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  1. #1

    yamaha xlt1200 not getting gas to #1 cylinder

    I bought a 2003 xlt1200 pv from a friend of mine that only had 67 hours on it. the #3 cylinder oil line popped off and burnt up the cylinder. the ski looks brand new and was freshwater used. I bought the ski for $500 with brand new trailer. the ski has been sitting in a garage for about 4-5 years broke. I took the engine out and took it to the machine shop and had it redone ( crank rebuilt, cylinder bored and all new piston and rings) for $750. I got everything back and got it all put back together with a few upgrades. I did the D plate, Waveeater clips and upgraded couplers, and oil delete kit. Im a junior in mechanical engineering and pretty mechanically inclined so i thought this would be a great project to tackle and learn a little bit about jet skis since i have only owned boats and worked on outboards, but never done anything with jet drive and jet skis. so the problem i have run into is the carbs. I rebuilt all 3 carbs using the mikuni rebuild kits from sbt. most of the carbs looked pretty good, 1 of them had some grime in it but none looked terrible, especially for sitting with gas in them for about 4 years. I have done a lot of reading and this forum is awesome for info. I plan on keeping the ski stock besides the upgrades mentioned above. I have read all about the carb upgrades but just don't know if I'm quite ready to tackle that yet(maybe next summer). so the problem Ive run into..... I got everything back and everything installed and put back together and it wasn't to bad besides the exhaust cost me about 12 beers and 2 hours of cussing to figure out how it goes in. I installed all new hoses on the carbs but left the original fuel lines on the return fuel line and the supply fuel line. the new lines i used are the clear hoses from I used stainless steel hose clamps to install, not crazy about zip ties but i might switch. I rebuild all 3 carbs and did not check the pop off pressure which i probably should have and might wind up having too but, i didn't have a tester or gauge that went that high and since it was such a low hour ski, i decided to reuse the factor springs, needles and needle arms since they all looked great, but i did replace all the gaskets fuel filters and O rings. I did not replace the O rings to the high and low speed adjustments as I was nervous about getting them set back to where they originally are. So i got everything put back together and decided to fire it up on the hose before taking it out to the lake and running it. the problems i have ran into is i don't think #1 cylinder is getting fuel. the hose looked empty from what i could see, and the cylinder was getting a lot hotter than #2 and #3. never got hot enough to do any damage as I did not run it long enough for this to happen, but i cut it off and check the plugs and #3 looked to have a considerably lot more gas and oil on the plugs than #1 and #2. but #2 did not look to bad. the fuel lines all were filled with fuel except the inlet hose running from #2 carb to #1. i cranked it and ran it again a couple hours later and got the same result. I only ran it at idle for about a minute or so this time and then killed it because i don't want to damage it. even this short time of running it scared me #1 cylinder was getting warm when the other two were not. It made me nervous as i really don't want to mess the engine up and have to have it redone again so i checked the compression and its even across all cylinders. I decided to tear it all apart and give it one more try before taking it somewhere and gettting it fixed so i don't mess it up. I ordered new intake gaskets and check valves for carb #2 and #3. took apart carb #3 and everything looked to be in place and good and it had fuel inside the carb, but i just never saw much fuel in the line.(it had about %50 fuel %50 air in the hose from #2 going to #1) and all the other lines were full of gas. I don't know if i might have cracked a fuel line over tighteneing the pule lines or what it could be but some advice would be great. also i did not run the ski long but the accerlator pump and lines never had fuel in there a way to prime it or check it to see if its working correctly. i ordered a new diaphram for it and going to rebuild it before i put the carbs back on, but didnt know how to check and see if its working correctly and if gas is squirting into the cylinders like it should.. I know its a long first post but hoping to get some helpful info from you guys that know a lot more about this stuff than I do. I can try to add some pics later also if anyone is interested

    thanks, taylor

  2. #2
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Bennettsville, SC
    Now is the time to do OsideBill's recipe for success. Also do the fuel return mod. It evens out pressure to all carbs, so if one pump fails the other two will tote the load for the one with the failing pump. The carb mods are pretty easy, the only hard part is drilling out the tamper caps. You must run aftermarket flame arresters with the carb mods. Will give you a little more power also. Not alot, but a little bit. Have you put a d plate in it yet? If not, now is the time. The exhaust on the XLT is a bear to get out. Also think about installing a hole shot kit while the exhaust is out. Rich is making up a couple of kits for me, one for my GPR, and one for my XLT. The carb mods and the hole shot kit are all highly recommended mods for the 66V skis. They greatly improve performance and reliability. Also...use genuine mikuni kits, or a high quality kit like winderosa .There are plenty of 66V owners like myself who are glad to help you get the most out of that engine. Lastly, consider an intake grate and pump shoe seal kit, and a solas concord 12/18 impeller for that ski. Greatly reduces cavitation. Good luck with it! Jack Ivey

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