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  1. #1

    Carbon seal and engine alignment

    Hey guys first time posting on this forum so I hope I posed this in the right spot. I have a 2006 RXP and last season I had to do some work on it that involved me having the engine mounts unbolted and I didn't know you have to check the engine alignment after doing a job like that I would assume my engine is out of alignment because the carbon seal is not perfectly centered on the metal piece(I don't know what it is called) and water is leaking in when I drive. Would you guys assume that this means my engine is out of alignment and I need to have it checked and shimmed?


  2. #2
    ptscon's Avatar
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    Yeap, if you unbolted the engine mounts it's a good bet the engine is out of alignment especially if water is getting in through the carbon seal.

    It won't always be 100% squared with the metal top hat, due to design, but it should not allow water in.

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  4. #3
    You can do a cheater engine alignment by loosening all three mount bolts , starting engine and lightly rev a few times. Engine wants to center on drive shaft. Get that sorted out or that carbon ring will be least of your troubles.

  5. #4
    Thanks for the reply. Do you recommend that I take it to a dealer and have it fixed but have my wallet raped at the same time or buy the tool and do it my self?

  6. #5
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Get a shop manual at www.brpmanuals.com, use the proper tools and do this very critical job correctly! The engine alignment consists of left-right, up-down, and fore-aft to get it right.....don't half ass this or you will continue to have issues and potentially sink your ski. It is your choice........

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    connorrxp's Avatar
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    How do you guys make sure the fore-aft is all good? Specifically if you use the brand new style hat

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    ptscon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by connorrxp View Post
    How do you guys make sure the fore-aft is all good? Specifically if you use the brand new style hat
    You do it with nothing installed, you mark the alignment tool at specific distance with two lines. You insert it as far as it will go, now you check if lines got covered at the pump end, if you only see one line than it's good. If you see two it's too far back, if you see none it's too far forward.

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    connorrxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ptscon View Post
    You do it with nothing installed, you mark the alignment tool at specific distance with two lines. You insert it as far as it will go, now you check if lines got covered at the pump end, if you only see one line than it's good. If you see two it's too far back, if you see none it's too far forward.
    Ohhhhh ok I got it.. my shit still isn't together yet, not sure if I'll have time to come up so I might have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealership and get it aligned.

  10. #9
    Fore and aft is unlikely an issue since rear mounts are slotted left and right only. Ideally you buy the $ 150 alighnment tool. SbT has a neat rental program for like 30 bucks. 4tec is a beotch because you cant see the drive shaft tool going into pto . Need to remove seal hose clamp off back of mtr. 6 ounces of oil will fall out. Fast tech can pull pump, align mtr, reassemble pump in 2hrs flat.

  11. #10
    ptscon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seadoodoc View Post
    Fore and aft is unlikely an issue since rear mounts are slotted left and right only. Ideally you buy the $ 150 alighnment tool. SbT has a neat rental program for like 30 bucks. 4tec is a beotch because you cant see the drive shaft tool going into pto . Need to remove seal hose clamp off back of mtr. 6 ounces of oil will fall out. Fast tech can pull pump, align mtr, reassemble pump in 2hrs flat.
    Yeah you have to remove the PTO bellow/boot but you have way too much oil if removing it causes oil to come out. Actually, if that was the case oil would come out if driveshaft was removed.

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