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  1. #1
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    1100 Raider Rear Seal - back on the water with tuning question

    Very long time since I have been around on here. Joined back when I was 14 and didn't know anything at all, made dumb comments, and apparently couldn't spell from looking at my old threads.

    Anyways, lets get to the issue. Usually this time of the year I spend getting the jetski ready for the season to come. Past few years after the motor was rebuilt in 2013 it has been a pretty painless event. This year I thought the same. Last week I started it up, ran it for a while on the flush kit and everything seemed just as it was at the end of last season. Started right up off the primer kit, fuel pump filled the filter quickly, and it settled into a nice idle.

    I wanted to try and figure out the slight hang in the rpms that was sometimes present towards the end of last season however. So yesterday I pulled the air filter cover and metal screens to take a peak down the carb throats to see if any dribbling was occurring. Pump the primer a few times, hit the starter, it catches and instantly goes into lean runaway. Pulled the kill switch quickly and already knew what to look for since this happened back in 2008 on this ski.

    Found the rear seal to be pushed up against the coupler. So plan to order OEM replacement seals, gaskets, and 1211 sealer. Will go through the cylinders to check for any damage while I am there. Will also open up the carbs for a inspection.

    Wanted to start this thread because in searching I have found mixed answers to direction of seals. Apparently there was a change-order/revision and the manuals show it incorrectly? Also, I should put a little bit of the 1211 sealer on the lip of the seal channel and some marine grease on crank sealing surface correct?

    Its been 9 years since I have split the cases, so I don't want to assume I remember it all. Going to get the motor yanked out hopefully in the next few weeks. Then I can make my parts order. Cherry picker is at my fathers house and currently don't have a open bay in the shop plus he is on vacation for a week. I can go ahead and yank the carbs at my house and go through them however. Glad I found this issue now instead of on a day I wanted to take the ski out.
    Last edited by raiderteen; 05-30-2017 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Title change

  2. #2

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    Yeh it can be confusing which order they go in, there's a manual showing them in the wrong way. You would think the seal with the pegs goes on the inside and the pegs space the second outer seal away

    But NO. I made this mistake and the seals lasted 10 hours before blowing out

    The seal with the four raised pegs is the OUTER seal nearest the PTO coupler.

    Fill the lips with marine grease before installing, and smear 1211 around the outer edge of the seals where they sit in the cases. After doing this they shouldn't come out again.

    And i I think it's a myth about them blowing out with backfires too. I've had loads on mine especially when the CDI failed, without blowing seals. They did come out on their own though from fitting incorrectly

  3. #3
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Now that I think about it, and with you saying about 10 hours before yours blew out, I would almost put money that the re-builders who did my crank rebuild/lower end might have messed up those seals. Because between late 2013 and now the jetski honestly hasn't been used but maybe 3-4 tanks ran through it each summer. I doubt it had very many hours on it since the rebuild, I could give a accurate number of hours but the gauge doesn't function anymore.

    With the pegged seal being outside which directions do the pegs face? Is it springs facing out on all seals or facing in?

  4. #4

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    Pegs face out. Have a look at the seals. The one without pegs should be double lipped inside where it sits on the crank. This one goes on first, spring side outwards
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  6. #5

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    The outer seal should have pegs and a single lip on the inside where you grease. This goes on second with the pegs and spring facing out.

    Some seals have four pegs, some have more, but they always face out though.





    Not many images on the internet but found this below, more tabs on this seal but still facing out as it should be
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  7. #6
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Fantastic pictures. Thank you very much! Been a while since I've seen the seals or a close up of it all installed. Once I have the motor pulled I will report back with which direction the current ones were installed. Pretty convinced they were not installed correctly. No other reason for it to blow out so soon.

  8. #7
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Got started on removing the motor last night at my dads garage. Couldn't bring it in to pull it last night because he was painting a body off a trike and had it all setup for that. It is ready to be pulled though so tonight I will be heading back over to pluck the motor out and start going over it in prep. for getting the seals replaced. Going to try and degrease the inside of the hull while its out. Years of grime have been building up on everything. About time it got some attention.

    Once the motor is out I can confirm my order list and hopefully have everything in next week sometime to be put together and buttoned up in time for Memorial Day weekend.

  9. #8
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Wanted to update saying I got the motor back together and ready to be put in. Not going to get out to dads until Sunday to do so. Checked it over and it looked like no damage other then the seals blowing out. Time will tell on that. Monday hoping to take it to the lake for some riding.

    Also, I have a fun project I might be starting. I've got a friend who has a XLT1200 thats sitting with a toast motor. He's been kind of parting it out, not sure what is missing from it. But we got to talking and he was asking if I wanted anything from it. I said I might want to check out the display on it to see if it would fit the raider since mine is broke. After looking over the wiring diagrams for both mine and the XLT I think I can get it to work with some repinning of some connectors. I've read of a GP1200 gauge being made to fit on a raider and I think the XLT is the same dimensions of the GP so might as well try it. Especially if he gives me it for free, or a case of beer lol.

  10. #9
    raiderteen's Avatar
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    Got it back together and running. Enjoyed a fun day yesterday out on the lake. Took a friend on a ride and his sister (neither had been on a jetski before both loved it). It ran good and very strong for the very busy and choppy conditions. When riding two up I never experienced a bog or even when taking off from the very long no wake zone in the cove.

    However when I was out by myself I would experience a bog only when doing 180/360's. It would run strong thru the sharp turn but once the intake grate would get back in the water and the ski hooked it would bog and not have any hole shot. Feather the throttle for a few seconds and it would take off like nothing ever happened.

    It almost acted like it was sucking air in the fuel lines during the high G's and then go to normal after. I did only have about a half tank of fuel at the start of the day so I want to test it again but with a full tank next time I take it out to see if that was the real cause. Otherwise any other ideas? Carbs have had the "update kit" performed. Running 1.5 N/S instead of the 1.2 the upgrade kit came with however due to choke plates being removed in a attempt to drop pop off pressure down some. If I remember correctly I also doubled up on the jet "covers" or check valves, whichever you want to call them.

  11. #10
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    What you are experiencing is g force starvation. The forces keep the carb from feeding fuel during a hard turn to one side (I can't remember which side) It's normal, my 96 raider did it. Group K has a write up on their tech articles page

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