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  1. #1

    Do I have a good pump on my ultra 150 (video included)

    Overall issue here is I can only get 5 to 6k rpms in the water. Full 8k on the trailer. I've looked at nearly every post on here related to this issue and am starting the diagnoses 1 problem at a time. Decided to tackle the carbs first, but I've always been weary of the sound of my pump. Primarily on the trailer. I hear occasional grinding noises and rattling, but every once in awhile the jetski bogs to the point of stall with a intense rattle coming from the pump. Ideally I would have taken a video with the pump on the ski, while running I know. I'll make that if you guys assess this video to be inadequate. As always, thanks for your input!



  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    so what's under the nose cone?

    how many hours on the clock? Engine compression?

    typically a trashed pump will have these symptoms, but your prop looks good ( as far as I can tell)

    pull the nosecone ( a pain in the butt, be prepared) and if it's clean and dry in there you have other issues.

    all those little details help narrow the scope.

  3. #3
    Engine has 200 hours. Inside the cone I found a couple of beads of water but mainly dry. Completely clean and the bearings were well lubed and spun freely. When I bought the ski the previous said he had just had the pump off for work. Not sure if he mentioned anything about bearings. Unable to upload a photo currently (not very mobile friendly!). I'm heading to advance now to replace oil lines. I'll grab compression guage and let you know the results.

  4. #4
    Compression is beautiful. Just had an expert confirm my pump is good. Bogging must be from fuel delivery. On to carbs!

  5. #5
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    Check to see that the slides inside the carbs are opening fully as you accelerate. You can verify this by removing the flame arrestor and watching as you go from idle to WOT. Don't run the ski on the water without the arrestor though. Ultras don't like to be run lean.

    Another thing to check is that the circular base that the flame arrestor mounts to is installed correctly. There is a hole in each base that must be oriented correctly for the CV carbs to function properly.

  6. #6
    sjorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bdesim View Post
    Check to see that the slides inside the carbs are opening fully as you accelerate. You can verify this by removing the flame arrestor and watching as you go from idle to WOT. Don't run the ski on the water without the arrestor though. Ultras don't like to be run lean.

    Another thing to check is that the circular base that the flame arrestor mounts to is installed correctly. There is a hole in each base that must be oriented correctly for the CV carbs to function properly.
    I'm just here to warn you about reving the motor that high on the trailer. Thats really asking for a read failure. Which, btw, could have an effect on the full delivery.

  7. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    You can run the engine on the trailer without the flame arrestor. Since there is no load on the engine, it will tend to run rich, and you're only going to do it for a minute or so. You don't have to hold the throttle wide open or anything, just let it idle on the flush hose and blip the throttle a few times.

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