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  1. #1

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    RXPX300---Riva stage 2 8500 tune reliabilty?

    Looking at the tune options, Riva offers a stage 2 with exactly the mods im looking to do. Intake, and IMUK set for 8500. On a stock ski with just these mods, how reliable is this setup? Anything I should worry about? Flywheel bolts, headstuds, retainers? I plan to eventually do those things at some point, but juggling this and my car built, Id rather not dive myself into debt.


  2. #2
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snyper View Post
    Looking at the tune options, Riva offers a stage 2 with exactly the mods im looking to do. Intake, and IMUK set for 8500. On a stock ski with just these mods, how reliable is this setup? Anything I should worry about? Flywheel bolts, headstuds, retainers? I plan to eventually do those things at some point, but juggling this and my car built, Id rather not dive myself into debt.
    Then wait till ready to do it all. In the meantime, the SCOM is only $200 and quick and easy...

    IMO: First mods should be flywheel bolts and retainers (unless sticking SCOM).

    You can do it now as a preventative (insurance) or later as a rebuild.

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  4. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanfish View Post
    Then wait till ready to do it all. In the meantime, the SCOM is only $200 and quick and easy...

    IMO: First mods should be flywheel bolts and retainers (unless sticking SCOM).

    You can do it now as a preventative (insurance) or later as a rebuild.
    Retainers over the entire spring kit? I know its double the price, but do it once, do it right. If just the retainers would work reliably, I don't mind using them alone. Flywheel bolts should be in before I even take delivery of the ski. I'm having the dealership do it so the warranty will remain.

  5. #4
    I'm with sanfish . I've built a turbo 260 and ran a few other setups and you could end up "diving into debt " . Brp used the same flywheel bolts that sucked on the 260s and now use them for the 300 . Imo anything more than a scom if riddin hard is taking a risk and that's up to you . With that said I have a scom for my 300 that I'm installing tomorrow . Turn key no chance at losing warranty or fearing my stock flywheel bolts will break . You could do a few simple bolt ons like air , exhaust mods and even do a jims OL plate which Evan proved to be 5mph gain and dam near have a 81ish mph ski that's running a stock conservative tune . My 2c

  6. #5

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    I already purchased the Maptuner. It has the option for bone stock with speed delete and another for the speed delete and just an intake. The stage 2 with the higher RPMs includes the IMUK. I can most likely start with the intake and speed delete and once I'm ready to do springs, go with the IMUK. I'm going to talk to my dealer tomorrow and get the labor price on the flywheel bolt job. If it's crazy expensive, I'll just do it myself. The ARP bolts are very cheap. I'm trying to keep this simple and not turn it into a nightmare. I want fun and reliable. I've read just about every post on the new 300s so I'm going to start with the common things. Bolts, stainer, and catch can will be on it before it ever sees the water.

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snyper View Post
    I already purchased the Maptuner. It has the option for bone stock with speed delete and another for the speed delete and just an intake. The stage 2 with the higher RPMs includes the IMUK. I can most likely start with the intake and speed delete and once I'm ready to do springs, go with the IMUK. I'm going to talk to my dealer tomorrow and get the labor price on the flywheel bolt job. If it's crazy expensive, I'll just do it myself. The ARP bolts are very cheap. I'm trying to keep this simple and not turn it into a nightmare. I want fun and reliable. I've read just about every post on the new 300s so I'm going to start with the common things. Bolts, stainer, and catch can will be on it before it ever sees the water.
    Unless you have extreme confidence in your dealer don't let them touch your ski If I where you since you're just getting started with a new ski yet no stranger to go fast toys. Do the catch can/ get your oil level perfect and get the first 10-20 hours under your belt stock. Do an oil change, new plugs and if everything is good for that period of time flash to 8300 no limiters and enjoy. Once you get bored of that go to 8500 (add flywheel bolts/retainers). Some say it's fine to run that hard but I wouldn't at least not for long. These engines have historically been pretty damn bullet proof except other than the self inflicted wounds. You will need to spend time optimizing your impeller to hit your target RPM. Lot's of speed in getting the impeller setup just right.

  8. #7
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snyper View Post
    Retainers over the entire spring kit?
    I ride ocean and in sloppy conditions, having springs help keep valves connected with cam. But understand that adding springs on a mild setup will drop RPM a little due to added load. When I first starting to mod my ski I did springs/retainers very early on and IIRC, I think I lost 120-170rpm right away and felt the added load from dig. But I knew I was going to be adding more mods and ride ocean so like the control the springs provide.

    Stay mild and ride calm water, stick with just retainers. Everything else, do both!

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  10. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanfish View Post
    I ride ocean and in sloppy conditions, having springs help keep valves connected with cam. But understand that adding springs on a mild setup will drop RPM a little due to added load. When I first starting to mod my ski I did springs/retainers very early on and IIRC, I think I lost 120-170rpm right away and felt the added load from dig. But I knew I was going to be adding more mods and ride ocean so like the control the springs provide.

    Stay mild and ride calm water, stick with just retainers. Everything else, do both!
    Good idea. I didn't see any numbers on seat pressure/spring pressure. I'll start with retainers. I'm sure they would sell the springs separate if I already purchased the retainers.

  11. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanfish View Post
    I ride ocean and in sloppy conditions, having springs help keep valves connected with cam. But understand that adding springs on a mild setup will drop RPM a little due to added load. When I first starting to mod my ski I did springs/retainers very early on and IIRC, I think I lost 120-170rpm right away and felt the added load from dig. But I knew I was going to be adding more mods and ride ocean so like the control the springs provide.

    Stay mild and ride calm water, stick with just retainers. Everything else, do both!
    I don't know... I had slow91 rebuild/refresh a stock 2012 260 block back to stock specs and put an untouched head with springs and retainers on it and the ski (2014 rxtx 260) I put it on was on the rev limiter 8040 and was faster to 45 than a tx300. Maybe Slow91 is just that good...but I don't feel like the spring/restainers hurt my performance at all. The only thing that had been done was a stock prop just cleaned up...not repitched. It was wicked quick out of the hole.

  12. #10
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    Snyper, just don't think I'm agains't doing springs because I'm not and prefer to do both. Just don't see a point to shooting for the moon if all you plan to do it get in orbit. So be real with yourself and figure out if you are going to do just a base tune or kick it up a notch. Ideally, you only need to do the work once.

    DinoMite, I did back to back testing (and obviously logging)....in very calm fresh water mind you.

    EDIT: Went and looked up my old data logs and found I dropped between 90 and 110 RPM on a base 8375 tune with CAI from doing springs (not 120-170 as I posted above).
    Last edited by Sanfish; 03-31-2017 at 08:51 AM.

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