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  1. #11
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    There are supplements to these manuals and missing features are often documented in the manual for another model of that ski.

    It does make for some real challenges in dealing with electrical problems caused by rat damage.

    In a somewhat related story, back in another life, I worked with a company that did euro car conversions to US specs.

    I got a call to rewire an older Ferrari that had the battery installed backwards.

    What a surprise. ALL the wiring was THE SAME COLOR.

    Needless to say, I took a nice holiday after finishing that mess.

    Handbuilt for sure, I guess all they had that day was red.


  2. #12
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    GP1800 Fuse box

    For completeness;

    All four relays inside the GP1800 fuse box (6EX-82170-01 EBOX) are the same type CM1a-r-12V. These are normally open, single pole, rated for 35 amp max contact current.

    The relays are very tightly held by friction from the four bottom tabs on each relay. The square plastic body shell of the relay is fragile, it is easy to fracture the relay with prying or pliers. They do pull straight up and out, how you do that without damaging anything is the challenge.




    With the front cover removed, all the fuses are visible. The system has seven* mini fuses and one large 50 amp fuse. There is one spare fuse of every amp rating. The spare 50 is across the top. The four other mini fuse spares are grouped together in the lower right area.

    The square white plastic item is a fuse removal tool. Very handy.

    I labeled the relays, makes it easier to understand how it works.




    Four spare mini fuses in the foreground, fully seated. The seven active mini fuses are shown here raised up, just loosely sitting in position. They must be pressed down flush to be ready for use.




    If the twelve perimeter screws are removed (beware of the loose nuts on the backside) it is possible to separate the fuse block body, revealing the lower deck which houses the actual sockets for the relays and fuses.

    The lower section also has a snubber diode visible for each relay coil, and hidden inside the plastic bottom sandwich are the metal circuits which connect the wire harness connectors to the various fuse and relay pins.


    * One of the seven fuses (a 3 amp fuse) connects to a blank pin 8 on the 8-pin wire harness connector. This fuse has 12 volt power when the ‘main’ relay is engaged.

    On other models (FX) this powers the bilge pump, I believe.

    I suspect this fuse/pin could be used as a source of ‘engine on’ voltage to power other items, such as a 12 volt USB charger port. Or power another relay for bigger loads.

    Do not attempt to draw more than a couple of amps through that 3 amp fuse.


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    Last edited by K447; 10-28-2018 at 04:22 PM.

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  4. #13
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Arrow GP1800 Labeled Fuse Box inside cover

    Fuses labeled on photo.

    Note: SCU fuse and Battery fuse labels are incorrectly marked.
    The 30 Amp green fuse is for the SCU (RiDE) and the 50 amp giant red fuse is the main BATTERY fuse.




    Print the photo, laminate and glue into cover of fuse box. Now it is easy to see what fuse is for what.

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    Last edited by K447; 07-07-2019 at 03:48 PM.

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  6. #14
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...

    All four relays inside the GP1800 fuse box (6EX-82170-01 EBOX) are the same type CM1a-r-12V. These are normally open, single pole, rated for 35 amp max contact current.

    The relays are very tightly held by friction from the four bottom tabs on each relay. The square plastic body shell of the relay is fragile, it is easy to fracture the relay with prying or pliers. They do pull straight up and out, how you do that without damaging anything is the challenge.

    ...
    This is what a relay looks like when you try to use long needlenose pliers to simply pull it out

    One side of the relay body was just marred, the other side I inadvertently crushed the thin plastic shell. A thin layer of silicone to seal the hole resulted in a non-working relay. Replaced with a new relay...

    So yes, the relays just pull out. How to do so without damage, I would like to know.





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    Last edited by K447; 04-28-2019 at 01:16 PM.

  7. #15
    im not good with diagrams per se, but are any of these pics of the harness up front? I need power and switch for a boost gauge. Thanks !!

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