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  1. #1
    hammer5312's Avatar
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    Adding a "Rudder"

    I realize most you on this site are about speed or jumping or turning quick.
    Do any of you have the Thrust vectoring plates? Either Cobrajet Steering or Thrust Vector?

    Has anyone ever thought about adding some sort rudder?
    Or attaching some sort of rudder to the steering nozzle?

    I know, I can hear it now.....if I want a rudder get an outboard!!

    I just would like a little better slow speed steering. I was thinking about having a buddy weld a vertical plate to a ring of Aluminum. Then attach the ring to end of the steering nozzle by hose clamps, so the plate extend below the steering nozzle about six inches.
    I'm putting a round edge on the front edge and a knife edge on the back. Trying to keep things as smooth as possible.
    About the only thing that pops into my mind is that if I do go over something submerged and solid, in all likelihood it would shear off the steering nozzle.

    Anyways, I'm curious what the consensus might be. Or should I just buy a commercial unit like either Cobrajet Steering or Thrust Vector?


  2. #2
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    I have a 14' Challenger in which I like to cruise slowly. I want a rudder so I don't constantly have to correct the boat. Would be nice if it just maintained course. My idea is to add rudders that are on a spring, which deploy at low speed and rise up when on plane, that way they are less likely to rip off in the event of a collision with something. Haven't even begun drafting the plans, but I'm kicking the idea around in my head

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  4. #4
    hammer5312's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    I know...
    I found them earlier. I finally contacted him, since I didn't see the SUV as one of the models...
    Its a special order
    "That is a P W C I can usually hand make a set for that application it usually runs around $129"

    So I'm pretty sure that's a better deal than my buddy fabricating something.

  5. #5

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    Something like this...http://m.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Kawasaki-...id%253A6...had one on my VXR in the 1990s...think I paid less then $20.00...worked good.

  6. #6
    hammer5312's Avatar
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    Yeah, Something like that!! I'm surprised that there aren't more of something like that out on the market.
    Oh well.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    There are a number of people on the Yamaha boat site, yamahajetboaters.com that have them. Some people swear by them, some say they don't do anything. My advice would be to learn how to drive your SUV without them. It's not hard, but it will take an hour or two of practice. At least that boat has reverse! Many of my PWCs didn't have that. You had to learn to make circles to slow down before hitting the trailer.

  8. #8
    TimeBandit's Avatar
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    Not a bad idea - if I might weigh-in on this - especially for those of us in the fishing genre. For example, I'd like to be able to use fixed trolling motor just for thrust, yet use the handle bars to steer. And for the older skis, I see this also as a crude OTS (off-throttle steering) benefit.

    But IDoSeaDoo has got the right mindset here with suggesting the rudder appendage quasi spring-tolerant. The idea in allowing the rudder to protrude past the ride-plate, yet still pivot up & out of the way. Obviously, this would insure against bottoming-out in the shallows, but I'd also advocate that it also pivot up at a given/set speed threshold, as I don't feel the nozzle is engineered to have added forces applied from an appendage sticking into a fast moving water column (up on plane at speed), especially if one has trim.

    As far as engineering - I haven't put pen to paper either - but instead of a single inverted shark-fin directly underneath the steering nozzle, how about dual fins offset on either side of the nozzle. This would allow the fins to pivot up and not into the jet-stream. Furthermore, if you have the plastic steering nozzle, I'd highly suggest going with the cast aluminum. An alternative design might be a ride-plate mounted single rudder fin offset to one side, and use linkage to the nozzle. In either case, should also have a spring-override which essentially flips the rudder up (aka operator disabled).

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