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  1. #1

    Exclamation Polaris Sltx 1050 Different Issues

    To start out, I want to thank you guys for all being here to provide us Novices to GreenHulk with information we are seeking. Thankyou!

    I come with you today a 1997 Sltx 1050 with a New Coil, Updated stator and ignition. Mag, Cent, PTO have 125,121,125 psi compression. No blinking or flashing red light, or anything on the MFD

    We bought the ski from a guy that had the original ignition system in it with the old style wires and no coil claiming it just needed a new coil as he took it out for another guy. We didn't know it mattered so we bought a new style coil. Ended up also getting the new style coil wires as well as it wasn't the prong style coil. Got it running but with no spark on the PTO cylinder at first. So we did some researching on here and found out that the newer coil wouldn't get the correct communication from the old CDI box if I understand correctly. So we bought an update ignition kit and installed it.(CDI and Stator)
    This is where things start getting tricky, It fired up and would Idle at 3300-3400 rpm with a completely flat throttle response. Nothing what so ever but had spark on all cylinders. Everything was hooked up correctly including eliminating that old little ground wire to the battery. After reading some K447 posts about static timing, I built a Homemade Hall effect testing light tool using a Sylvania 12v rated little bulb and a 9v with the correct wires for testing. I also made a Spark Plug Dial indicator. The weird thing I was having was The hall effect sensor was triggering the light around 2 inches BTDC and turning off around .6" BTDC So I decided to set the MAG cylinder at .24-.26 BTDC and adjusted the H.E.S. to shut the light off right at that moment as I didn't understand why the light didn't just come on and then off at a sharp instant. From there I got the motor to run semi ok with not much throttle response. I then adjusted timing using a timing light and taking that PITA cover on and off 5 times to achieve 18* +/- 2* at 3000rpm. Is that the correct degrees?

    Towards the end of tonight I was running into no spark problems again and the engine not starting. Would get about 11.2v while cranking after charging the battery for 30-45 mins on a 10amp charge. First started with no spark, then spark after letting off of the start button-- to letting the battery sit on the charger again and getting some spark but no fire . Could many of my spark issues and not wanting to fire issues be related to the battery?

    So overall the questions I have in a summarized form are as follows.

    Why does the H.E.S. trigger the light so far BTDC and stay aglow so long?
    is 18* @ 3000 rpm the correct degrees using a timing light through small peek hole?
    Can a Brand new battery solve this intermittent spark, no spark, ok I have some spark again issues or just charge the battery for a bit?
    Should I use the resistor from gray to tan wires or just put the gray and tan wires altogether past the resistor?
    What is causing it to not fire and start after shutting it down and hooking water up to it (not turned on until the engine will start and run)?

    If there is any more information you guys need that I left out, feel free to ask.
    I thank you for reading/skimming/skipping the essay portion of this topic and answering my questions.

  2. #2
    I would also like to ADD this important info, Seller claimed it was a rebuilt motor and the hour gauge only has 1.7 hours on it. The motor is pretty clean as it looks but not entirely sure. Sticker on the crankcase by the flywheel housing has the Polaris numbers on it with the ending a -3 SLt if it matters. Has not run before we bought it and the seller claimed it ran the end of last summer, as well as the battery, was fully charged before we received it.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Australia Vic
    A weak or not fully charged battery has caught many people out. Including myself, 10.6v cranking is the minimum. Charge the battery fully then retry. The spark on release of the start button is a symptom of a weak charge.

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    These batteries have a short life span,especially the cheaper ones.If you need to keep charging it inorder to get spark=you need a new good quality battery.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by casey67 View Post
    These batteries have a short life span,especially the cheaper ones.If you need to keep charging it inorder to get spark=you need a new good quality battery.
    Thanks for the reply guys. This answers my question about the battery. Will be getting a new one today then.

    What about the other three questions?

  6. #6
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    18* @ 3000 rpm is correct. Your other test- I have no idea how many degrees=the size of the trigger magnet.

    Grey wire with spade connecter is for the "limiter" function in case of overheat.
    They use the diode to prevent false limiter. I personally like to keep it as designed.

  7. #7
    Perfect Casey, I appreciate your reply and knowledge! Will get that new battery and change these few little things around and update!

  8. #8

    Angry New Update on the 19 sltx 1050.

    Ok guys, So a little update to the project. Its been a little bit, busy with out of town work, night school and other things like usual!

    We Installed a new Sealed PWC battery. Got spark and it sort of running.

    We got the timing near close 18 Degrees. The ski idles up to 2800-3500 on its own and has a pretty flat throttle response. If I very lightly start feathering it I can bring out a throttle response and at one time did get up to 6k. Got warm so we shut her down and cool off. We are on the hose. Most of the time we can't get it to restart without letting it sit a long while and sometimes won't restart at all.
    I am wondering if it is not getting the fuel it needs and is running lean? Still, has the awful Grey fuel lines that are getting replaced today. Bypassed the fuel selector switch and separator and also took the return and put it into a cup. Only getting a little dribble of fuel back while cranking or running. The Res line has a lot of pressure built up inside it most of the time. Dad really doesn't think the carbs are the culprit as they look to have new gaskets and such and thinks they are a mess to tear apart. (Used to have old Polaris snowmobiles with triples, he dreads them). What advice can you give about tearing into the triples? What to do and not to do?
    For the nonrestart, I read somewhere on here that you have to reroute one of the wires on the CDI box because the CDI thinks it is hot and won't allow a restart. Not getting a Hot message on MFD and no other red lights or anything.
    Other thoughts that could be causing these?

    As always, thanks for the help!

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    If the original gray Tempo fuel hoses are still installed, not only must you replace all the hoses.

    You must also clean out the entire fuel system. Assume the hose goo has gotten into the carbs and even the fuel filter.

    So, new fuel filter.
    Probably a new fuel selector valve.
    Take apart and rebuild the carburetors. Use genuine OEM rebuild kits. Available from

    These engines will not tolerate a fuel system and carbs that are not 100% clean inside.

    If the carbs have not been cleaned internally, there is no work around.

    When running properly the engine RPM should snap to redline with just a blip of the throttle. Especially on the trailer with no water load on the jet pump.

  10. #10
    Perfect I will look into those rebuild kits.

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