Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 37
  1. #21
    TimeBandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    845
    +1
    175
    UPDATE:

    Able to do a full water-test this past weekend. Knock on wood - flawless !
    Exhaust is sounding a bit drone-like in the lower rpms - but I kinda expected it. Might be in for a thru-hull exhaust mod next . . . Other than that, everything worked. Between also getting a new solas and the 1.8L, this thing has some serious get-up & go! My old FX HO 2005 has a new lease on life.

    Honestly, did not know if the trouble of moving the 1.8 to my old hull would be worth it, but it totally is. FWIW, (and I'm not diss'ing VXR owners), but when I bought the VXR donor, I did take it out on a quick test-ride. Hole-shot was incredibly good - and that was with it's f'ed-up impeller. But was it to harsh to ride on-plane in my Bay with chop conditions. It's just too light and shallow of a hull. Again, speaking the 2012 VXR hulls.
    Now, with the 1.8L in the older heavier FX hull, the hole-shot did take a slight decline, but the flat-out runs are awesome. I'm not getting half as beat-up, even in mild-chop.

    So far so good - time will tell.
    For now, thanks for tuning into this thread - c ya' out on the water.


  2. #22
    TimeBandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    845
    +1
    175
    Status update:
    Just spent two hours fixing all the images in this whole thread ( f'ing Photobucket )

    Anyway, while I'm here, I can report that in just a little over two months & 20+ hrs more on the clocks the engine transplant has been working really well. The only real major thing I have done is going with a complete DIY thru-hull exhaust system { link }, which includes a custom-built baffle chamber (pwc muffler of sorts) for added noise cancellation. Sounds really good at idle, yet tamed-down at speed.
    Last edited by TimeBandit; 08-30-2017 at 07:45 PM. Reason: added link

  3. #23
    Interested to see the exhaust setup. Also can you give more info on your battery and voltage regulator. Been doing lot of reading on voltage regulators since you mentioned it.

  4. #24
    TimeBandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    845
    +1
    175
    I added a link in my post above to the another thread on the exhaust system.

    As far as the Regulator swap, it is similar to the swap I did a year ago on my old MR1 engine { link here }. The only real difference that I had to deal with, was that the 1.8L regulators are water-cooled?? WTF? Yeah, instead of shit-canning the scorching-hot SCR reg for the cooler running MOSFET, they decided to just throw water at the problem – literally.

    Well, since I could not find a MOSFET having this water-jacket - oh, that’s right, a MOSFET wouldn't need one since they operation cool to the touch - I will be converting back to an air-cooled regulator. This meant dealing with that coolant path.

    So I removed that OEM reg. After examining the reg's water-jacket, I see that it is just a union of three coolant hoses. Basically, a portion of the pre-heated coolant from the exhaust manifold jacket is routed through the regulator on its way to the water box for wet-exhaust mixing. Oh, and for those curious, that third hose leading back to the side engine manifold, simply provides a path for back-drainage. Simplest and safest thing, is to just keep things the way they were designed, so I found a brass PEX “T” in my junk-drawer that did the job perfectly (see below). This T will preserve the OEM coolant routing, while I find a new home to mount my air-cooled MOSFET.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170830_194053_web.jpg 
Views:	81 
Size:	40.5 KB 
ID:	420467
    { Brass "T" connector replacing reg water-jacket }

    The MOSFET I chose was again the Shindengen FH012AA - very commonly found as an OEM part on many Japanese sport bikes :

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Spectacle.T12849.jpg 
Views:	63 
Size:	12.7 KB 
ID:	420468
    { classic FH012AA mosfet-based shunt regulator }

    Another choice being the FH020AA. You’ll just need to browse the online fiche to find which bikes have them, as equally other bikes have the SCR-based regs. Usually the part #'s with "FH" are the better mosfets, while the "SH" are the SCR ones. You can source these from OEM part suppliers, ebay, and elsewhere. Just note there are a ton of “clones” now on the market. I hear these work fine, but I also hear they don’t - to each his own.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170830_193741_web.jpg 
Views:	62 
Size:	99.5 KB 
ID:	420469
    { butchered OEM (scr) regulator }

    Ok, so after praying to the regulator-Gods for forgiveness, I got the courage to ruin a perfectly good oem SCR regulator, aka snipped the wire-harness from it. These things essentially permit large current bypassing, so the less connectors in the system the better, so I stripped & tinned the wires from this harness and directly soldered them to my new FH012AA. Cutting-back the plastic connector housings on the reg, I was able to access the blade-shaped terminals. Note: you will need one of them 100W gun solder irons to do this, as there is a lot of heat-sinking at play. Once the oem reg harness was attached to my FH012AA, the rest is play-n-play.

    The FH012AA is performing very well. Have over 25+ hours to date, it keeps my charge-voltage solid and stable at 14.4v - even at idle RPMs, which is greatly helpful being that I have dual LiFePO4 packs on this ski.

  5. #25
    TimeBandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    845
    +1
    175
    Quote Originally Posted by slociviccoupe View Post
    Interested to see the exhaust setup. Also can you give more info on your battery and voltage regulator. Been doing lot of reading on voltage regulators since you mentioned it.
    slociviccoupe,
    I started a separate thread on the exhaust setup. The exhaust works fantastic! Allows me the through-hull free-flow, while not loud at full-cruise speeds. Idle still sounds mean. Here's the link:

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=264964



    On to the current dual-batt setup . . .

    Dual Battery configuration

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20180128_181246_web.jpg 
Views:	391 
Size:	115.8 KB 
ID:	426937

    So, to stem-off of the above MOSFET upgrade to the charging system, I run dual lithium "Iron" (LiFePO4) packs. Iron is the most stable and safe for vehicle-used. I mounted the packs high off the bilge, on-top the stbd-side hump (on old FX's). For reference, you can see where the OEM batt is usually mounted. I round the ground leads for each batt directly to the engine ground-block (two black cables). The Red (pos) from each batt go to a selector-switch (make-before-break contacts). I never operationally run on "both", as this is not safe if ever one batt became unstable or grounded, etc.... It's all about habit and routine, so I'll select batt 1 or 2 based on it being an odd or even calendar day, and stay on the batt the whole time. The other batt is simply my standby / backup. Being that I could be adrift hours at a time, with GPS, sounder, RF radio, and maybe FM radio playing (aka fishing), I simply need some insurance as to not be in a situation without enough cranking amps, and this is my main reason for the dual batt setup.

  6. #26
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    40,385
    +1
    1,877
    Quote Originally Posted by TimeBandit View Post
    ... the current dual-batt setup . . .

    Dual Battery configuration



    ... I mounted the packs ... on-top the stbd-side hump (on old FX's). ... I round the ground leads for each batt directly to the engine ground-block (two black cables).

    The Red (pos) from each batt go to a selector-switch (make-before-break contacts). ...
    From a safety perspective, consider rotating one of the batteries so the positive terminals on one battery are not so close to the negative terminals of the other battery. When working near those battery posts with tools, a slipped tool could short between + and ground post, with nasty results.

    I suggest having all the negative posts near each other, and the positive posts and cables as far apart as possible at the outside ends of the array.

    Related comment, consider covering or sleeving all the positive post metal and cable ends. Exposed battery voltage wiring should be minimized. Reduced risk of accidental short circuit.

  7. #27
    TimeBandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    845
    +1
    175
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    From a safety perspective, consider rotating one of the batteries so the positive terminals on one battery are not so close to the negative terminals of the other battery. When working near those battery posts with tools, a slipped tool could short between + and ground post, with nasty results.
    . . .
    Excellent tip & observation! Even with the batt switch in Off, this risk is present due to the dual negative lead tie back at the engine. However, as things are currently, I'll need to replace a lead or two depending on which I choose to flip.

    Edit:
    It has been a while since I posted this post .... but I just wanted to quickly mention that I did ultimately flip one of the packs as K447 suggested, so that the two negative are together.
    Last edited by TimeBandit; 05-23-2018 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Update on flipping

  8. #28
    dixon0001's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    north east uk (hartlepool)
    Posts
    560
    +1
    25
    Hi timebandit.

    Been a while since I've seen this thread . I've only managed to put about 10 hours on my conversion since I got it finished . I've gone down the rout of putting r3 ecu on and bigger wheel and testing props and prop pitched ect hopefully this year il get a good amount of hours on it . I've had new mats and seat cover on just eating for some decals now to make it stand out

  9. #29
    Just curious, what went wrong with your old MR-1 motor?

  10. #30
    TimeBandit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Tampa Bay
    Posts
    845
    +1
    175
    Technically nothing went wrong with 'my' MR-1. . . more accurately the previous owner's. It was rusted seize, so sunk, towed, who knows. I got this craft for the huul. After 3 failed attempts in a row with aftermarket 'Premium' MR-1 engines, I threw my hands in the air and went on the hunt for a OEM MR-1. I wasn't satisfied with the cost/quality of mr1s, yet found a great deal on a 1.8. Rest is history.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Engine swap from 800 to 1200
    By joaqslam in forum Yamaha Open Discussion
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-06-2017, 07:06 PM
  2. FS - Parts Yamaha MR1 HO engine complete with 150 hours
    By need4pwr in forum Yamaha Classifieds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-28-2015, 09:13 AM
  3. FX HO 06 Engine breakdown links to parts or used engine
    By krajar in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-06-2010, 09:51 AM
  4. Engine rebuild advice needed FX HO
    By xRXPMike in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-03-2008, 06:15 AM
  5. 700 to 1200 engine swap???
    By tbrake in forum Yamaha How To & FAQs
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-01-2008, 03:26 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •