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  1. #1

    SC Rebuild Questions

    1) The isoflex grease I see in the rebuild videos and mentioned in threads, where exactly is it being used?
    Are the two bearing cages getting it? Are the needle bearings getting it?

    2) I have an old school snap-on full size torque wrench, the needle on the gauge doesn't stop and hold.
    What type torque wrench do you recommend for checking slip? Something reasonably priced

    Thanks


  2. #2

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Pwgsx View Post
    I support the site and Jerry has an amazing reputation for these but I want to do this one myself just for the experience. With that said, do you know the answers to my questions I asked?

  4. #4
    Pwgsx's Avatar
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    No sorry. After pricing the special tools that I needed it was not worth it to me.

  5. #5
    ncdoo's Avatar
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    !. The isoflex grease does not go on the ball bearing, its applied to the needle bearing and the clutch washers.
    2. The preferred torque wrench for checking the slip is a dial type wrench, which sounds like what you have. You will need one preferable that measures in in/lbs.
    Pm me if you have any other questions. I've rebuilt many of them.

  6. #6
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    That grease is pretty much just to keep the needle bearings from falling apart and helps them stick together. If you have an OEM rebuild kit it isn't required. I have done many many of these and never used the isoflex. I oil everything liberally with engine oil and put it together. I actually soak the needle bearings still in the applicator in a small container of engine oil so that the oil gets between all of them. I dip the clutch washers right before i put them in and wipe oil on both sides of the gear. I have never had one fail from not using the overpriced and unnecessary isoflex so far. After it's installed the engine oil takes over and everything is lubed and the first warm up cycle will flush out the isoflex even if it was applied. I have never taken a used supercharger apart and seen any evidence of that grease still in there...

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by ncdoo View Post
    !. The isoflex grease does not go on the ball bearing, its applied to the needle bearing and the clutch washers.
    2. The preferred torque wrench for checking the slip is a dial type wrench, which sounds like what you have. You will need one preferable that measures in in/lbs.
    Pm me if you have any other questions. I've rebuilt many of them.
    Thank you, yes my large Snap-On has a gauge and needle but is Ft Lbs. I have a Kobalt for inch lbs but its the clicker style. Will pick one up.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by wkuadam07 View Post
    That grease is pretty much just to keep the needle bearings from falling apart and helps them stick together. If you have an OEM rebuild kit it isn't required. I have done many many of these and never used the isoflex. I oil everything liberally with engine oil and put it together. I actually soak the needle bearings still in the applicator in a small container of engine oil so that the oil gets between all of them. I dip the clutch washers right before i put them in and wipe oil on both sides of the gear. I have never had one fail from not using the overpriced and unnecessary isoflex so far. After it's installed the engine oil takes over and everything is lubed and the first warm up cycle will flush out the isoflex even if it was applied. I have never taken a used supercharger apart and seen any evidence of that grease still in there...
    Perfect and thank you! I have the newest OEM full rebuild kit. If you torque the fan nut and the rear nut to spec, how often is the slip within the range it should be without needing shims or tweaking?

  9. #9
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ecu1984 View Post
    Perfect and thank you! I have the newest OEM full rebuild kit. If you torque the fan nut and the rear nut to spec, how often is the slip within the range it should be without needing shims or tweaking?
    After you follow all of the directions and "break in" the clutch with 10 turns of slipping and have plenty of oil on everything i usually get 8 out of 10 or so that don't need any adjustment. Depending on what the charger is going into if i want it at the highest end of the spec i sometimes start flipping or swapping washers or adding shims to get on the high side of things. I usually get by flipping washers or swapping out and using old springs washers though, i keep shims on hand just in case, but usually don't have to use any. Only reuse old spring washer IF they are carefully looked over and have no signs of discoloration from heat and no signs of corrosion. If they look sketchy throw them away.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by wkuadam07 View Post
    After you follow all of the directions and "break in" the clutch with 10 turns of slipping and have plenty of oil on everything i usually get 8 out of 10 or so that don't need any adjustment. Depending on what the charger is going into if i want it at the highest end of the spec i sometimes start flipping or swapping washers or adding shims to get on the high side of things. I usually get by flipping washers or swapping out and using old springs washers though, i keep shims on hand just in case, but usually don't have to use any. Only reuse old spring washer IF they are carefully looked over and have no signs of discoloration from heat and no signs of corrosion. If they look sketchy throw them away.
    Good info, it's a stock 215 that my wife and I just cruise around on, I also do a little fishing from them.

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