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  1. #1
    Spooling's Avatar
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    2011 Kawasaki Ultra-LX - Cooling Issue

    So my riding buddy has a 2011 Ultra-LX (NA) and has been reporting that his ski's "pisser" does not flow like it used to - especially noticeable at idle.

    I decided to educate myself a bit - with our Soooper-Starr Moderator Sean's Thread - namely this info he shared with us all here:

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post2046275

    I started checking hoses, to be certain everything was clean, clear and tight - used some compressed air and all - yet didn't REALLY find anything that stuck-out as an issue - that is until I pulled the hose off of the output cover.

    Look see here:



    I cleaned everything up nicely, and blew some compressed air through the hose to be certain it was clear - and re-assembled.

    I am MOST certain his issue will be resolved upon our next outing.

    Many Thanks Sean for sharing information such with us all !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  2. #2
    deksea's Avatar
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    Yes, a classic collection point for salt/sediment/corrosion on the 1200 and 1500 engines. Hopefully that nipple cleaned up OK and theres plenty of meat left on it. Those top nipples tend to melt away in salt environments w/o proper flushing, as mine did. I'm starting to think they are the defacto sacricficial anodes on these engines. If theres crap there, there may be some in the cooler, too, which could also contribute to your low flow at idle. The other thought that may come to mind is what the bottom nipple looks like on that cover, given what we now know about the top nipple. I'm assuming this is a saltwater ski where the owner may not have been as religious about flushing as perhaps he should have been. Unless this is a very high hour ski, IMHO, I'm having difficulty understanding how all that stuff would accumulate there if proper flushing was done after every run, even in an ocean operating environment. Perhaps its time to give your buddy your best pitch on the virtues of flushing.I'll bet that new 15F gets the spa treatment every time.


  3. #3
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Looks pretty thin. I would flush it on hose w/some Dawn (2-3ozs) in the hose and let it idle for a while to flush it. Gotta get it warm to melt and flow that salt out.
    If the output cover goes south because not enough meat or collapses let me know I have one for you.

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  5. #4
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deksea View Post
    as mine did.... may be some in the cooler, too, which could also contribute to your low flow at idle. The other thought that may come to mind is what the bottom nipple looks like on that cover, given what we now know about the top nipple.
    -------------------------------
    I remember reading your thread and seeing what happened to the oil cooler. I do not think this engine is in any condition so as to compare with what you "inherited" and shared such findings with us all.

    Bottom Nipple, well, I never even saw there was another on the output cover - until you stated such. As a result, I removed the "Protective Cover" over the output shaft coupler and look see what I found:



    I got a mirror out and looked to see if it was blocked - and it was clear. I cleaned it up and re-assembled accordingly.

    Thanks for advising me there was yet another nipple to be checked on that output cover.

    I am most certain I "got-it" and it should be flowing freely.

    Rod - thanks for the offer on the output cover. I am not so certain I am gonna offer to replace that anytime soon - as the engines gotta be lifted to accomplish that - and I am thinking his stuff should be fine - for now anyways. Also, thanks for the info about the Liquid Dawn. Any special reason for the Dawn Brand C17H35COONa vs. say Palmolive? I'm kinda "fond" of the Palmolive sauce - as it's "almost" Kawasaki Green in color

    Many Thanks !!!

    Ed
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  6. #5
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    They use Dawn to clean birds up from oil spills lol. (true)
    No real reason other than I was told it worked as well as salt-away. After a couple of tear-downs I have to say it is true.
    Madge uses Palmolive on her hands - Dawn comes in green also but the stock blue seems to work best.


  7. #6
    CJ River Rider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooling View Post
    -------------------------------
    I remember reading your thread and seeing what happened to the oil cooler. I do not think this engine is in any condition so as to compare with what you "inherited" and shared such findings with us all.

    Bottom Nipple, well, I never even saw there was another on the output cover - until you stated such. As a result, I removed the "Protective Cover" over the output shaft coupler and look see what I found:



    I got a mirror out and looked to see if it was blocked - and it was clear. I cleaned it up and re-assembled accordingly.

    Thanks for advising me there was yet another nipple to be checked on that output cover.

    I am most certain I "got-it" and it should be flowing freely.

    Rod - thanks for the offer on the output cover. I am not so certain I am gonna offer to replace that anytime soon - as the engines gotta be lifted to accomplish that - and I am thinking his stuff should be fine - for now anyways. Also, thanks for the info about the Liquid Dawn. Any special reason for the Dawn Brand C17H35COONa vs. say Palmolive? I'm kinda "fond" of the Palmolive sauce - as it's "almost" Kawasaki Green in color

    Many Thanks !!!

    Ed
    I'm having the top nipple corrosion issue on my 08 15F and am still on the fence whether to replace the coupler or buy the newer Kawi part and drill & tap it in to the existing coupler. I was wondering what my bottom nipple condition's is & glad to see yours is good. Is your top nipple that corroded away, I can't tell from the picture?

    I always flush after every ride whether salt water riding or fresh. The only difference is I always use Salt Away on my salt water rides and I haven't experienced any low flow out the pisser.
    Last edited by CJ River Rider; 06-02-2017 at 06:49 AM.


  8. #7
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJ River Rider View Post
    top nipple that corroded away, I can't tell from the picture?
    ----------------------
    In order to change that Output Cover on the back of the engine - the engine needs to be "lifted" to disconnect from the driveshaft coupler. Hence base your decision on either "repair or replace" against this fact.

    His top port was the one with excessive corrosion - and I didn't even know there was a 2nd port until "deksea" mentioned it in his reply.

    Hence, I removed the plastic driveshaft cover (2-10mm bolts) and there she be. I expected worse condition on that lower port - yet such was not the case as it was actually pretty decent looking.

    Lastly, Rod - Concerning Madge - well she's all "washed-up" by now - cause you know the suds, "Last and Last"

  9. #8
    deksea's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJ River Rider View Post
    I'm having the top nipple corrosion issue on my 08 15F and am still on the fence whether to replace the coupler or buy the newer Kawi part and drill & tap it in to the existing coupler.

    Someone with more experience on your question may be able to give you more insight than I have, but having done BOTH options here, I'll give you my opinion from my experience, which I think is halfway decent.

    For starters, just because the nipple is a bit corroded doesn't mean you have to replace it. Do a very close assessment of its condition. If it has actually got to the point where it is just crumbling away inside to hose connection or getting close to doing that, that's an emergency that you have to deal with promptly, but if there is still good solid metal there even if there is corrosion, I'd clean it up, treat it with something to inhibit any more corrosion, and go from there. Now if the nipple is falling apart on you, you definitely need to repair or replace. If that nipple fails on you while underway you will get a huge amount of water pumped into the engine compartment in short order, and possibly overheat the exhaust manifold and engine, and maybe even wreak havoc with some of your electronics. You could also wind up ingesting some of that water into the engine through the intake. Not good on multiple levels. Also once you are shut down, if you don't have a means to stop the inflow of water after the nipple fails (that nipple is below the waterline) you could wind up fully swamping your ski.


    Long term solution, IMHO - Replace the cover with a good one. This will give you a chance to clean out all the junk that has accumulated in the cover cooling passages as an added benefit, and when you are done, you'll be good as new and not have to worry about issues with this component for many years. There are plenty of really nice fresh water covers available out there, and the one Rod has in his post above is an excellent example. That cover is perfect. The bad news is that you cant do it with the engine in place. However, the problem with drilling and tapping the existing cover is that its tricky to do properly with the engine in place. You're operating in very close quarters with very tight dimensional constraints on the cover itself. Easy to damage the cover or other components. Not impossible to do properly, but if you have little skill or experience with this kind of work, I don't recommend it as your first project of this type. In addition, putting in a new nipple assumes the old one is completely shot, so you're not drilling and tapping the existing nipple, you're drilling and tapping the cover itself at the point where the old nipple meets the base of the cover casting. Just an assumption on my part, but I think if you were to take one of those new Kawi screw-in nipples and place it at the base of that cover where you need to install it, you will discover that the dimensions of the hole you will have to drill and tap for that nipple is equal to or exceeds the width of the cover at the mounting point. If correct, what this means is two things:

    1. You cant use one of those new Kawi nipples as a fix here.
    2. The nipple you will be forced to use will have an ID that is significantly smaller than the ID of the original nipple casting.

    The bottom line here is that if you go with the repair option rather than replacement, you're almost guaranteed to wind up with restricted cooling flow through your cooling system at this point. The cooling systems on these skis have sufficient capacity such that they will continue to perform fairly well even if partially clogged, but I don't like the idea of actually creating restrictions in the cooling system. That's just looking for trouble. The other issue with this option is that if its done improperly, you could wind up having the new nipple flow very poorly and/or blow out on you and flood the ski anyway. Nothing is going to work as well or as reliably as an original replacement part, generally speaking, and that's the way I'd go as a permanent fix.

    In my case, I drilled and tapped the cover as a short term fix. I think I wound up with a flow reduction of at least 20%. The ski over heated, but only because there were serious issues with salt and sediment clogging elsewhere in the system. The ski ran nice and cool after I addressed the other clogging issues - until the head warped on me later in the season from the prior overheating! That forced me to pull the engine anyway and so the stator cover and few other components were replaced while I had the engine out. The ski is as good as new now with the replacement cover. Glad I did it.



    Dave
    Last edited by deksea; 06-06-2017 at 10:18 AM.


  10. #9

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    I'm curious to see what mine looks like. I ride in lots of salt water, although once I get close to my ramp it's mostly fresh. And I do salt away on every ride, I bet it's still pretty crusty in there, although I hope/doubt it's that bad..

  11. #10
    deksea's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rescue1 View Post
    I'm curious to see what mine looks like. I ride in lots of salt water, although once I get close to my ramp it's mostly fresh. And I do salt away on every ride, I bet it's still pretty crusty in there, although I hope/doubt it's that bad..
    I'd be interested in seeing that, also. Although based on what you describe here with that nice automatic freshwater flush at the end of the ride and then the care with which you de-salt the ski afterwards, I'm guessing your internals, including the nipples, are relatively clean and have fairly little surface corrosion. I don't think the example we're seeing above from Ed is from a ski whose owner is all that religious about flushing. Over time, I think the extra effort that someone like you puts into this aspect of good maintenance really pays off.

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