft seals. I have done some research. I will order the drive shaft removal tool form Watcon tomorrow. I will also get a chain vice grip to hold the coupling when removing the drive shaft. I will see how bad the bearings etc are when i get it all the way apart. Any tips from someone who has done this job before?
    -Is the drive shaft regular thread, NOT reverse thread?
    -Why are people talking about removing the ride plate? The jet pump is off the hull already.
    -Should I replace all bearings etc while its apart?
    Any advice on this job will be welcome. Thanks.

  2. #2
    martincom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    936
    +1
    98
    They usually go out around 100 hours. Driveshaft is right hand thread. I didn't remove the ride plate on mine as it is a pain to break all the sealant loose. The 2004 MSX140 plate is better, so that maybe where that is coming from. Yup, replace the bearings. They're generics, so not expensive at all. I believe the bearing seal/kit Polaris offered is NLA. I purchased the bearings from McMAster Carr as I was ordering some Oteiker clamps from them at the same time. I believe I sourced the seals from AVX Seals. K447 has the seal/bearing dimensions listed on his signature page info link.

    Here is what I ordered from AVX. I believe some of these were for the impeller bearings, also:


    Here is what I ordered from McMaster-Carr:
    Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamps
    for Firm Hose/Tube, Tight-Seal, 9/32" to 11/32" ID
    52545K26

    1
    Pack of 25

    $9.52
    Pack

    $9.52
    2

    Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamps
    for Firm Hose/Tube, Tight-Seal, 5/16" to 3/8" ID
    52545K42


    1
    Pack of 25

    9.52
    Pack

    9.52

    3

    Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamps
    for Firm Hose/Tube, Tight-Seal, 11/32" to 13/32" ID
    52545K27


    1
    Pack of 25

    9.52
    Pack

    9.52

    4

    Vibration-Resistant Pinch Clamps
    for Firm Hose/Tube, Tight-Seal, 3/8" to 7/16" ID
    52545K45


    1
    Pack of 25

    9.52
    Pack

    9.52

    5

    Ball Bearing
    Double Sealed, for 20 mm Shaft Diameter, 52 mm OD
    5972K56


    2
    Each

    14.67
    Each

    29.34

    6

    Ball Bearing
    Double Sealed, for 25 mm Shaft Diameter, 52 mm OD
    5972K46


    2
    Each

    10.09
    Each

    20.18

    Merchandise 87.60
    Shipping 6.98
    Total $94.58

  3. #3
    martincom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Brainerd, MN
    Posts
    936
    +1
    98
    Do not tighten the bearing carrier bolts fully until the pump is re-assembled. It may need to move slightly and tightening it before the pump is assembled may place a side load on the bearings/seals. I believe the shop manual has the procedure fairly well spelled out.

  4. #4
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    2,795
    +1
    213
    It is highly recommended to utilize the pump alignment shaft in conjunction with a bushing to locate the bearing carrier.

    Shaft: http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-MM-Steel-...c/121655978407

    Bushing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Bushin...c/111444950712

  5. #5
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newman Lake, WA
    Posts
    2,510
    +1
    193
    Or before you remove the original carrier... drill 2 small 1/8" holes through the upper metal part of the carrier... through the carrier and through the metal plate behind it that it bolts to. The holes... and the drill bits you stick in them... act as dowels to locate the carrier exactly where the factory aligned it. So after you remove it and rebuild it... when you go to put it back on... the drill bits will perfectly align the carrier back to where it was.

    Be sure to use locktite on the carrier bolts. These bolts are known to back-out. Some even put a nyloc nut on the extra threads from the bolt behind the metal plate to ensure the bolt doesn't back-out. And don't tighten these bolts too much... you don't want to deform the rubber seal between the carrier and plate too badly.

    Cheers!


  6. #6
    Harsax13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Posts
    246
    +1
    4
    I will be sure to do that. Thank you for the tip!

  7. #7
    There's a chance that the inner race of the bearing is seized onto the OD of the shaft. If this is the case (it was on mine,) you'll need to find away to get the balls out of the bearing so the inner race can come with the shaft. Once you have the shaft on the bench you can split the inner race and clean up the shaft. I used a dremel tool with small grinder tip and created a slot, then I used a magnet to get the balls out. It is a very tedious process but it's about the only option.
    Everybody talks about which direction to put the lip seals.....open surface always towards the fluid, that's how lip seals work. In this case, both forward and aft seals should point away from the bearing, you're trying to keep water OUT of the bearing cavity.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,388
    +1
    1,878
    Quote Originally Posted by Walt53B View Post
    ...
    Everybody talks about which direction to put the lip seals.....open surface always towards the fluid, that's how lip seals work. In this case, both forward and aft seals should point away from the bearing, you're trying to keep water OUT of the bearing cavity.
    For the MSX through-hull bearing assembly, this was worked out years ago.


    Simply put, the seals need to not only keep water out of the bearing, but also resist the negative pressure (suction) in the pump tunnel when accelerating hard. If air from the hull interior is allowed to be drawn through the bearing assembly and into the pump tunnel past the seals it can ventilate the impeller, reducing thrust.

    If there is water in the bilge the seal needs to keep it out of the bearing cavity.

    Use the above link and diagram, it works.


Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. WTB - Parts Bought one ISO - MSX 140 drive shaft
    By Jetskijunky in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-09-2016, 10:24 PM
  2. 2003 polaris msx 140 pump shaft alignment
    By polarismsx140HO in forum MSX/Matrix
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-17-2013, 05:28 PM
  3. 03 Polaris MSX 140 HO Drive Shaft removal troubles
    By leedanger in forum MSX/Matrix
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-13-2012, 03:01 PM
  4. polaris msx 140 pipe leak pleas help
    By mitch04 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-10-2012, 10:21 PM
  5. MSX 140 Drive Shaft Removal tool
    By vwmikey99 in forum MSX/Matrix
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-06-2011, 10:11 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •