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  1. #1

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    Going open loop due to head gasket

    So im going openloop in seadoo and im doing DIY and i see rivas kit comes with a reducing washer

    1) what size is hole?
    2) any one found a a better size to drill stock?

    i think i have drilled my stock about 2 sizes bigger

    And is this ok for routing
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  2. #2
    I went through hell and back on this process. Thanks to guys here on forums for helping me out even though I was stubborn . I came out of pump and y adapt to exhaust. Exhaust in and out is stand alone, nothing else conected . The other end of pump Y goes in IC , out IC to engine , Engine out ( thermo stat ) to oil cooler, out boat. Took me some tinkering to finger out restricting the water actually cooled better because slower water flow absorbed heat. Excessive water pressure can rip apart IC and delicate oil cooler. All of my troubles were in exhaust system cooling so isolating this on its own circuit really helped. I used a very sophiscated restricter called a 9mm 1/4 socket. Finally found a use for that size!

  3. +1 by:


  4. #3
    . Maybe this helps.. the second cooling line proved a waste of time. But I have 30 hrs trouble free so far on home built kit.

  5. #4
    ABBOTT's Avatar
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    I did mine similar except water pump line comes from a Y from the IC exit vs strait from pump supply.

    I did:
    - Pump directly to Gracco Strainer.
    - Strainer to IC inlet
    - IC exit to a Y
    - One side of Y going to manifold (and out of manifold over to oil cooler and out of the ski via oil cooler exit just as you have drawn).
    - Other side of Y from IC directly to water pump cover.
    - cylinder head water exit through T-Stat and out of ski just as your drawing shows.

    Only difference on mine is the red line you have to water pump cover (mine comes from a Y in the IC-to-exhaust line after water has already passed through IC). And my flush Y is in my pump-to-strainer line just before the strainer.

    Looks like it might work though. Not sure on flush kit location in drawing passing through 2 "Y's" and how that affects pressure (enough of it) to the exhaust side and possibly too much at water pump cover being that it's so close). If any changes, I'd put the flush Y ahead of the first Y you have (swap places and turn that Y around the other direction).

  6. #5
    Im new to this 4 stroke stuff and learning on the fly so bear with me. The stock 4 tec cooling system operates on open loop for exhaust system. So leave it alone. Y out of pump feeds it. On the pump cooling inlet there is a restrictor, usually yellow rubber coated at pump when you pull apart , about qtr inch hole in normally 3/4 hose inlet. This restricts main cooling to exhaust only. SD actually offers several color coded sized restrictors to taylor cooling needs to climates. Reds and blue sizes I have seen. So Alaska could adapt cooling needs vs Bahamas water temp on exh temp only. So now main cooling input is restricted and y adapting to feed exhaust , IC and engine. I feel leaving exhaust alone like OEM is best. Now for Engine, excessive water pressure is a death blow. That pump makes nearly 60 psi wot. Needs the restriction The money spot on 4tec is 167 F on engine and 195 on oil temp. Feeding engine temp cooling out to oil cooler maintains fairly consistant ratio. Feeding exhaust temp out cooling line into oil cooler can mess with those ratios for inconsitant oil temps. If you study RIVA open loop diagram it makes total sense. At least in my pea brain. 😯

  7. #6
    I must have spent a 100 hrs tinkering on this beater for cooling.

  8. #7
    boost junkie skidoochris's Avatar
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    raw salt water running thru a oil cooler seems to me to be asking for failure
    it was not designed for salt and a failure there would destroy the motor

  9. #8
    connorrxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seadoodoc View Post
    I went through hell and back on this process. Thanks to guys here on forums for helping me out even though I was stubborn . I came out of pump and y adapt to exhaust. Exhaust in and out is stand alone, nothing else conected . The other end of pump Y goes in IC , out IC to engine , Engine out ( thermo stat ) to oil cooler, out boat. Took me some tinkering to finger out restricting the water actually cooled better because slower water flow absorbed heat. Excessive water pressure can rip apart IC and delicate oil cooler. All of my troubles were in exhaust system cooling so isolating this on its own circuit really helped. I used a very sophiscated restricter called a 9mm 1/4 socket. Finally found a use for that size!
    That's exactly how I have mine done up right now, with the exception of 1 line in thru strainer then IC then split to manifold and engine. On my old set up I had a bleed valve right before the IC to get rid of some water pressure cuz of an over cooling problem. Also give those little bolts a tighten on that thermostat mine were loose as hell after a few hours and heat cycles and I lost one in the hull, would have sucked if it blew apart riding.

  10. #9
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    raw salt water running thru a oil cooler seems to me to be asking for failure
    it was not designed for salt and a failure there would destroy the motor
    Have 350hrs to prove other wise. When I rebuilt motor, inside the oil cooler looked brand new, not sure where you got that info.

    Everyone here with open-loop run in salt and this hasn't been an issue here. The issue can come from the outer housing near where the o-rings seat...corrosion on that flat surface will cause external leak is all (into hull). Still, not really a thing...


  11. #10

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    Thanks for reply so from what I get

    Route

    Pump to y to ic and exhaust
    Exhaust to exit
    Ic to motor
    Motor to oil
    Oil out


    Has any one put

    Ic to exhaust and left motor on separate

    And instead of stock out for exhaust got to 3/4 out

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