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  1. #11
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Btw manual says "trickle out the bypass outlet "and btw there's no valve as in opening and closing on that hose ,maybe you should take one apart..

    Please justify how my hose flush streams slowly out of the outlet and another flush water line comes out the strong then ?.. no kinks in hose line either..

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Ybnvs2 View Post
    Correct .. the pisser valve on the outside right hand side of the ski is called the eshaust bypass valve/outlet = pisser hole/rubber grommet on the throttle trigger side of the ski .. it's not easy to find something that will go into the entire length of that hose therefore .. forcing air into it while water is coming out of it is a simple fix .. u could have the smallest partical of anything in there and since forcing water out of it doesn't always seem to help .. forcing air into the opposite direction while the water is coming out is always an instant fix .. blow the air into it a few times for 5 secs each time using a wand attachment on the end of the air nozzle .. no less then 90 lbs no more 120 lbs while the water is coming out will cure this issue every time .. do this on a regular basis when flushing
    Thanks for the instructions. Will let you know how it goes after this weekend's ride!

  3. #13
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    90=120 psi air? WTF?
    KU Just put what ever you use on your hose to clean with and start the ski, start the water, and let it idle for 5-10 minutes.
    I put about 3 oz's of blue liquid Dawn down my empty hose then hook it up and run it thru. I put my salty riding stuff in the storage container I keep it in and after a moment (salt water out) I put this under the cone and catch the nice warm water/dawn in this and let it run until no more suds and a couple more minutes.
    Then water off, wait until no more water coming out and blip the throttle a few times to blow out the water box. Once I'm home I blip it a few more to make sure all water is out.
    Dawn is fine for the I/C also.
    I have used air to clear a blockage - 10psi. That air has to go some where at 120 your looking at causing issues. But as a needed service item - 5 of my ski's have NEVER needed this and the one that did - 550 - 2 smoker. Had a little bit of lake grass up in there. No, we did not dry it and smoke it. lol
    I use Dawn because it works and I used to use $$$Salt-A-Way$$$ and tearing down motor's with 100's of good reliable Kawi fun hours did not notice 1 iota of difference in build-up or any blocked passages.
    Good luck and have fun on your 310.

    Dave did you need a sweat shirt? What size? (They don't come in Old or Middle Age....lol)

  4. #14
    I didn't say anything about any valve .. there is no valve .. I've replaced this hose on ski's b4 bcuz some people prefer to pay for stuff that's simply not necessary .. and 90 to 120 lbs of air is what my dealership uses .. I've already used this method on maybe 2 or 3 dozen 250 260 300. & 310's .. instant fix every time .. u will know when it fixes it bcuz water will come out as it should .. 10 lbs of air u could blow through u mouth .. that won't be nearly enough while water is coming out to do anything .. I'm not sure how soap would get something lodged inside the tube to become dislodged but if it works for ya that's awesome

  5. #15
    nicjak's Avatar
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    Wtf ive now read it all. Yes air will help fix it but so does simply removing the hose from the nipple on the manifold and slipping a drill bit or wire in. Running 110psi of air throuhh it increases the chances of blowing the hose off its barbed fittings. Then the next time you ride your ski will fill with water. Mate do it your way but dont push it on other's


  6. #16
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Water Pressure for Flushing

    Let's put this subject to rest as it could be a few reasons why the water trickles out , a blockage of some kind ,water pressure regardless what you think even a kinked hose. The best way for the OP to test is to back up the ski down the ramp into the water with the intake grate submerged and the rear straps still attached same if you were testing for a leak ,start the ski and see how it comes out at idle 1300-1400rpms a small stream should come out after 30 secs of running , if you feather the throttle to 3000-4000 even 5000 RPMs the water will come out fuller and stronger then your ski is fine that's how the Ultra circulates and your ski is being flushed out the best it's gonna be ..

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  8. #17
    I have no idea what this thread is trying to accomplish (could just be me). Is there a problem here? The Flush out process is pretty simple. And if you are riding in clean fresh water, I would argue that you don't even need to do it all! JB

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  10. #18
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KU310R View Post
    Hi,

    While speaking to a friend of mine, he mentioned that it would be useful to install a water pump to increase the flow coming out of the tap while flushing.

    What do you think about this? I always thought that I had decent water pressure to flush my jetski and always did so using salt away. But doubt has crept into my mind after this chat considering that there is just a drizzle coming out of the nozzle at the front. However there will be quite some foaming at the jet pump.

    Can you give me some opinions about this please? Thanks!
    JB a simple question was asked and answered back with some dubious directives.
    The original response to the OP should have been "All I read here sounds normal. No pump is needed".
    It didn't go that way...

  11. #19
    What is the purpose is it a common issue for the bypass to become clogged?


  12. #20
    Pain is fear leaving your body.... rlovebk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyX2 View Post
    What is the purpose is it a common issue for the bypass to become clogged?
    Hi JonnyX2 no it is uncommon.

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